Darth Vader Lightsaber with Threaded Core

prusaprinters

<p>Story Time!</p><p>I was recently given a Disney Legacy light saber, and what struck me was that is had weight. It felt like a "real thing" vs the 3D printed models I had done in the past. This is my solution to making a 3D printed light saber that feels like it exists in the world as a real object.</p><p>My original plan was to remix the wonderful lightsaber model designed by CaseStudyno8 (If you haven't not seen his designs, he is a master! <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/casestudyno8/designs">https://www.thingiverse.com/casestudyno8/designs</a>) and just incorporate a metal bar to make it heavier, but as with any good project, the scope creeped, became a FreeCAD learning experience, and resulted in a 100% from-scratch model based around a 3/4" threaded rod.</p><p>Why a threaded rod you ask? Not only does it provide weight to the saber, but also strength. This is designed to (eventually when I get around to designing an adapter) attach a PVC or broom handle "blade" and be able to survive a decent amount of play.</p><p>The threaded rod I used came from Home Depot (3/4 in. x 12 in. Zinc Threaded Rod). You will need to cut it down a bit..it should be just below flush to the top of the upper core segment (mine is 23 1/2 cm, but your milage may vary).</p><p>This saber is designed more or less off of the ESB hero saber with a couple of minor tweaks to improve printing. I also like using real screws, etc to lend a certain amount of reality to the piece, so the model is designed around that assumption. Gluing is required for a couple of attachments (clamp block and emitter shroud), but generally, the model is completely held together by the threaded rod and assorted hardware. Old hard drives are a great source of small screws if you're looking :)</p><p>Some parts require supports (file name will contain SUPPORT NEEDED). All others should print as is.</p><p>BEFORE YOU START PRINTING ALL THE PARTS: print out the THREAD TEST model and make sure you can thread it onto the rod (should have a small amount of play, but not too much). The threads work from my printer, but if they are too tight or too loose, let me know and I can upload versions with different clearances.</p><p>Also, do not start screwing/gluing things together until after you've cut the rod. The cut will change the starting point of the threads and will make the upper and lower halves no longer line up correctly (experience talking).</p><p>Enjoy!</p>