Duplicator 4/4x Hotend Upgrade Kit

thingiverse

This is all the parts you need to upgrade your duplicator 4/4x to a hotend printer. This takes a lot of weight of the printing head and allows you to print faster and reduce printer wear. Parts to buy. 2 x 24 volt E3D or equivalent hotends. I used an ebay imports myself. But I did need to use my old heaters and thermocouples as the others didn't work for me. Kit will need to include hotend heat sinks, fans, fan mounts, 2mm ID pipe and push fits and the head end. 2x M6 x 30mm nozzle throats. Don't get rid of your old throats as you'll need them at the stepper motors (see picture and you'll notice a thread going right up to the gear and bearing). You need longer ones because the hotends need the extra thread into them. If you could adjust the bed up further then you wouldn't need them because the heaters wouldn't need to sit so low. 2 x Aluminium extruder Mk8 upgrade kits (left and right type). This is a great upgrade anyway but you'll need this so that you have a M6 thread to attach the hotend pipe to the stepper motor extruders. Gear upgrade, this is the best gear to use as others can over squeeze the filament and jam the filament in the pipe/head. 2 x M6 couplers- to attach the hotend pipe to the motor/extruder parts. Screw in old nozzle throat up to the extruder gear and bearing then screw on M6 coupler and then add the push fit (see picture) 2 x 30mm 24Volt fans. These are for the cooling duct. 1 x M3 to 25-30mm screw. This is for the head stop plate (see picture) Printing parts 1 x head stop. Removing the stepper motors from the head means that the y-axis stop switch has nothing to press against (see picture). 1 x Remote extruder mount - This allows the motors to mount to the back of the printer 1 x Hotend Cable Mount - Holds the cables in place at the head end. Old cable mount is redundant. 2-4 x - Fan guards. Because the fans are small it is very easy the break them. Guards save money. Cooling duct. The hotends do need a cooling duct. This duct glues in place with a bit of hot glue or something. Door latch - the cooling duct does stick up further than the door. The latch is to hold the door during the print start sequence. Depending on size of print the door can then be put down to keep the heat in. MUST You must change the head moving speed to 150mm/s on travel and retract about 3mm so that the filament doesn't oozing when moving. Don't retract more than 3mm as this will not help. Only moving fast will happy but be careful not to move too fast. Good luck will balancing your two printer heads as this is never fun on a dual head printer. Print Settings Printer: Duplicator 4x Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.3 Infill: 10% Notes: 3 shells is a good idea. Cooling duct does require support. PVA glue makes an amazing surface to print on. I mix 4:1 glue:water. Water washable pva glue and water painted onto the heated bed @ 65degs works amazing.