ezt3d - Upgraded Controller MKS Gen_L

thingiverse

So out of curiosity I bought the cheapest printer in ebay - here in Australia. IT's an ezt3d delta kossel. I won't bore you with the details, there are many shortcomings. But it does print exceptionally well for a delta! IT's just getting it to print that's a pain. The shipped controller board is a custom ezt3d STM32 controller, rather nice hardware specs, but the most awful firmware ever. And no usb port to upgrade!. Who builds a firmware that can't read more than 8 char of a filename, I've not seen that since the days of DOS. The straw that broke the camels back was that the heat bed get's disabled at about layer 20. And you can't control that. I had switched to a glass bed, because I got sick of gouging holes in the shipped build tack sticker, but with a glass bed the parts detach on about layer 30. So frustrating that you can't even disable the bed heater getting switched off. I gave up trying to reflash the unit using what I think is the diagnostic port, as it seems too hard to get a firmware stack setup to flash into it.... So - I'm upgrading it to a MKS Base Gen L. This unit seems to fit in place quite well, I did need to re route the extruder wires, but no big deal. most of the connectors plug in. But I did have to replace the main power leads and mod the heatbed connector. This needs to be done carefully as they are quite high current on this printer. The base part simply sticks with hot melt glue to the acrylic base. Then the MKS base screws in with 3mm*6mm hex bolts. The fan is a very cheap 80mm*15mm fan, which is also exceptionally quiet. The fan assembly also hot melt glues onto the base. I printed this using my trusty Tronxy X1, just used 0.2mm layer and I went for 60% infill, but should easily cope with 20%. Oh and those square tabs are simply to increase the adhesion at the corners so they don't lift. I print onto a frp board and unfortunately they stopped making the old uhu sticks. The new uhu sticks do not stick as well as the old, so I've taken to adding these extra tabs to corners. Just crack them off and all is good.. (or drill a hole and use them to mount instead of hot melt.) Any way... If you have been frustrated by the piece of crap EZT3d printer here is a way forward! Oh and also before you switch that piece of crap on again replace that IEC connector with a proper 3 wire one with a fuse. The standard one is NOT EARTHED! And that power supply is probably shonky so I would not have it powered up without a proper earth. Next upgrades for this printer - RepRap Full graphics display, then I might rebuild it with a full kossel stock frame, the acrylic is easy to break.