Ender 3/Pro Case [EZABL, BLTouch, Raspberry Pi 3, Mosfet]

thingiverse

Was not happy with the cases for the Ender 3/Pro so I made my own... 10A relay?!? No thanks, I don't want a fire hazard.... then I got very carried away. F3Z File Included Changes: A LOT!!! Only a remix by idea only now. Updates: 3/2/2020 - F3Z and Left Case Raspberry Pi - Raspberry Pi mounting hole was partially filled in... somehow. Supports: Raspberry Pi 3 | 4x Buck Converters | Creality Boards or EZBoard Lite | Drill holes on top cover for EZABL Electronics Cases OR 2x Mosfets | 4x Buck Converters | Creality Boards or EZBoard Lite | EZABL Electronics Case v1, v2, v3, and Pro AND This supports a pin 27 breakout board with the Ender 3 Pro! No I won't be supporting other boards. That is what remixes are for. Fan Guard Used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4183987 Cable Chain Used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 If you have an Ender 3 Pro instead of an Ender 3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3473455 "IT IS GOING TO OVERHEAT!!!": Check and clean out dust from fan once in a while! It collects dust faster than the other fans on the printer. -RPi / Creality Silent Board (Stock vref) Tested 40+ hours straight at 70F room temperature with no issues -Mosfet / Creality Silent Board (dual z, Stock vref) Tested 40+ hours straight at 70F room temperature with no issues -Mosfet / EZBoard Lite (dual z vref) Tested 40+ hours straight at 70F room temperature with no issues Part Cooling PWM Fan Wiring!: I am not going to provide a guide on wiring this up but I will give one tip to get PWM on the part cooling fan with a buck converter. Wire +/- from always on power to buck converter +/- input... then buck converter + output to fan + Wire - from Part Cooling - fan header straight to fan - Buck Converter - output shouldn't have anything connected to it. PWM signal is run though the - not the + ;) One last tip: You can and might think to route the smaller gauge wires under PCBs to increase air flow but MAKE SURE it is not getting pinched anywhere and you have filed down all the sharp edges under the PCBs. You don't want a sharp piece of solder poking through a wire and causing a short/fire. I only did this the last time I finalized the design and has no effect on cooling testing documented. Cooling testing was performed in a worse case scenario. BOM: Zixtec LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter - 10 pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VVXF7YX KNACRO DC 5V, 30A 1-Channel (Knacro also has 12v and 24v versions) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHLYWLT Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6 FYSETC Mosfet - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C4PGXFK TH3D EZBoard Lite https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezboard-lite/