Door support (anti-sag) for 3D printer enclosure

Door support (anti-sag) for 3D printer enclosure

thingiverse

I built schlem's 3D printer enclosure (having long since been banished to the most remote corner of my garage by she-who... you know...). I found that the door sagged by about 3/4 inch, so I created this simple support bracket. I glued it onto the outside of the door using cyanoacrylate (superglue). As with all my cyanoacrylate on acrylic, I needed to clamp it while drying (using spring clamps). Some of the acrylic I used was 0.100 inch instead of the 0.080 inch thickness, and this may have caused the door sag. I am using this with my Prusa i3 from MakerFarm. The only change I made to schlem's plans was to put the filament ingress on the top, but that was mostly a matter of preference. I've included only the door hanger STL and FreeCAD source rather than create yet another copy - see schlem's original and link to instructables for complete instructions and all other needed parts. Instructions I chose to try using cyanoacrylate (super glue). I used one of the gel variants (which differs from normal cyanoacrylate only in that it stays in place on vertical surfaces a little better). I did this mostly to avoid having to mix batch after batch of two-part epoxy. It worked rather well but I needed to keep things in place for about 90 seconds with firm pressure when gluing ABS pieces against smooth acrylic. Spring clamps were very helpful for the pieces where spring clamps could reach. When I needed to glue ABS to ABS, it "grabbed" within a few seconds (as you might normally expect with superglue). The same is true of skin, so when holding pieces in place be careful! Another important point to add to the build instructions (as noted by other commenters) is to first use your hole saw to drill out 1 inch and 2 inch holes in a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and use this as a hole saw guide (for cutting holes in acrylic without the center bit in the hole saw, which normally stabilizes it). Clamping the acrylic between this hole saw guide and another piece of plywood (or particle board) allowed me to make fairly clean crack-free holes.

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