Dual Flight Sim Rotary Switch and Knobs for COM/Autopilot etc

thingiverse

PLEASE POST YOUR MAKES AND COMMENTS TO MAKE THIS BETTER AND LET ME KNOW OTHER THINGS YOU MIGHT WANT ME TO MAKE!! This device is way to emulate a Flight Sim Dual Knob Rotary Encoder with out an encoder. Use it for Flight Sim 2020, X Plane, Prepar3D or any flight simulator. I have to say I am pretty proud of this design, HERE IS A SINGLE KNOB VERSION https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4611579 FOR THINGS LIKE like heading knobs, altitude etc. but I started with the harder design. You can mount it with the existing supplied threaded shaft and nut, just like any knob/switch, or you can merge it in your own design of a control panel print. If I say so myself this little thing is pretty cool. No Arduino, or encoder switch needed. But you get the real feel and functionality. This print uses 6mm micro tactile switches to serve the functions of the encoder. It works very well and it is really nice to have knobs where there are knobs and not push buttons. I spent A LOT of time and many revisions on this design to make it as efficient and realistic as possible without the expense and hassle of a full blown encoder. I have to say this really gives you the feel of knobs and digital encoder without the PITA and expense. FUNCTIONS: Dual knobs, inner and outer plus a push button on the inner knob. The shafts don't go round and round but you forget about that once you start using them You turn and hold to have the dial continuity increase/decease value, then pulse the knob to do single digits. Radio example: To use for radio frequency management you program the small knob push button to switch between active and standby channel. You then program the big knob to change whole numbers, and the small knob to change fractions...just like the real life knobs do. You then use the knobs to change standby frequencies and push knob to switch to active...easy! The design takes into account the thickness of your panel to mount or you can use as is not mounted in a panel. PARTS NEEDED: Quantity of 5, 6 x 6mm x 5mm Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switchs (about $5.00 for 100 of them) This is what I use but it was out of stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VSNN9S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Replacement https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI-Miniature-Momentary-Tactile-Quality/dp/B01CGMP9GY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=6+x+6mm+x+5mm+Momentary+Tactile+Tact+Push+Button+Switch&qid=1600640136&s=industrial&sr=1-1 Quantity of 4, #4 – ½ wood screws (cut to about 2/3 length) USB Arcade encoder $9.48 (Will support 3 of the switches) https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=USB+arcade+encoder&qid=1600645388&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRTA5U1dDOEZNU0U5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQyMjE4UFcwUlVXMzZLMkIxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0Mzc1MzY3WDVURkhEN1gxOTUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Add about 40 cents in plastic and the switch costs less than a dollar! $12 for everything you need. Awesome! Printing: I printed all parts at 0.12 layers using a 0.4 print nozzle and PLA. The part tolerances are fairly tight but you could try other settings. The parts that really need to be printed fine are the front plate an the shaft nut. This is due to the threads, also print this 100% fill for strength. You can tighten the nut surprisingly tight and that is how you mount this into a control panel. Also the small knob should be printed with fine settings due to the fitment if the shaft in the front plate and the teeth needed to interlock with the shaft. l. In addition the big knob looks better printed fine but that's up to you. Assembly: See the exploded diagram for the order of assembly. You have to glue the micro-switches in place I found 5 minute epoxy worked best. I tried super glue but it was so thin it got into the switch sometimes and ruined them. Be careful about using to much glue and don't get any on the face of the switch. I pre-positioned the switches and slid the shaft in place to make sure they would trigger before I glued them in. This also allows you to adjust the feel of the knobs to your liking. You can add/remove knobs slack as you see fit. Personally I like the knob to have some slack between switch pulses. When gluing the 4 switches in the front plate make sure you leave room to push the wires down into the notches in the micro-switch holders as you need the back plate to sit flush when you put it on. For the micro-switch in the back plate, assemble the device and note where the end of the knob shaft moves up an down for the push button. Mount the switch so it triggers from a push of the shaft and then put a blob of glue behind it. Epoxy works really well for this. The small knob slips into the big knob from behind then you mount them together as a unit. The big knob is only held in by friction but you could put a little screw on the switch trigger behind the back plate if you find it slips, I don't think this will really be an issue as you will be pushing the knob in when you use it.