Eventorbot Printable Floating Motor Z-Axis

thingiverse

This thing is a series of parts to build a new Z-axis linear motion assembly for the Eventorbot 3d printer. This was primarily designed for those users with the Kickstarter laser cut and welded sheet metal frame, though it may still be beneficial to users who built machines using the tubular steel frame. This upgrade provides the following benefits: Separates bearing fastening from tightening the Y-axis bolts. Making the Y-axis bolts very tight to alleviate wobble and tilt issues will no longer add unnecessary forces to the bearings Ensures that the motor shaft and lead screw are always perfectly aligned. Allows the entire Z-axis, including motor, to be removed as one piece. For sheet metal frame machines (Kickstarter full kits) the motor can now be removed along with the Z-axis sub-frame assembly, making maintenance and upgrades much easier and reducing risk of damaging the Z-axis flexible motor coupler Designed to utilize a limit switch for the Z-axis end stop (a switch like this with 2mm mounting holes spaced 9mm apart should work . Don't forget to check Instructions for some important details! Please Note: I have not completed testing with this part. I made the mistake of using PLA thinking my motor would not get too warm. I was wrong! I also had problems with bearing fit due to existing Z-axis issues with my machine and the bearings did not go in perfectly straight. However thanks to user maso from Eventorbot Forum (Thingiverse user maso27) I have received positive feedback and encouragement to post this design. My print had excellent results with eliminating wobble and rotation on the Y-axis, as well as improving overall Z-axis speed, but due to bearing misalignment the axis was "sticky" making it impossible to print usable parts. If you print this on a properly working printer without major Z-axis consistency or Y-axis wobble issues I am confident it should work. I am having these parts professionally printed so I can get my machine running again and once I do I will post my own photos of the parts! I was also advised by maso to utilize a thin layer of rubber in between the Z-axis carriage and the Y assembly to prevent rotational movement. I did not experience this problem with my PLA printed part but it may depend on the material you use and the paint (or lack thereof) on your metal parts. Instructions Motor Mount part MUST be printed in a heat-resistant plastic (ABS, HIPS, etc.) or it will likely warp when the motor gets warm! The following parts are required for assembly: 2x M5 x 35 bolts (for Y-carriage mount) 3x M5 x 30 bolts (for rod supports) 5x M5 nuts 2x M5 lock washer 2x M5 flat washer 6x M3 x 8mm screws (for end cap fastening and rod set screws) 6x M3 nuts 2x 5/16-18 nuts (for lead screw) 2x M2.2 x 13mm sheet metal screws (for limit switch) Optionally you may add or substitute: M3 x 8mm set screws for rod supports Additonal M3 nuts for rod support set screws 1/4-16 Acme rod (to replace lead screw) 1/4-16 Acme rod hex nut (to replace lead screw nuts) 5mm x 1/4" flexible motor coupler (if using Acme lead screw) Additional M5 screws if you choose to utilize the extra 2 Y-axis mounting holes (probably not necessary) If using US size hardware as in the original kit, you can substitute the following screw sizes: 10 screws instead of M5 (1.5" and 1" respectively) 6 screws instead of M3 (1/2" length) 2 (1/2" length) wood or sheet metal screws for limit switch. I used #2 wood screws for the limit switch since they were readily available. I used metric hardware for the rest. The Acme nuts and 5/16 nuts should be interchangable -- glue or PTFE pipe tape may help provide a tight and secure fit.