GoPro Scuba Tray

thingiverse

This is a total re-work of my original design. You will notice fewer screw holes if you looked at the original ( that one is pulled down). Its meant to be either printed as a single piece laying on its back, or epoxied together. There are two screw holes in the tops plates and the tops of the handles. They are there to help you align the top and get it on straight. Using all screws is just too loose. The frame tweaks too easily if you use just screws. You will notice a lack of mounting points for your gopro. That is intentional. I do not like printed mounting points. They can break, They dont always print accuratly, and they are just a pain to draw. This tray system uses Gopro stick on mounting points. They use 3M adhesive pads that just dont let go. If you are concerned. you can tether the camera to the tray if you like. You have several options here: You can print a complete tray designed to hold either 1 or 2 lights on the top plate, or you can print a single base separate from the top plate. There is also a version that has stabilizer tabs on the back. This model has to be printed in two pieces as the tabs prevent you from laying the tray on its back. The stabilizer tabs are there to attach a simple ball and socket tube handle on either side of the base. This gives you a grip point that is 90 degrees off from either of the vertical grips. It can also be used as a tripod leg to stabilize your camera should you set it down to film something. I recommend a 10-15mm stainless 3m screw to attach it. I did not taper the screw hole so it will affect how your tray sits on the deck. Its so top heavy it needs to lay down anyway. There are also 2 top plates to choose from. One holds a single light attachment point, the other can hold two. Im using the larger Suptig LED light and I find that one is Okay, but two is better. The two plate design is meant to hold two of those lights with about 2mm between them. When you mount them, it wouldnt hurt to try and add a few degrees of angle so that the lights shine outward a little more. The stabilizer pods will print just as they sit. Dont get carried away if you're trimming a brim off the bottom of the pods. You want them to fit tight and stay put. I wouldnt use 100% infil on the base. It tends to twist and bend. Any kind of infill pattern at 25%-50% should be fine. You can go higher if you want, just be sure to have at least 3 or 4 walls as a strong foundation for the infill. I recommend PLA+ or PETG.