DDW RONIN 3D PRINTER (HICTOP 3DP-12)

thingiverse

UPDATE 10/24/19This printer is now completed. I will try my best to make an assembling video of it sometime. I tried Cura 4.3 recently, and I decided to stick with Cura 3.6 because it creates smoother lines. DarkDragonWing Website ○ YouTube ○ Facebook ○ Online Store ○ Product Recommendations RONIN 3D PRINTER 24V Bed size 210x270x225mm (XYZ) Integrated lead screw Z stepper motors Filament run out sensor BL-Touch sensor TL-Smoother Auto bed leveling Auto cool down when the heat sink fan fails Auto shutdown after the print is done Ambient temperature monitor Strong 75% infill ABS Parts Spool holder with ball bearings Easy cable chain system Latest video: 3D Printer Modify 3 | HICTOP 3DP-12 This printer is now very stiff, fairy accurate, and has little to no play. However, there is a flaw in this style of 3D printer. With the increasing weight on the Y axis, there will be more ringing artifacts on the print. You can avoid ringing artifacts by printing slower on the skin, 15mm/s or less for this printer, but when the print gets heavier, the ringing artifacts may be more visible. Description Software: Cura Layer Height: 0.2mm Infill Density: 75% Materials: ABS Wall Thickness: 1.2mm, 4mm Top/Bottom Thickness: Same as Wall Thickness Filter Out Tiny Gaps: ☑ or ☐ as you see fit Infill Density 5%, Wall Thickness 1.2mm, Top/Bottom Thickness 1.2mm for this file only: DDW_RN-3DP27_Filament_Holder_50-55mm.stl The only cable carrier file that needs brim: DDW_RN-3DP33_X_Cable_Carrier_4.stl Duplicate these: 2x DDW_RN-3DP22_Z_Nuts_Holder.stl 34x DDW_RN-3DP29_X_Cable_Carrier_Insert.stl 18x DDW_RN-3DP31_X_Cable_Carrier_2.stl 14x DDW_RN-3DP37_Y_Cable_Carrier_Insert.stl 12x DDW_RN-3DP39_Y_Cable_Carrier_2.stl 2x DDW_RN-3DP51_GT2_Belt_Tensioner.stl 2x DDW_RN-3DP52_GT2_Belt_Tensioner_Pusher.stl 12x DDW_RN-3DP43_Frame_Cable_Clip.stl 3x DDW_RN-3DP44_Frame_Cable_Clip_For_Ribbons.stl Here is how to print ABS: Make a box for the printer, and inside the box should be about 60C when printing. Mix 100g of acetone with 1m of 1.75mm ABS filament to make ABS juice in this 12 Oz Clear Jar. Use Foam Poly Brush (Brushes with white/clear plastic inside are best, the ones with black plastic inside will make the ABS juice stick to the bed like super glue!) to apply a thin film of ABS juice to the bed. Wait for the ABS juice to dry and then start printing. After the printing is done, don't open the box. Wait for the bed to cool down to 50C before opening the box and removing the printed part(s) to avoid ABS shrinkage. Must do: Move Z axis frame assembly from 165mm(default) to 155mm. Adjust the stepper motor current on the main board to X=0.8, Y=0.8, Z=1.0V, and E0=0.8V. Watch how to adjust the current here. After updating firmware, go to Control, Restore settings, and then Store memory. Use some foam from the foam brush for the dust filter. Use soldering iron to press in the brass nuts. Must use BL-Touch sensor. Must use filament run out sensor. Must use 324MM integrated lead screw Z stepper motors. Printer Info: E-Steps: 94.4962144403 Width: 210 Depth: 270 Height: 225 Firmware: Marlin RC8 Software:Arduino for updating firmwareCura 3.6 for generating 3D printing codesFreeCAD for designing 3D parts Pick one 3D printer to start off with: eBay Amazon HICTOP 3D Printer Aluminum Frame 24V eBay GearBest Athorbot A01 3D Printer Aluminum Frame 24V Required Items: Z Sensor 1x eBay Amazon BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor With 1 Meter Extension Plugs 1x eBay Amazon 2S JST-XH Connector Adapter Plug (for proximity sensor) 3x eBay Amazon 2p Spring Connector (for quick fan replacement) 1x eBay Amazon 6 Pins Screw Terminal Block Z Axis 2x AliExpress 17HS4401S M8x8 324MM Integrated Lead Screw Z Stepper Motor 2x eBay Amazon Brass T8 Anti-Backlash Spring Loaded Nut 2x eBay Amazon 8x12x3.5mm Bearing MR128-ZZ (for Z lead screw top mounts) Extruder 1x eBay eBay V6 1.75mm M7 Heat Sink Proximity Short Distance (for direct drive) 1x eBay Amazon V6 Throat 4.1mm Through (M7 throat, M6 heat block) 1x eBay Amazon PTFE Teflon Tube 2MM ID 4MM OD For 1.75MM Filament 1x eBay Amazon Extruder 0.4mm Nozzle 1.75mm 4x eBay Amazon 30mm x 10mm 24V Fan Bed 1x Menards 3/32" T x 10" W x 12" L Clear Glass Sheet 1x eBay Amazon Aluminum Y Carriage Anodized Plate Upgrade V2 1x eBay Amazon SC8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearing (for extra bearing on Y carriage) 4x eBay Amazon M3 Thumb Nut Wires 1x eBay Amazon 800mm Stepper Motor Cable Extension for X motor 1x eBay Amazon 1500mm Stepper Motor Cable Extension for E motor 1x eBay Amazon 1500mm 24V Heater Extension 1x eBay Amazon 1500mm NTC 100K Thermistor Temperature Sensor Extension 1x eBay Amazon 24 AWG Wire Extension (for fans) Thermostats 1x eBay Amazon Digital Computer Thermometer 1x eBay Digital LED Microcomputer Thermostat 1x eBay Amazon NTC 10K Thermistor (for microcomputer thermostat) Heat Sinks 11x eBay Amazon 9x9x12mm Heat Sink (for stepper drivers) 1x eBay Amazon 14x14x7mm Heat Sink (for main board chip) 10x eBay Amazon 20x20x10mm Heat Sink (for stepper motors) 4x eBay Amazon 40x40x11mm Heat Sink (for stepper motors) 1x eBay Amazon 25x20x0.20mm Thermal Tape Others 3x eBay SC8AJ 8mm Adjustable Bearing (for X carriage, don't compress these bearings too tight, in fact you don't have to tight them much at all) 5x eBay Amazon M2x6 Hex Socket 3x eBay Amazon M2x10 Hex Socket (for runout sensor) 4x eBay Amazon M2x12 Hex Socket (for belt tensioners) 2x eBay Amazon M3x4 Set Screw (for locking the plug on the X carriage.) 11x eBay Amazon M3x6 Set Screw (for locking XYZ rods and for locking Teflon tube) 4x eBay Amazon M3x8 Set Screw for locking (for locking bed plug, belt tensioners, and shutdown switch) 12x eBay Amazon M3x12 Hex Socket 5x eBay Amazon M3x20 Hex Socket 14x eBay Amazon M3x25 Hex Socket 9x eBay Amazon M3x30 Hex Socket 1x eBay Amazon M4x10 Hex Socket (for extruder X lever bearing) 15x eBay Amazon M2x3x3.2 Brass Insert Nut 43x eBay Amazon M3x3x4.3 Brass Insert Nut 28x eBay Amazon M3x3x5.3 Brass Insert Nut 2x eBay Amazon GT2 3mm Bore 20Teeth Aluminum Toothed Timing Belt Idler 2x eBay Amazon GE4E 4x12x5mm Spherical Bearing 1x eBay Amazon MR52ZZ 2x5x2.5mm Bearing (for runout sensor) 2x eBay Amazon 6902 2RS 15x28x7MM Bearing (for filament holder) 4x eBay Amazon TL-Smoother Plus Optional Items: 1x eBay Amazon 10mm Kapton Tape 1x eBay Amazon 16 AWG Wire Extension (for converter and heated bed) 4x eBay Amazon Linear Bearings LM8UU 8MM (good ones will not feel rough when sliding, most of them in the market are pretty bad) 4x eBay Amazon Build Platform Glass Retainer 1x eBay Amazon GT2 Belt 1x eBay Amazon SanDisk Extreme 16GB SDHC UHS-I Card 1x eBay Amazon Heat Reflective Tape 1x eBay 3D Printer ID5mm OD11mm 26 Tooth Half Linear Stainless Extruder Drive Gear 1x eBay Amazon 8 x 3 mm Round Magnets (For easy/removable AC-DC power cover fan replacement.) 1x eBay Amazon 3M Mounting Tape Tools:eBay Amazon 5/16" (7.9mm) Circle Hole PuncheBay Amazon Xacto X3201 N0. 1 Precision KnifeeBay Amazon 60W Soldering IroneBay Amazon Soldering Wire 60/40 1mmHarbor Freight 4 Pc Adjustable Wrench SetHarbor Freight 5 in. Curved Jaw Locking PliersHarbor Freight 4.8 Volt 1/4 in. Cordless Screwdriver KitHarbor Freight 36 Pc 3 in. Screwdriver Bit SetHarbor Freight Glass CuttereBay Amazon J-B Weld 33106 0.2 oz. Superweld Super Glue, CleareBay Amazon Snap Ring Pliers 6 Inch More Photos Start and End G-Codes Note: You're already getting these in the "Machine Settings RN-3DP Cura 3.6" file. ;Start G-code M107 ;Start with the fan off G21 ;Metric values G90 ;Absolute positioning G28 ;Homing M117 Auto X leveling... ;Put message on LCD screen G1 Z15 F1800 ;--Level X rods (F value is mm/minute) G0 X210 Y265 F15000 ;--Level X rods G1 Z235 F1800 ;--Level X rods G1 Z15 F1800 ;--Level X rods G0 X25 Y68 F15000 ;Coming back for homing fast G28 ;Homing G92 Z0. ;Z offset lower = Z pos, lift = Z neg M117 Auto bed leveling... ;Put message on LCD screen G29 ;Run auto bed level during cool bed tempersture G1 Z150 F1800 ;Move Z up M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp before proceeding G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp before proceeding G4 P2000 ;Delay 2 seconds for LCD message M25 ;Wait for user M117 Ready to print? ;Put message on LCD screen G0 X105 F15000 ;Move X to center G92 E0 ;Zero the extruder G1 E8 F250 ;Extrude filament to nozzle G92 E0 ;Zero the extruder M117 Printing... ;Put message on LCD screen ;End G-code M104 S0 ;Extruder heater off M140 S0 ;Heated bed heater off G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-10 F30000 ;Retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+15 F1800 ;Move Z up a bit G90 ;Absolute positioning G0 X210 Y265 F15000 ;--Auto shutdown - Move bed to the front G1 Z235 F1800 ;--Auto shutdown - Move move Z up all the way M117 Auto shutdown... ;--Auto shutdown - Put message on LCD screen G4 P600000 ;--Auto shutdown - Delay 5 minutes for the hotend to cool down G1 X215 ;--Auto shutdown - Move X to trigger the power switch M84 ;Steppers off Problems and Solutions Weird Moves Problem: Printer keeps making random moves during print using SD Card. Solution 1: Try using a new eBay Amazon SanDisk Extreme 16GB SDHC SD Card. Solution 2: Try using shorter 10 pin ribbon cables. 45CM or shorter is a safe length. The longer the cable, the more errors you will get. Solution 3: The SD card reader might be bad. Buy a new eBay Amazon 2004 LCD SD Card Reader. Problem: If your HICTOP printer is making random weird moves and shutting down when using SD card, it means that part of the LCD screen is touching the metal piece that is touching the Y step motor. If you have the old LCD screen that is all metal, you will have this problem. For your information, HICTOP now provides the metal cover that comes with plastic nuts to separate the LCD screen and the metal cover to fix this problem. Solution: Remove the LCD screen from the printer frame and put it aside. Avoid the LCD ribbon wires touching the step motor wires. Main Board & SD Card Reader Problem: From April 2017, HICTOP now has a built-in SD card reader on the main board. Thus, the SD card reader on the LCD is no longer usable. Solution: Buy an Amazon MKS Base V1.6 3D Printer Controller Board to replace it. LCD Doesn't Work Problem: LCD doesn't work when plugging in to the main board. Solution: Some Chinese MKS Base V1.4 or V1.5 main boards have the EXP2 and EXP1 upside down, so just flip the EXP2 and EXP1 plugs upside down and force plug in accordingly. Loud Converter If your converter's fan is making a loud noise, simply replace the fan with a new one here eBay Amazon 24V 60x60x15mm Fan. Uneven Bed ABS Problem: If you experience uneven bed when printing ABS out of nowhere, in this case the proximity sensor's temperature matters. If the sensor is cool during the preheat, given that the X carriage is 100mm or more above the bed, when the sensor is doing G29 or probing the bed, the cool sensor will get warmer and warmer throughout the bed and the sensor will give out inaccurate numbers as its temperature changes. Solution: Do Auto Home, and then preheat ABS. In this case the sensor should be about 15mm above the bed and getting warmed up by the bed's temperature. Once the sensor starts to prob the bed, its temperature shouldn't change wildly and it should give out accurate numbers. Solution: Or always do G29 or probing the bed before heating the bed. Solution: Make sure the countersinks on the bed are good so the screws won't be pushing the glass up causing uneven bed. ABS Bubbling Problem: ABS filament is bubbling when extruding. Solution: Bake the ABS filament in the oven at 175F for 1 hour or 2 hours and then try printing. It really depends on how much moisture is in the filament. The more moisture, the longer the bake time will have to be. Solution: If you don't have an oven, buy a eBay Amazon dehydrator and dehydrate the ABS filament overnight with 158F or 70C. Cut big enough hole on 3 trays, and you should be able to fit 2 1kg spools in there. PLA Clogging Nozzle, Heat Creep Problem: PLA keeps clogging at the throat even with new nozzle and new throat. Solution 1: Check the heat sink cooling fan, you may need to replace it. Solution 2: If it's still clogging, try increase the extruder spring tension. Solution 3: If it's still clogging, try blowing cool air through the printer. Solution 4: If it's still clogging, try printing at a lower temperature like 200C or 190C. Solution 5: If it's still clogging, throw away your filament, and buy a better quality filament. Proximity Sensor Problem: Proximity sensor wire(s) get broken inside. After a while these wires do get broken especially around the extruder flexing (the first curve). Problem: It might even be serious like it would actually blow up your main board. Solution: Buy new proximity sensor. Heat Drops Randomly Problem: Heat drops and the printer stops. Solution: Check the heat sensor wires, they might be broken inside somewhere. Just replace the sensor would be the best solution. Random Over Extrusion Problem: Random over extrusion on some layers at the same spots every print. Solution 1: Try different filament from different brand, the one you're using might have an inconsistency problem. Solution 2: Try printing using USB cable and see if the over extrusion will still occur. If it does, then there is possibly a problem with SD card, SD card reader or the main board. Nozzle Keeps Clogging Problem: Nozzle keeps clogging, the drive gear keeps spinning, and the filament doesn't move. Solution: The extruder spring lost its tension, maybe due to a deformed extruder X lever. Increase the extruder spring tension, replace the nozzle, and start printing. Solution: Also check for unstable temperature. It may just got too cold to extrude, then got clogged, and then back to normal temp. ⚠️ Disclaimer: This section contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.