Detailed Dalek model redrawn Free 3D print model

cgtrader

SummaryThis model is the result of my teaching myself Solidworks over the course of my end of the year vacation. I took Audrey2's excellent Accurate Dalek model and redrew every part of it from scratch, using it along with photos and some recycled pieces of my older Dalek models. The goal was to make a reasonably accurate and detailed Dalek model that was also easy to print and assemble and could be made entirely out of printed parts. This model is not as accurate as Audrey2's, but at the scale it's designed to print at you won't be able to tell the difference. It is made up entirely of printed parts (which meant some serious loss of fidelity on the eyestalk and gun, but that's unavoidable) with the exception of a single piece of 1.75mm filament for the eyestalk hinge. It does need some glue to be assembled, but not much as most of the parts friction-fit together well.InstructionsPrint one each of the bumper, core, eye, and plunger pieces in black. Print two of the armball pieces in black (or silver, the props used on the show are inconsistent). Print one each of the skirt, shoulder, dome, and two each of the three ring halves in brown, or your preferred base color. Note that the shoulder will probably need to be printed with support, and the dome may as well. Print two lamps, two eyestalk halves, two gun halves, and one plunger arm in silver. Print one shoulder joint cap file in gold. Note that there are two pieces in this file. Print one of the slats file. Note that this file contains 18 separate pieces in it. Each one of the slats is different, and each goes in a specific slot on the shoulder piece. I recommend printing the shoulder piece, then the slats, and then removing each slat from the print bed and attaching them to the shoulder piece one at a time so you don't get them confused. Print 54 of the bumps in gold or whatever color you made the slats, and 54 of the bump rings in black or silver or your choice of colors. Print 1 dome pin in any color you like. The bumps and bump rings attach to the skirt without glue or fasteners. Put the bumps through the rings, then through the holes in the skirt, and then turn them 90 degrees to lock them in place. The skirt should press down onto the bumper and hold in place by friction. Likewise, the core piece should press into the top of the skirt and hold itself in place. You may want to add a dab of glue to hold them. Each slat presses into a corresponding slot on the shoulder. They should hold in place by friction, but again a dab of glue is recommended. Each arm ball fits into a socket on the front of the shoulder assembly. The shoulder joint caps go over them and hold them in place. These need to be glued in place, but the glue has to be applied very carefully so as to not jam the balls in place. Unless you don't care that the gun and plunger don't move, in which case it's easy to assemble. Trim the bits of support from the plunder arm, and then glue it into the back of the plunger and the right side arm ball. Glue the sides of the gun together and press it into the other arm ball. The shoulder assembly slides over the core and should sit flush on top of the skirt. The two halves of each ring then snap together into the grooves on the core. Ring 1 is the bottom one, ring 3 is the top. The lamps insert through the holes in the bottom of the dome. They will probably need a little glue to stay in place. Glue the two halves of the eyestalk together, and then glue them into the back of the eye piece. Slide the round bit at the back of the eyestalk through the slot on the front of the dome. Cut a piece of 1.75mm filament to about half an inch, and then push it through the round hole at the back of the eyestalk piece. Then push the filament piece and eyestalk back forward so the filament piece fits snugly in the cross slot inside the dome. Push the dome pin into the hole in the center underside of the dome, then push it down into the mating hole on the top of the core. The dome should turn freely.