Ender 3 v2 Raspberry Pi 4 Case + Mount with 40mm x 10mm Fan Grill - [Non-standard power source]

thingiverse

This is remix of this case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3721616 This is a sturdy case, with really good airflow. I printed with 100% infill and it looks and feels solid! You don't need supports by the way if you've got half decent cooling for the 'clips' overhang. Only slight modification, which includes: 1) Hidden HDMI + USB Power plugs 2) Add Raspberry pi logo to top part of case 3) Made some mounting for Ender 3 v2 bottom left v-rail The HDMI and USB power plug when you're looking at the Pi from the micro SD side are on the right hand side, which on my setup goes against the Ender's v-rail, so are hidden and inaccessible. Therefore you need an alternative means to power the Raspberry Pi. I did it this way because I wanted the USB and ethernet cable attaching at the back - So the cable are running away, out of site to make things look tidier. Alternative Means of Powering Raspberry Pi 4: 1. Originally, I powered the Pi from the printer itself, which involves the use of a buck converter / voltage stepper, opening the the Ender power supply and attaching to a spare 24v out. A good guide for this is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW9ovo9CHi0&t=405s 2. I later decided to purchase a PoE hat for the Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LoveRPi-Power-Over-Ethernet-Raspberry-Compact-Non-Isolated/dp/B07WD7HXSQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=YMUVAYCU2C6V&dchild=1&keywords=poe+hat+raspberry+pi+4&qid=1614633381&sprefix=peo+hat+ra%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-5 https://thepihut.com/products/mini-power-over-ethernet-poe-expansion-board-for-raspberry-pi-4-no-fan This way, I can still have tidy cables, and power the Pi through the ethernet cable. I recommend the second option, as a) Easier - don't have to open up the Ender 3 v2 b) The voltage to the Pi is more consistent - For some unknown and strange reason (as a buck converter also helps regulate voltage), Power to the Rpi fluctuates when powered from the power supply of the printer (for me at least). c) You can keep the Raspberry Pi switched on, while the printer is off, and actually use it to turn the printer on and off via a smart plug connected to the printer with OctoPrint (I'd recommend a TP link smart plug as it's easier to setup - I used Tuya regrettably, and had to create a workaround using MQTT messages - That was a pain). One thing to note: You'll notice there appears to be 2 holes for the red and green LED lights of the Pi in the buttom case part, but when I printed the part, it turns out these hole are fill in (so you can't see the LEDs. I ended up using a small drill bit and drilling the holes... I wondered why this might but, but realised, it's probably because one of the clips holding the case together goes there also... I opted to break one of the clips and drill holes in favour of being able to see the LEDs, but haven't modified the original part as this seems a bit hacky. Finishing Up I decided this time to print the mounting separate from the case and glue them together with superglue. It prints better that way, you don't need supports and you use less material / time.