Fiberflex 40D printing profile.

prusaprinters

<p>Tuned profile for printing with Fiberflex 40D filament.<br/> Optimized for use with supports, HQ surface finish and multiple parts printed at once.</p> <p>Out of the box, you get a little bit of stringing, and also great finish and flat seams. Below I also explain, how to get rid of stringing if you wish.</p> <p>Background: I was asked to print organic model in this filament 33 times. Since this was a substantial number, I thought I'd give it a spin and tweaked the profile a bit.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>Short rundown of elements I tweaked:</p> <p><u>Printer Settings</u></p> <p><b>intro line</b>: less filament pushed to prevent the filament from tangling in gears. VERY helpful!</p> <p>rest default</p> <p><u>Filament Settings</u><br/> Optimized for rather small, organic and detailed models. Printed as a batch of multiple at once.</p> <p><b>temp</b>: We move slow in moments, so not to fry the layers beneath I turned it down to 205 (within the spec from producer). Prevents the details from overheating.</p> <p><b>Extrusion Multiplier</b>: calculated according to this <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257">test</a>.</p> <p><b>Cooling</b>: Tuned so that the overhangs and details come out decent. It's set to auto, and I observed that this also impacts the auto print speed I have set up in "print settings"- be aware before you change one or the other.</p> <p><b>Filament Overrides</b>: Highly tested part of this profile. Currently it allows for a little bit of stringing (easily cleaned with heat gun) and nice seams. If you want to have no stringing, and seams don't need to be perfect - ditch the "extra length on restart" and change the retraction length to 2 mm. Should do the trick. Z lift is VERY important here, since the filament is flexible, the parts wobble on the tray, and this causes the extruder to knock them down if you don't raise it during travel. Wiping is also doing it's magic!</p> <p><b>K-Factor</b>: Did the test and had seen no visible change, left it though on 0.2.</p> <p><u>Print Settings</u><br/> Optimized for organic, flexible prints - multiple parts at once.</p> <p><b>Shell thickness top/bottom</b>: The filament cooked in the small details, so I left the shell to be only 2 perimeters and no solid infill. Standard infil though is important. Change if you need some rigidity.</p> <p><b>Support Material</b>: Highly tweaked tab. Optimized for making sure the supports help to stabilize the part and anchor (this filament tends to warp a little, and that is why you should also have some internal structure with infill of about 15% or more)<br/> but also for the supports to detach pretty easily. In the end I used support painting, so give it a try, or switch to auto generate.</p> <p><b>Speed</b>: I've found the Auto Speed to do a very good job, if you have cooling part of the filament tab set up properly, and you specify reasonable maximum speed (I like the one currently there). I just made sure that the supports and infill get to be printed in reasonable pace. Rule of thumb: VERY small detail like chimney on the benchy, should oscilate around 5mm/s and normal structures are ok to be printed with high level of detail in about 15mm/s.</p> <p>I also turned off the elephant foot compensation, and set the travel speed to 150mm/s.</p> <p>I believe that this material can be optimized to get "good enough" looking parts and print much faster - if you raise the temperature, and tweak the speed and cooling. Just be prepared that if your model geometry finishes on top with some small elements (again, "chimney on the benchy" or smaller), you risk frying these parts.</p> <p>I print on PEI textured sheet cleaned with alcohol and without any additives.</p> <p>If you use - please comment, I'd be happy to see.<br/> I do believe this is a GREAT filament to work with, and you can easily decide how much flex do you want in your part with perimiters and infill.</p> <p>Happy flexible printing.</p>