Elegoo Mars Array / NanoDLP Overhaul

thingiverse

**Changelog is in a separate description below. I will update every change** 12/28/2019: I forgot the feet stick through the base. I modeled up some feet. Pretty fun actually. Stick 4x M5 25mm studs into the feet holes, secure against the underside with an M5 nut, drop an M5 nut into the feet, twist on/level the printer. If you don;t care that much about leveling, fixed length feet are available. Please let me know what boards you would like to see support for. I will analyze space constraints and try to make it work. I was heavily inspired by fcollingwood's D7 overhaul. I don;t know how to work with meshes, so I had to build this from scratch. Both enclosure sides and the MP1584 holder require bed+object supports. Recommended print orientations are shown The MP1584 mount should be printed in PETG since the 'wings' need to flex. Parts are slightly oversized to accommodate different tolerance printers. V1 will employ heat-set threaded inserts in M3 flavor. I suggest getting an assortment of cheapies from Amazon or similar. This basically reuses the..... frame and screen of the printer. Initial release is for the following hardware: - 24V 28-LED array with driver and optics. This is marketed as an EPAX X1 upgrade, 28-led parallel array, 70W array, etc. - Duet Wifi board. I had an extra. Future releases will add variants for other boards. - [24V (5A minimum)](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JXZ55NR/) power supply with 5.5mm barrel connector. - 2x 60mm 24V fans - 1x 80x25mm 24V fan. - 4.3" Nextion display (Enhanced or basic does not matter. Basic fits better due to lack of battery holder) - 2k/4k HDMI to MIPI display board. I recommend the blue one with stackable Pi size. - Raspberry 3B, 3B+. I may release a back version for the 4, but the 4 is overkill for this size of printer anyway (heck, so is the 3B+). - USB to Micro USB cable no more than 10cm. - [MP1584 buck converter](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/) or preferably a [24VDC to 5VDC 3A power supply](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5JL8WI/). 3A will make sure your 3b+ or 4B has enough juice. The screen will draw direct from the Pi. - Soldering iron and some extra wire Optional Extras: - [Screw mount thermistor](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5MKSLS/) for the heatsink (optional) - [2x Cartridge thermistor](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3SMRLJ) for the heated chamber and base enclosure (optional) - Solid State Relay for chamber heater - [AC powered Mini heater](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797VG636/) for chamber GOALS: - Add a high power array to the Mars in order to reduce print time and prevent print distortion when prints eclipse the edge of the hot spot. - Add cooling for the LCD. The Mars lacks this badly. - Add wireless motion control firmware customization and updates.(NanoDLP / Duet) - Employ a firmware that allows masking (which should be unnecessary unless your panel has uneven pixels) (NanoDLP) - Integrated slicing and network transfer (NanoDLP), perhaps Duet if I can write software to mount the duet micro SD) - Ability to integrate more sensors and adjust homing position and behavior. (Duet) - Ability to create multi-staged peel and retract moves with GCode (NanoDLP and Duet via macro usage). - Integrate the control systems to use one universal power supply (24v for stepper torque/accuracy) - Give the option to return to stock. - Mount the array AT THE PROPER FOCAL LENGTH with increased array cooling (25mm fan) - Controlled airflow passing over all components with intake and exhaust. Either one can be modded to add a filter (filter on intake is recommended, to prevent screen dirt on the bottom). The parts are split as follows: - Front_enclosure.stl holds the nextion display, intake fan, and is otherwise cosmetic. Type will be threaded insert only. - Array_spacer.stl sits around the bottom exhaust fan (DO NOT MAKE IT INTAKE IF YOU WANT YOUR SCREEN TO STAY COOL) and holds the array at the proper height, while preventing angular rotation from M4 screws. An arrow points to the sky. - Back_enclosure.stl which mounts: - Raspberry Pi (HDMI-MIPI on top) - Array driver - Duet wifi (or other board specified in filename) - MP1584 (mounted on Duet) - Rear exhaust fan - Rear power entry and power switch. - Naming specifies type of fasteners it is cut for. - Array_reflector.stl sits on the array and provides surfaces for plastic mirror mounting. M4 screws fasten this down to the heatsink and protrude through to locate the array on the fan adapter. The exhaust side is marked. Wiring: Coming soon ***IMPORTANT*** Regarding the selection of the Duet: The Duet does not draw power from the USB port when it has its own 12-25V input. If your chosen board (in future revisions for SKR, etc) does draw power from USB then the MP1584 may sag voltage too much under load and cause the pi to reboot. ***Internal Wiring*** To connect everything internally, you will need to strip a USB type A to micro USB at the type A end and solder it to the USB contacts on the bottom of the Pi. The jacket-less cable will then route under the pi and out the side with the HDMI to connect to the microcontroller board. There are large test points you can use without risk of damaging the traces. References can be found at the instructables link below: https://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-3-External-Power-for-USB-Ports/ ***External Wiring*** Cut a small notch in the bottom of the rear extension area. Connect USB type A to the Pi from the outside and then route through the notch to the microcontroller before securing the back piece. Assembly: Coming Son