Easter Bunny Springo

prusaprinters

<p>I was inspired by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVc6AHfGw9b2zOE_ZGfmsnw">Devin Montes</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/makeanything3d?lang=en">(@MakeAnything3D)</a> to create a springo (or is it slingo?) of my own - an Easter Bunny. This was a fun design process, and it is a bit of a challenge to print. It took me a few goes to get it right.</p><p>It's my first attempt and I've included the Fusion 360 file. You'll notice that the head and body are in two separate parts. I did this mostly for my own convenience during the development process. I've included STLs for the head and body separately, and a combined STL that includes them both. If you print them separately you can print the head at a low infill. The body should be 100%. If you print the single model, you can use your slicer to change the infill settings of the two areas if you'd like. I did this in PrusaSlicer.</p><p>There are also STLs for the left and right eye and the nose. I printed these in a different color and they snap into place. You could use a dot of glue, but I didn't find it necessary - especially for the eyes.</p><p>Here are a couple of short videos showing the bunny:<br><a href="https://youtu.be/T-5i651o8sk">Cracking apart the layers</a><br><a href="https://youtu.be/pBH1jFlEmYo">The finished product</a></p><p>I've printed this design on a Prusa MK3 and an Ender 3. A friend printed it on a CR-10.</p><h3>Print instructions</h3><h3>Category: Sculptures Summary</h3><p>I was inspired by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVc6AHfGw9b2zOE_ZGfmsnw">Devin Montes</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/makeanything3d?lang=en">(@MakeAnything3D)</a> to create a slingo of my own - an Easter Bunny.</p><p>It's my first attempt and I've included the Fusion 360 file. You'll notice that the head and body are in two separate parts. I did this mostly for my own convenience during the development process. I've included STLs for the head and body separately, and 1 big STL that includes them both. If you print them separately you can print the head at a low infill. The body should be 100%. If you print the single model, you can use your slicer to change the infill settings of the two areas if you'd like. I did this in PrusaSlicer.</p><p>There are also STLs for the left and right eye and the nose. I printed these in a different color and they snap into place. You could use a dot of glue, but I didn't find it necessary - especially for the eyes.</p><p>Here are a couple of short videos showing the bunny. First, cracking apart the body:</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-5i651o8sk"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The finished product:</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/pBH1jFlEmYo"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>Print Settings</h3><ul><li><strong>Resolution</strong>: 0.15mm</li><li><strong>Infill</strong>: 100% (this is important, but can be lowered for the head - see notes below)</li><li><strong>Filament</strong>: Hatchbox PLA. For most of my prints I used white for the body and pink for the nose and eyes.</li></ul><p><strong>Notes:&nbsp;</strong></p><p>Print the nose and eyes in an accent color, then print either:</p><ul><li>The Body and Head separately ("Bunny Body.stl" &amp; “Bunny Head.stl”), <i>or</i></li><li>The whole bunny ("Slingo Bunny.stl")</li></ul><p><i><strong>The body should be printed at 100% infill to make the spring work and separate properly</strong></i>. The head can be a low infill if desired. If you print the single body you can use your slicer to set different infill for different regions (i.e. the head and body). I did this in PrusaSicer. If you print the head and body separately, use CA glue to connect them permanently.</p><p>When I printed the eyes and nose, I used a brim to keep them from being knocked over. They're pretty small and have a hard time standing on their own. Print the eyes upright with the slanted parts facing up.</p><p>Printing on an Ender 3:<br>I've done most of my prints on a Prusa i3 MK3, but I've printed a couple on an Ender 3 and CR-10S Pro. On those machines I find that I need to reduce the bridge flow rate to about 20mm/s. I also decrease the extrusion multiplier a little (to about 97%), but honestly I don't know if that is needed. I didn't do independent tests.</p><h3>Post-Printing</h3><p>Once the body is printed, you need to "crack" it apart. You can do this by hand as I did in the attached video, or you can carefully insert the edge of a scraper and pry the layers loose. Once you have an opening, I find it easiest to use the scraper to pry open the rest of the layers. I stopped prying about 1 coil up on the bottom and 4 coils away from the top. You can go further, but it gets harder around there.</p><p>Once you've broken apart the coils, double check to ensure there are no stray remains of filament that will keep the spring from closing all the way.</p><p>Remove the eyes and nose from the brim and clean up the bottom edges if need be. Insert them into the slots. You can use a drop of glue, but I just snapped them into place.</p><h3>How I Designed This</h3><p>I used Fusion 360 to design this. I based the ears on another model. Once I had the basic design in place, I followed @makeanything3d's tutorials on making Springo's (sometimes he calls them Springo's and sometimes Slingo's. I go back and forth too).</p><p>After a few failures with fused layers, I reached out to @makeanything3d for advice on MyMiniFactory. He suggested using the coil tool in Fusion 360 which is what I did. That's when it started working.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>