E3D hotend for FlashForge Adventurer 3 / Monoprice Voxel

thingiverse

Testing now. It works. Heating is a bit slow, but it stays steady once at the right temperature. I'd use a 30W heater to stay well below the 2A limit of the JST PH connector. This is a replacement X-carriage/hotend for the Flashforge Adventurer 3 / Monoprice Voxel. It replaces the custom nozzle with an E3D. Features • An E3D V6 hotend, so hopefully no more clunking, clicking extruders and random jams. • A decent cooling setup, with a split flow duct directing cooling to both sides of the print. • Far fewer screws into plastic - so less chance of wearing out bits over time. To do this mod, you'll need a few bits and pieces. You'll need: • A 4 pin JST PH 2mm connector and crimps + terminals to connect the E3D to the existing breakout board (Or you can solder it direct to the board). • A few m3 square nuts. (Worth having these around anyway, as they are really useful ways to use fasteners in 3D prints). The prints are assuming 5.6x5.6x1.8mm nuts. Should be able to handle up to a 2 - 2.2mm thick nut. Any thicker and you may have to get out the soldering iron. • A couple of M3 hex nuts. Yep, sorry, couple of spots where there wasn't room for a square nut. • Some M3 screws (mostly 10mm, a 12mm for the LED bracket, maybe a couple of longer ones, I forget. :D) Hopefully that's it. I'd print the fan duct out of ABS. You'll need to avoid supports as much as possible, or use custom supports to avoid supports forming in the main cross-duct. Update: Carriage revised with screw holes now on the correct side. >.< Lid updated giving some space for cables. Duct revised for better supportless printing. Silly and blank lid added. (The blank lid really wants some googly eyes. :D) To print LED bracket - front side down. X-carriage - on its back. Lid - upside down Duct - front side down. Clamp - doesn't really matter. I used front side down Update 12/5/19: Tightened clamp tolerances.