Ender 3 Y conversion to linear rods

thingiverse

My conversion Ender 3 to linear rods. Before conversion I had 30-32 Hz on Y axis, now it's 43.25 Hz. Printer works best in range 2000-2500mm/s2 acceleration. Normal speeds are up to 150mm/s for technical parts and 50-80mm/s for organic, like faces and such. Mind you, those numbers are from Klipper. In Marlin think about reducing them for about 1/3. Regained entire 235x234x250 build volume. Bottom frame is replaced with 2x 450mm and 2x 250mm 4040 extrusions to make place for rods. Rods are 2x 450mm fi10 with 3x linear bearings in housing. Electronic enclosure is moved to the left side. One 6020 24V fan reduced to 12 V (for noise purposes) is used for cooling. The old stock enclosure would probably fit inside frame, but I didn't test it. All parts except electronic enclosure should be printed with PETG or CPE. Drill plates are helpers for drilling holes in extrusion in the right places. Rotate them appropriately to drill 5,5mm holes, then rotate drill plates to widen holes to 9mm so screw heads can sink in frame. Don't widen them too deep! Short extrusions have M5 thread tapped. Vertical drill plate is to be used with mine X and Z conversion (Hemera version) or position of Z gantry will not fit bed size and nozzle position. Drill plate is calibrated for distance 60mm from gantry to nozzle. If you are threading holes yourself, use lube or tap drill will ruin threads. Belt tensioner uses M5 square nut and M5x35 screw. On the back, limit switch trigger has M3 thread for inserting M3x20 screw for fine tuning Y 0 position. Limit switch trigger is mounted on one corner (closest to front) of back bearing on the double bearing side. Single bearing side needs place for motor. Two bearings are on the right side if you look at the assembly from the front. Rail mounts needs 2x M5x10 screws and another 2x M5x10 (each) to screw rail mounts covers on top. Aligning rods is a bit tricky. Loose everything, align rail mounts on one side, tighten them and then push bed back/front while tightening mounts as many times as needed to get smooth movement.Then align motor/tensioner/bed belt mount the same way. Belt is fixed to mount with zip ties. Fix belt in slots before mounting belt mount to bed, channel for belt is tight. Parts marked as NutXX are for 4040 mini extrusions. I ordered them by mistake and they use 5mm wide T nuts. They are hard to get (Don't even know how to search for them) so I printed them with M4 holes. If you get normal 4040 extrusion with 6mm slots you don't need those printed. Forces on screws are not pull oriented so those will hold. All required holes are M5 or M3 threaded. They will hold, use appropriate force when tightening. IMPORTANT: Big leveling wheels must be replaced with nuts! You don't want them crash into frame! Get some silicone spacers and you can forget about using them for leveling all the time. What you need: 2x 450mm double slotted 4040 extrusion 2x 250mm double slotted 4040 extrusion 2x 450mm fi10 rods 3x 10mm SC10UU bearings (in housing) 32x M5x10 screws 18x M5 T nuts 8x M5x50 screws 1x M5x35 screw with square nut. Some M3 screws different lengths for electronic enclosure My X and Z conversion used in assembly: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571672 I will merge those two threads when I have time. Print pics: Letters stenc55 @120mm/s, Senua's body 70mm/s 0.2 layer height