Eachine Racer 250 camera servo tilt mount

thingiverse

This is based on GuruX's really cool FPV camera servo tilt mount for the Eachine Racer 250.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1351425 There were a few small things that I needed to change to make it work better with my Racer 250 battery tray, so I ended up remodeling everything from scratch in DesignSpark Mechanical. Main features: Allows for servo control of FPV camera tilt both up and down of about 45 degrees. Allows 6 inch props to be used. Works with my Racer 250 battery tray that has built-in mounting points for the 3.7g Banggood micro-mini servo. You can get the servo here:http://www.banggood.com/3_7g-Micro-Mini-Servo-For-RC-Model-p-77696.html The battery tray is at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1289398. I have also included the battery tray files here. Make sure you print out the special version with the servo mount and servo bracket (not the basic version or experimental versions). There are two servo versions - one for 12mm long screws and one for 16mm screws. The small changes I made: Moved camera forward about 2mm to better clear a capacitor on the bottom shelf. Reduced larger than needed clearance between camera frame mounts and the pivot arms on the face plate so the camera does not shift from side to side. Reduced opening sizes for the LED headlights so that they fit snug. Put in setscrew holes so the original setscrews could be used to secure the LED headlights. Increased shim height by about 0.5mm to try to match the height of the face plate a little better. This will also help provide extra room for 4S batteries. Increased depth of holes in face plate to allow longer screws to be used for attaching upper and lower shelves. Made linkage rod hole in the camera bracket smaller to allow for using smaller control rod/wire. Drill out as required if using larger rod. I used .046" (1.17mm) rod and a Dubro #845 E/Z connector on the servo. Changed front opening in hopes of getting slightly better unobstructed camera view at extreme up and down positions. I once again express my thanks for GuruX for his design adapted to the Racer 250. I am including the DesignSpark Mechanical files for anyone who is interested in easily making additional changes to suit your tastes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibwXyaxbyKQ Print Settings Printer: Custom built Kossel 2020 Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 30% or more Notes: Printed in PLA for greater stiffness. Support needed in recessed area where LED headlamps go in. Sliced with Simplify 3D. Post-Printing Tips Most holes are sized to permit self threading of the appropriate metric screws. The original screws can be used for mounting top and bottom plates to the face-plate. The shims under the top plate will require 12mm long screws. The holes for the pivot point on the rear of the faceplate should use standard M3 screws which will self thread. The part of the screw that protrudes on the inside of that pivot point goes into the holes in the camera board brackets. These holes MAY have to be reamed very slightly in order for the camera board to pivot freely on the tips of the screws. Don't ream any more that absolutely necessary. If you get the holes in the camera brackets to large, the camera mount will not be as precise and could allow the camera to flop around a bit. The same goes for the hole that the linkage rod goes into. You don't want any slop anywhere. Please look at the picture to see how to mount the servo bracket on the battery tray. I played around with several different orientations and this one works best. The servo should be mounted with the ears on the outside, Use short self tapping screws so that they don't protrude and hit the USB connector. The linkage rod should just barely clear the front left arm of the quad - which will keep the rod engaged into the hole in the camera tilt bracket.