Dual Action OTF Hidden Blade (Assassin Style)

thingiverse

Current Status Update 10/17/2017 Some of you ask if I could add a ring, so here the result... I made a connor(templar) style ring. Size of the design is ring size 10(62) so dont forget to scale it to your needs (finger) enjoy! Update 4/9/2017 HI so following comments about issues... I've uploaded fixed part! -Outer Blade bottom: sorry my bad the latest version was missing the under channel for the rubber band so I re-up the correct version... -Main Body: I've Re-up the last version that I've print and work... since some people mention me some mesh defect... -Ratchet Wheel and Gear: Remove rubber band hook on the wheel (historical reason) so it's stronger and easier to print. Also change the radius so more flat space for the pla spring... -Optionnal Dual Side Inner Blade: Blade design to be printed on his edge (brim recommended) so you could be kick-ass on both side :) ... but harder to print... Special Thanks to BP94 and Toa_Firox for there respective constructive comments! Update 1/24/2017 I've just re-uploaded the fixed switchplate (shorter release curve), and removed the ratchet latch (has been replaced by the pla spring ... and it work a lot better) Update 1/4/2017 Happy New Year :) ! ... I've just added the new design for the ratchet latch... currently in testing but seem to work really nicely!! enjoy! I've also added a version of the blade latch with no hole... some people have issue to print the original one so i've add a version without the pivot hole...(manual drilling required)... but if you could you should try to avoid using those... normally over a stadard 0.4 nozzle printer those latch print nicely envent at 0.2 layer (0.1 recommended). Update 11/28/2016 After my weekend's test I've concluded that my prior double hook carriage was a far better design... so i've just updated the stl... (last design was functionnal ... but i've been force to add a drop of hot glue to ensure rubber band stay in place.... this old/ new design was better and work without any help... so this is fixed. I've been able to assemble a complete working device, some sanding was required... now i start printing the complete design and start documenting assembly... Update 11/2/2016 Ok, First I've made a thickness calculation error over the latest outer blade top which is now solved. The double hook latch beat gravity easily! In your Face Gravity! :D... my problem was related to friction against the front stop block... So I've modified the blade to fix that. The Inner blade double latch work well... but a little weak so I've fix that too... Fix clearance issue around hook on the switch plate (I was forced to drill a hole next to it to fit the band.... not needed anymore) I've design a new switchplate double hook carriage that is easier to print and stronger by design, I'm also think of applying same concept over the switch plate itself... could enable a better power adjustment(not sure if its needed... since it currently work very well) I've also added a new BETA main body low friction edition. would test it over next days... Change Log: Fixed Switch Plate. New Switch plate carriage. Move Foward the rubber band track on the outer blade so the latch of the blade would be stronger. Fix some tolerance issue Incoming: New Rack Hook design. Slimmer Ratchet System and slimmer middle plate. Hole to insert hex nuts to the back for easier assembly/de-assembly. look to take this design a little smaller...length/width/thickness Update2 11/2/2016 New Rack Hook design Ratchet latch tolerance fixed (not yet tested) MAJOR UPDATE I've move the main flipper rubber band from bottom to middle plate, this solve the time to time rubber band obstruction, it's now easier to assemble and enable me to slim the system by 2 mm :). I've also fix the channel for the rubber band on the blade (wider). Tolerance on blade, latch, rack and gear as been adjusted too. The only real issue remaining is the join of rubber band an the switch-plate + Carriage... currently it work but require glue to keep them in place ... and the carriage part is hard to print cleanly. I'm in my way to test 2-3 option: hook on both part, sandwich the rubber band between two part (carriage split in two slim part) ... if you have any other idea feel free to comment :) I know that I could set the ratchet part to 2mm thickness... And a would probably do it... as soon other issue solved... I would probably be able to take the complete system under 20mm thickness(but since I like the blade as is, it would be hard to go under that...) :) Update Beta Hook Version I've just add an hook version of the switch plate.... not yet tested.... Update 27/10/2016 Finally I've found the solution for the rebber band hook of the switchplate...and now i need to found a usage for my ~10 switchplate prototype i've print... lol... Add gap for flipper in main plate and tune flipper Update 27/10/2016 part two I've just added an double hook version of the switch plate... with one hook its hare to find rubber band strong enough to beat gravity so double hook is here :) * Update 29/10/2016 My fight against gravity** OK so the previous double hook switch plate wasn't working very well... so here a new version that should fix those issue... the new double hook is design to use a single longer rubber band. I also modify the blade(inner/outer) to limit resistance and make blade latch easier to print ... on my way to print and test them,,, hope I would say your face gravity :) Update 31/10/2016 Fixed the thin wall of the double hook system... looking good to solve the gravity issue :)... if this didn't solve the case, I would slim done a little outer blade to limit weight of the blade... I know using the single hook version with a metal spring work well but my plan is to do the complete thing without any special part... 1 paper clip and couple of rubber band.... that's my plan :) Original Since I have an overstock of rubber band, I was looking around for something to complete my medieval vambrace (My Other Designs). I didn't find what a was looking for...(didn't have time for special order of specific spring, special part etc...) THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS!! Currently it seems that some tolerance is too small so it need sanding to make it work... also currently the resulting thinkness of the complete system is a little big in my point of view.... I use smaller air rubber band from dollar store... but it seems that they worn out really fast when use for the main blade extension/retraction... so I keep them for blade latch and Flipper .... but i'm currently reworking the cad to enable the use of something stronger for the blade I've Just updated the Switch Plate and carriage :) (currently rack use standard rubber band which do the job well) The Switch plate and switchpale latch have Change!! Special thanks to InDeepPainReborn for his impressive how-to made an hidden blade in wood...this was really usefull and help me to design mine... Also I'm currently working on another latch system for the main blade...Now working to slim down the model... Resulting Blade Look Great... I plan to finish the design before Halloween :) Hope you like it :) Update !!! I've just update some part to add some tolerance for limiting required sanding.... MY BAD!!! One of the updated Stl(switchplate) was missing on of the 45deg rail on one end.... its now fixed, sorry everyone for that... Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Tevo tarantula with large bed Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 20% Notes: Smallest piece (blade latch,switch plate latch,middle plate latch, flipper, other latch) work better printed in 0.1 For a complete 1 arm blade, you need: 1 of the two available body (probably the low friction is the best but didn't completed test yet), 1 of the two available switchplate (for rubber band I recommend double hook ) and 2x sp carriage of the same version ( double hook), 4x main flipper, 2x inner blade latch,2x ratchet latch and 1x all other part. Post-Printing Getting Started! Once you've got all needed printed Part, you're alomost ready to go... Here the list of needed tools and part required: Rubber band... a lot of them lol(detail: 2 small and strong for the switch plate, 2 ouch-less (or small and weak) for the main flipper, 1 ouchless for the blade latch, 1 ouch-less for the ractchet latch, 1 ouch-less for the middle plate latch and 1 small and not so strong for the rack) . I've buy two pack of elastic band(from a dollar store), 1 pack of Standard (mix size) office elastic band and 1 pack of Ouch-less Style Hair Elastic Band. 1 Medium/small all metal paper clip (I didn't encourage you stealing it from your office!... I couldn't been take responsible of you decision...lol) Couple of drop of your favourite contact glue... I would prefer not using it but screw wont fit well and high frequency plastic welding at home its a pain lol... Sanding Stick, sanding paper and/or metal file... die friction, die! 1 pair of pliers (you could succeed without it ... but make the life easier) Once you've got those, you're ready to go! Step one: The Blade Take a deep breath, lets rock! Part needed for this step: Inner Blade x 1 Outer Blade top x1 Outer Blade bottom x1 So insert inner blade in outer blade bottom, it must slide loosely inside of it... with no resistance at all! (ok I know its physically impossible so try to reach less as possible...). The inner blade must move easily by gravity force... it must not remain stuck in or out... If the blade remains stuck... here come to play Sanding tools... rule of thumb: if it stuck, it need more sanding :)... back of the blade, outer blade inner side wall, etc. Once the blade slide freely, put the outer blade top over it (to enclose the inner blade) with some spare rubber band secure the two outer blade part together (that would lock the inner blade inside the outer blade) and be sure that the inner blade slide freely... if not ...surprise: sand it! until the inner blade slide flawlessly. Now you have a inner blade that slide ridiculously easily inside the outer blade.... Glue Time!( :( ) remove the temporary rubber band, leave the inner blade inside the outer blade bottom, and put some contact glue on top of the OB-Bottom Wall (be sure to not pour glue on the inner blade) and glue the OB-Bottom and OB-Top around the inner blade. Slide in and out the inner blade until your glue is dry to be sure the the inner blade would not glue to the outer blade. And now you have a inner blade that slide ridiculously easily inside the glued outer blade :) Step Two: Inner Blade Latch Part needed for this step: Assembled Blade x1 (From Step 1) Inner blade Latch x2 Small Ouch-less rubber band x1 Medium full metal paper clip Pair of pliers (and depending of your print quality you could need to drill clean hole...) First, Insert a small ouch-less rubber band in the slot that go all around the outer blade, take care that the band must lay flat on the bottom of the slot... no twist. Now if you look closely at the outer blade you would see small hole going trough the top an the bottom part...(clean them if needed).Cut a strait piece of the paper clip, long enough to fit flush with the bottom of the hole in the outer blade bottom part, all the way to the top of the ob-top part hole. Take one of the inner blade latch, the rounded extremity should face the bottom of the blade (not the Sharp one) and the installed prior rubber band should fit in the notch of the inner blade latch. align hole and insert the metal pin you've just cut trough all the three part (OB-Top -> IB-Latch -> OB-Bottom). Be sure that the pin didn't goes out the bottom of the OB-Bottom. You could add a drop of glue on the top of the pin to secure it. Do those step again with the other latch on the other side of the blade... The blade is now completed.... Step Three: hey Body! Part needed for this step: Assebled Blade x1 (From Step 2) Main Body x1 Main Flipper x4 First, Clean up the hole in the main body, the flipper should move easily inside of it. Insert the blade assembly inside the body, it should slide freely inside of it. If not, sand the interior wall of the body. The blade should slide in and out easily under gravity force, From fully extended to fully enclosed. Insert main flipper in their hole, and be sur that they could lock the blade (if not ... sanding... they should lock the blade with no resistance) Step 4: the switch plate Small and Strong elastic band x2 Switch plate x1 Switch plate carriage x2 Take the switch plate and insert one of the carriage, clean it (sanding) until it slide freely inside his rail.Single Hook Version Insert one of the rubber band (or spring) between the hook of the switch plate and the hook of the carriage.Double Hook Version(recommended for rubber band setup) Hook the rubber band to one of the switch plate hook, stretch it trough one of the hole in the switch plate carriage(far as possible). And you hook it back to the second switch plate hook. You should have now a switch plate with a carriage that hard to pull out and take is rest place back when release... Do the same with the other carriage. Clean up the flat side of the switch plate so it could slide freely inside the top rail of the body (over the blade). Step 5: Start to looking good :) (aka: assemble blade,switch plate, main flipper and middle plate in body) Part needed for this step: Assebled Blade x1 (From Step 2) Switch plate assembly x1 (from step 4) Main Body x1 Main Flipper x4 Starting with the main body, insert blade assembly (press the lock latch during insert), Insert the four main flipper in their hole ( the two pin side on top), Put the switchplate (the off center slide opening on the back and cariage pin facing down) and the front blocker(would be glue but not now) on top. Take the middle plate, be sure that flipper hole are clean. Warning! The trickiest part incoming... Put the middle plate on top, all the four flipper should be inserted in their both top and bottom hole(tricky). Once all assemble as instructed, used two big rubber band to keep it together(1 around the front and one on back). Step 6: it's alive! mouhahaha! ( aka: Rubber load those flipper) ouch-less rubber band x2 (or two small weak rubber) main assembly x1 (from Step 5) Add rubber band to join the two pair of flipper...once done, you could test it ! without pushing down, slide the switch plate opening from one side of the opening to the other.... if this didnt work well.... some sanding is missing or your rubber band are not strong enough... Blade latch working... It's alive!!