Face Shield Visor with Bed Adhesion Tabs

thingiverse

UPDATED: 2020-06-05 - I converted the tabs to a style that tears off easily with a little twist or flush cutters. The other style breaks off well in Cura, but not in some other slicers. Also, this style of bed adhesion tab doesn't create a sharp edge along the person's head, reducing the cleanup afterwards. Note though, the 3mf project files are setup for a 0.6mm nozzle, so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle you will need to change your layer heights (75% of your nozzle width) and line widths (115 to 150% of your nozzle width). I just upgraded my extruder to a direct drive Bondtech BMG-M w/ Slice Engineering Magnum Hot End and man it makes a HUGE difference to my print quality. PETG doesn't ooze as much with direct drive and I'm using a lot less retraction. 2020-05-08 - The first 50+ of these printed well with only a little sticking of the band to the visor with the original STL, but I changed to a cheaper PETG and even with a lot of calibration work, it still liked to stick too much. So, I've edited the design and added about 0.08mm more clearance. None of these bands have stuck and they still hold 0.010" film very well. When I get a chance, I may try reducing that gap increase to 0.04mm and see how it goes. AmazonBasics filament used to be really good (the first 50+ were printed in this filamanet, but the new AmazonBasics is shrink wrapped instead of vacuum sealed and doesn't have any desiccant, so it needed to be dehydrated in an oven (VERY CAREFULLY, preheat first BEFORE putting the filament in) or easier to just use a dehydrator before printing. You can see the <a href="https://www.printdry.com/how-to-dry-filaments/">dehydrating times here</a>, but I'd consider a regular food dehydrator before buying the PrintDry itself. The Excalibur Dehydrators are very well built and very powerful. PURPOSE: I saw this model on CNC Kitchen's Youtube Channel where he showed how to speed up the print and add tabs in PrusaSlicer. I use Cura, so I found my own way to add tabs to the ear pieces so they don't lift off the bed during printing, but don't add much time for that little bit of much needed extra bed adhesion. Because of how Cura prints the overlapping models and the tabs are only 1 layer height, they simply tear away easily after the print is done. There is a disclaimer at the very bottom that you must understand and accept in order to use this model. If you would like to help with the costs of making these and delivering them to medical professionals, you can contribute or even just share my GoFundMe Link here, please: https://www.gofundme.com/f/face-shields-project-near-and-far?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1 I’m including my Cura v4.6 project files for the CR-10S Pro and the Ender 5 Plus. Keep in mind that these are setup for my printers and even if you have the same model they may not work right out of the box. You will likely have to customize them. I just changed from opaque Purple to translucent Blue and had to bump my temperature up to get stronger layers. Small things can make for some big differences in some of the settings. If any "Tip Designer" tips are given for this remix, they will be used to support the printing and assembling of these shields for medical care workers, and thank you! I shipped out the first batch of about 12 of them. The second batch that is going out will be over 20 now at this point. I am working full time, so these are being made in the mornings, at lunch, in the afternoons, and on the weekends. The design and slicer settings are being tweaked in the evenings as I try new things to reduce the stringing and improve the print quality without losing much speed. PRINT QUALITY IN THE PICTURES: The rough quality is on purpose: I have gotten the print time down to between either 1.5 and 1.7 hours on these depending on how I do the visor. I have the print quality turned down so that my Creality CR-10S Pro with its 8bit OEM controller board can keep up. I am planning on upgrading to a 32bit SKR V1.4 Turbo controller with TMC2209 drivers. I am pushing this printer and especially this PETG filament as fast as I can print it, on purpose. I usually print PETG at 50 to 75% of the speed that I would print PLA. PLA is a lot more forgiving. CREDITS: This Remix Face Shield is directly based on "Gesichtsschutz by Wessix" which was based on "3d printed face shield A4 sheet Autolock Closed TOP" by HanochH https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4238300 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4235098 PARTS AND STEPS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY: * 1 each 3D Printed Face Shield Frame * 1 each A4 Sized (210 × 297 mm or 8.27 × 11.69") Sheet of Clear Plastic Film: Polycarbonate, PET, or Acetate/Mylar films are known to work. * Film can actually be up to 12.125" or 308mm wide and still work. * Ideally,film should be between 0.010" (10 mil) and 0.020" thick (20 mil) (or between 0.25mm to 0.5mm). A little less than 0.010" or 10 mil should be okay. * Some light post processing of the frame to remove any rough spots via nippers, files, sand paper, or whatever methods you like * 1 pair of something (or a combination of somethings) from this list: 3/8" or 10mm Elastic with Adjustable Buckles, 3/8" Velcro, even Replacement Bra Straps, Bra Strap Holders or these Bra Strap Holders, or Hair Ties w/ separate 3d printed face mask hook (not included, search Thingiverse for it.) ** Because of how difficult elastic is to find, I've found various ways to make these hug the face. Use some creativity. * Some thought given to sizing / comfort for the person that is going to wear this for 12+ hours On the first batch, I sewed on bra straps holder and their hooks. They were nice and stretchy and the hooks worked well once bent Depending on what is available in your area, you may need to come up with a slightly different solution. Next time I may use some soft touch velcro to attach to a single bra strap holder for the elastic and adjustability and only use one bra . Elastic hair ties and an adjustable hook plate 3d printed would work as well. The film is slid in between the visor and the front band long ways or width wise. The band can handle up to 12+1/8" or 308mm of film and still have a little room for wiggling. Before trying to slide the film into place, use a flat thin metal tool to make sure the band is loose and smooth inside from one side to the other. There could be a little tiny blob or zit of plastic in there needs to be knocked out of the way. With one hand use gentle force to push the film in. With your other hand use your fingers to move the band up and down a little bit. The motion of the front band helps the film slide into place as you are pushing genlty. HEAT FORMING: After you slide the film into the mask carefully. (Work the band genlty as you gently try to slide the sheet up. If you are forcing the sheet you are going to wrinkle / crinkle it; ask me how I know.) Once the sheet is in place (maybe a 1/4" sticking up past the band) Use a heatgun on low to medium or a hair dryer on high to heat up the plastic. Do this quickly to get the sheet to melt and fold over BEFORE the visor heats up and melts. You can use a piece of aluminum foil folded over a few times to block some of the heat hitting the mask if you wrap it around the visor band so that only the plastic sheet is exposed. This foil also helps prevent the face mask from warping as hot air spills over the band. It's better to use more heat for less time than it is to use less heat for longer. SUMMARY OF HOW I CREATED THIS IN CURA V4.6: (For your information, only. You don't have to do this part unless you want to.) * Added the model by Wessix. * Added a generic cylinder model from thingiverse. * Entered resize mode on the cylinder. I turned off "Uniform Scaling". * Resized the cylinder Z height to the initial layer height 0.28mm. * Resized the cylinder X/Y to 12 x 20mm. * Turned off Snap Rotation and rotated the flattened elliptical discs to be in line with the ear pieces and moved them to the ends. * After everything was placed the way I wanted it, shift+clicked all three items (face shield, plus two elliptical discs) right clicked, and chose "group" so they would be all linked together. * Under Preferences->Configure Cura, I turned off "Automatically drop models to the build plate" so that the 3d blocks I used to define "Per Model Settings" would let me place them up in the air. * I added a simple 3d Block Region (Import any 3D cube and resize it to 155 x 90 x 35) at a z height of 13.88 so that when I click that region and I click the button on the left bar "Per Model Settings" icon then chose "Modify settings for overlaps" from those options. In that region (the upper visor area only) I am only using 2 walls as that doesn't need to be quite as strong. * On my 2 Each Project I just used different sized imported 3d cube models butted up against each other so that the frames could "nest" with each other better. CURA V4.6 PROJECT FILE INFORMATION: The attached CuraV4.6 project file (.3mf) is setup for use with my specific Creality CR-10S Pro Printer which has a number of upgrades / changes to it. Do not expect this project file to work for you right off the bat and before you run any code generated by it, either switch it over to YOUR tested printer profile or be prepared for possible problems up to and including crashing your print head if your printer is different from mine. I only include this file so you can see what all I did. MY 0.4mm NOZZLE PRINT SETTINGS: Using the following settings as a basis for my prints, I am able to print one in between 1.5 and 1.75 hours. Some "default" level settings cause this print to take up to 5 hours to complete which just isn't necessary. The 3mf project file contains my 0.6mm nozzle print settings. I can print 2 in 1.6 hours using a 0.6 nozzle. I could probably get that down to under 1.5 hours if I pushed it further, but I'm happy with the results. * (*)Initial Layer Height: 0.32 mm * (*)Layer Height: 0.28mm * Line Width: 0.6mm * Wall Line Count: 4 * Top/Bottom layers: 3 (May be able to turn this off) * Top and Bottom Patterns: Zig Zag (This is mainly used for the tabs themselves.) * Fill Gaps Between Walls: Nowhere * Filter Out Tiny Gaps: Enabled * Z Seam Alignment: Shortest * Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam * Skin Overlap Percentage: 7% SOME MORE OF MY PRINT SETTINGS, SOME OF WHICH WILL NEED TO BE CHANGED FOR YOUR PRINTER AND MATERIAL CHOICES: Since I am using PETG (these next settings could vary based on your printer and material chosen): * Initial Printing Temperature: 238 * Printing Temperature: 237 * Horizontal Expansion 0.02 (this is only necessary for my hotter filament to keep the visor band from sticking to the visor.) * Build Plate Temperature: 75 * Print Speed: 60 * Top/Bottom Speed: 30 * Travel Speed: 170 * Initial Layer Print Speed: 20 * Initial Layer Travel Speed: 125 * Retraction Distance: 5 * Retraction Speed: 55 * Retraction Prime Speed: 20 * Retract On Layer Change: Enabled * Retract Before Outer Wall: Enabled * Initial Fan Speed: 0 * Minimum Fan Speed: 15 * Regular Fan Speed: 15 * Maximum Fan Speed 25 * Minimum Layer Time: 6 * No Support / No Bed Adhesion (No Raft, No Brim... just the built in tabs in this model) * Max Resolution: 0.5 (Default was 0.05, but this is excessive for the Creality printers.) * Max Travel Resolution: 0.5 (Default was 0.04, but again, excessive for Creality printers.) * Max Deviation: 0.05 (Default was 0.0225, but again, excessive) * Use Adaptive Layers: Enabled * (*)Adaptive Layers Maximum Variation: 0.04 * (*)Adaptive Layers Variation Step Size: 0.04 (*) This last setting, above, allows for a small layer change for added detail in a couple of spots without adding a lot of time. If you turn off Adaptive Layers and set the Layer Heights to 0.32, then you are looking at about a 15 minute per part savings, or 30 minutes on printing a pair of them. Yes, this description was long, but there was a lot that I had to figure out when I chose to make some of these for my family in the medical field. So, I'm trying to share that information with you. DISCLAIMER: This remixed and modified prototype 3D model has not been tested by any laboratories so therefore it is also not approved by any regulatory agency. It is created with the aim of providing emergency protective material to medical professionals who need it and are able to utilize something of this nature versus having nothing at all considering the supplies shortage. It is not a replacement for a certified face shield, but it may provide better protection than not having anything at all. No guarantees are provided or implied in any way shape or form. Use this face shield at your own risk. Any and all of the information contained in here may contain errors, omissions, mistakes or any other problem. The user of any of this information assumes all risks.