ESK8 Controller Mk2

thingiverse

ESK8 Controller Mk2 It's been an age since I logged in to Thingyverse... I really should complete some of my unfinished posts some time. Today I present for your collective delectation a Mk2 version of the electric skateboard controller I did a while ago. I wasn't that satisfied with the lat one as it was: -Over complicated -A bit bulky -A SOB to print nicely ...this one is better. In a nut-shell I bought a Meepo electric skateboard as at the time it was the best one you could get for the money if you were too lazy to build you own. No doubt things have moved on (ho, ho) but as I'm quite happy with it I haven't kept up with developments. If there was one thing I didn't like it was the controller: -Not enough range in the throttle made the skateboard twitchy to use -The battery tended to run out before the skateboard did! ...so I did an update using the same electronics but replacing the throttle with a wheel and an larger potentiometer. This thing is more of the same, just an improvement on the original. You will need: -The electronics out of your old controller (it's a pretty standard board but do be sure yours is the same as the Meepo type) -A 10k "hi-fi" potentiometer (Linear or logarithmic depending on preference, dual or single gang is fine) -The wherewithal to do a little soldering -Optionally some extra / larger 3.7v LiPo batteries -These files and instructions -M3 Nuts & Bolts to hold it together. Or glue if you're a bit gash Construction: 1) Fully dissemble your controller, with care! 2) Print the parts 3) Do a trial fit of the components and make any required adjustments Now comes the fun bit: 4) Take a little time to check and test how the original potentiometer is wired to the controller board, then unplug it 5) Solder the original potentiometer wiring to the new one and test to see if you got it right 6) You can always flip the PCB plug end if you want it to reverse the action 7) Assemble the main parts, glue the cover plates in place and you are done :-D All parts should simply press-fit together but depending on tolerances some fiddling / gluing may be needed. Optional extras: It would be a really, really, good idea if you transferred the lanyard from your old controller the then new one. The holes in the housing should be strong enough but for added safety I'd suggest running the internal end round the nearest PCB post. I've made room to add extra / larger LiPo batteries. Just check your measurements before buying and if you use more than one be sure to wire them to the controller board in parallel, NOT serial. The throttle wheel has an attachment for springs / rubber bands to pass round the nearest PCB post if you like an auto-returning throttle - I don't. Depending on your controller and how you wired the potentiometer it can be set up to fully return in either direction or center. If you like a "clicky" wheel superglue in an appropriately cut piece of that nasty clear plastic packaging most small electronics regrettably come sealed in to the inside of the housing. The end needs to engage with the knobs on the wheel. The wire dangling freely from the PCB is the controller aerial. I'd advise replacing it with a longer one for more reliable communication. Probably best if the new aerials length is a whole number multiple of the original. I didn't include holes for the activity LED's. Print tolerances and it generally pisses down in the miserable UK. Feel free to drill some - the heated end of a (metal, idiot!) paperclip will do the job nicely. Have fun!