Gear Clock

thingiverse

This originated, from open-sourced sharing of LUKE’S 3D at https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/gear-clock-lukes3d. Friction was very high in his design, so accuracy was terrible with the gear teeth skipping. I modified it: 1) To run on a 5 VDC stepping motor rather than his commercial clock-works. 2) Changed both number wheels to make printing in two colors possible by using my own numbers so they can be raised up but using his teeth of 10 teeth per hour. 3) The Hour gear is now printed in two steps – one for the back and one for the front. The back has four little bumps to reduce any friction from touching the face-plate. The two halves of the hour gear have a small notch to help align the top and bottom correctly. Super-glue was used. 4) The face body is printed in two parts so the pointer could be added. Super-glue was used. Be sure to align the pointer toward the micro-USB port in the back portion. 5) The back portion has a place for the circuit board and mini-USB to nestle 6) The drive gear that is fitted onto the stepping motor has a raised asterisk. 7) The three idle gears are now fitted onto small ball bearings to reduce friction. 8) All dimensions were tightened to be tighter, so the Hour gear no longer skips. 9) The minute “wagon-Wheel” should be glued to the tight-fitting minute idle gear. 10) A daub of 5-minute epoxy was applied to: a. the two side ports on the motor. Be sure the motor output ridge is centered in the face hole. b. the bottom of the mini-USB card c. in the four corners of the circuit board. d. Around the three idle bearings. Be careful to not get any on the shaft but is okay on the bearing shield. e. Epoxy is good since it can be un-glued with a tap of a chisel if needed. See WORD document for details