Duet 3 Universal Enclosure

Duet 3 Universal Enclosure

thingiverse

Update 2: The front wall has been tweaked to improve the hole sizes and locations of the USB port and audio jack. Also added a clean back wall for those who install a smaller power supply. I also included a block-off plate for those who already printed the original back wall, but want the large hole plugged and don't want to print or install a new back wall. At some point, my Duet 3 board 5v voltage regulator started producing low voltage, so instead of sending the board in, I purchased a Homelylife brand 5V 100W buck converter to power my raspberry Pi, which further powers my Duet 3 5v rail. I added an adapter bracket to install the buck convertor into the spare slot I put on the "board mounts" plate. Finally, I added an adapter to use the stock CR-10 spool holder. All newly-added parts should just require standard PC fan screws to mount. Update: The original Front Wall stl did not have a cutout to accomodate a small motherboard-mounted component below the right upper mount screw. The update creates a cavity to create space for it. Also, re-adjusted raspberry Pi cutout locations Original: This is an enclosure designed from the ground-up to utilize the Duet 3 board, PanelDue_7i, Raspberry Pi 3+ with wifi. The case has accommodations for standard CR-10S parts and connectors, but may be customized for any printer that can use the Duet 3 board. Of note, if you have a Raspberry Pi connected to your Duet 3, the Paneldue will not be fully supported, but can still manually set temperatures, home/move the extruder, and perform an emergency stop. If you do not use a Raspberry Pi, you will not have wifi connectivity. If you do not have a CR-10S, here are the minor parts you need: C14 Male Power Cord Inlet Socked w/Fuse Holder--3Pin Inlet Module KCD3-101 Rocker Switch (Total Size(Each) : 30 x 14 x 39mm/ 1.2" x 0.55" x 1.5" (L*W*T); Mount Size : 26 x 10.5 x 30mm/ 1.02" x 0.4" x 1.2" (L*W*Depth)) Miscellaneous hardware from your old box Non-CR-10S Parts you need: 92mm 12V Computer Fan (3-pin or 4-pin 92mm Fan Guard or filter (optional) 2ea 40mm 12V fans (optional, 3-pin or 4-pin) Dupont Pin Compression Ratcheting Crimping tool (Duet kit comes with Dupont connectors and metal sockets/pins. My crimper has 3 sizes ranging from AWG28-18) 14GA Wire Spool for Power Supply wiring. About 9ea Number-8 Spade Terminals Terminal Crimping tool 4ea Laptop Chassis screws to mount Raspberry Pi About 45ea M5 Computer fan screws (the coarse kind, I lost count how many I used) M3 Screw Kit of assorted lengths 4ea #6-32 standard computer screws (to mount the duet 3 board) Duet 3 board w/ribbon cable Raspberry Pi3+ Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Adapter from LANMU (optional, recommended if you would like to physically access your Raspberry Pi storage often. Not needed to load projects through Wifi) The floor has mounting locations for a standard 12V 350Watt power supply, but it was over-built to accommodate a larger power supply. To complete my 24V conversion, I altered the CR-10S with the following parts: Mean Well SE-600-24 (24VDC power supply) 24V Hot End fans from an Ender 3 24V Hot End Heater Cartridge made by BCZAMD 24V Hot Bed made by SIMAX3D (I didn't feel comfortable doubling the hot bed power output through the stock CR-10S connector, so I omitted the box screw-in connector and used longer wire direct from the board to the printer, and used .250" slide connectors from my local auto store to join to the hot bed) Of note: I haven't printed the final version of the front panel vent yet, so I haven't verified final Raspberry Pi port positioning, but on my previous version I elongated the holes with a soldering iron and everything fits perfectly. Hoping this final version won't need to be adjusted. The 24V 600W MeanWell Power supply was louder than I would've hoped considering everything else is silent, but this setup only peaks at about 250Watts, so it's a bit overkill. I was hoping the fan would vary with the load and always be silent, but this is not the case. The board mount tray has an extra unused spot for future expansion. No need to re-engineer the whole thing, just design an adapter. The blank mount area uses holes that are spaced 41.753mm X 77.286mm, and require holes that measure 5.2mm to utilize the standard M5 computer fan mount screws.I put this blank spot there in case Duet releases a CAN-FD expansion board that features better PanelDue support. Additionally, if more than 2 stepper drivers ever fail, an expansion board can be installed to add extra stepper drivers. After everything I learned from this project, I would've just stayed with a Duet 2, but I was interested in the Duet 3's updated Trinamic 5160 stepper drivers that may have print quality enhancements once the firmware for the Duet 3 matures. I went overkill on cooling, but I print in my garage in southern Nevada and wanted to make sure I didn't have issues. You can see the board temperature through the RRF3.0 web interface, and if you see temperatures get high, add the 40mm fans and brackets. I have 8 extra screw holes in the lid. This is for mounting another accessory such as a handle or a spool holder. If unused, I recommend just covering them with electrical tape. The hole spacing from back to front is 12mm, 83mm, 12mm. Left to right is 40mm. The PanelDue bezel is printed without the button tops so that it can be printed face-down with no supports. Since these are more or less emergency buttons, you can get crazy with it and print them in yellow or red to grab your attention and glue them on, or just don't use the button tops at all. For the Front face with the airflow exhaust grills, if you print this diagonally upside-down, you can safely delete supports to all exhaust grills and holes.I'm still trying to figure out optimal print orientation to get the best quality.

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