Frankenstein Light Switch Plate

prusaprinters

<p>"Igor, throw the switch!"</p><p>"Yes, master."</p><h3>Instructions</h3><p>Check out the 2022 updated version posted here:</p><p><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/161850-frankenstein-lightswitch-plate-2022-version">https://www.printables.com/model/161850-frankenstein-lightswitch-plate-2022-version</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Update:</p><p>It's coming up on Halloween so I figured it's high time I add versions<i>without</i> the built-in supports that have been giving some printers fits. Use the switchplate files: "xxx_nosupport.stl" and turn on the supports option in your slicer.</p><p>Update:</p><p>Just added: a 3 switch version for "Decora" paddle-type switches. It uses the same paddlenubbin used for the 1 switch version, and the same "Nx" blade used for the multi-switch (standard-type) switch plate. (If I get too many more versions, I'll need to add switchplate configurator utility.)</p><p>Update:</p><p>Just added: a single switch version for "Decora" paddle-type switches (<a href="http://store.leviton.com/1-Gang-Single-Various-Available-WSS0S-D0/dp/B00700SHBW#.VO4DJ_nF-ws">http://store.leviton.com/1-Gang-Single-Various-Available-WSS0S-D0/dp/B00700SHBW#.VO4DJ_nF-ws</a>). You'll need the paddle_switchplate, paddlenubbin, and the madsci_blade. This version is a little different: because the modern looking paddle would look out of place, I hid it entirely underneath the switchplate and it uses a nubbin piece that fits through the plate.</p><p>Update:</p><p>I've added 2 switch and 3 switch versions! The same nubbin part (1 per switch) is used for all versions. The standard blade part is used for the standard 1 switch plate, but the Nx blade (1 per switch) is used for the 2x and 3x plates.</p><p>Update:</p><p>I've also added an alternate version of the nubbin that prints on its side (and without support ribs). Use this version if your printer handles bridges fairly well.</p><p>Printed in PLA with 0.2mm layers, 3 perimeter shells, and 20% infill. (You might want to print the plate part a little hotter than normal to insure good layer adhesion.)</p><p>Rotating the plate + or - 45 degrees before slicing (or alternately, setting the infill angle to 0 or 90 degrees) will make the top infill lines run with the grain of the "wood", for a more refined look, or else across the grain, for a rough-sawn look. You'll have to preview the slicer output to see which orientation of the top layer lines you end up with.</p><p>All parts print without support, but the switch plate and nubbin have ribs that break away before assembly. If you have adhesion trouble with the built-in support ribs, try printing with a 1 layer thick raft.</p><p>Category: Decor</p>