Hiprecy LEO - Marlin 1.1.9 Firmware

thingiverse

<b>These are based on the stock 1.1.9 Hiprecy LEO firmware that is available on Github. Included are three versions as detailed below.</b> <b>Version 1:</b> The stock unaltered firmware from Github. <b>Version 2:</b> The stock firmware with the following corrections and improvements: -Linear Advance enabled -Z Axis Calibration improved -Homing Speeds increased slightly -Corrected motor steps -Corrected bed size -Corrected hotend max temp -Default X/Y Acceleration lowered -Default Jerk values adjusted <b>Version 3:</b> Version 2 but for users with Dual Z Stepper drivers. <b>ABL GCode file:</b> This file can be put on your SD card to run the bed leveling routine whenever needed. This file will save the results to the EEPROM for future use. <b>A few notes:</b> Linear Advance makes quite a difference on this printer. I included a photo of two calibration cubes I printed, one with Linear Advance and one without. My default value of 0.12 was pretty close to perfect in my case. You can run the calibration print and fine tune the K value in your slicer if needed. The slicer profiles I have uploaded have the GCode added for this. The Default X/Y Acceleration values in the stock firmware are too high and unusable. I lowered them to 600 but they can be further fine tuned in your slicer if you feel the need. The slicer profiles I have uploaded have the GCode added for this. My LEO came with a Teflon lined hotend and the temp was limited to 250. This printer is advertised as "All Metal" with a max hotend temp of 275. I have corrected the max temp but keep in mind that if yours has Teflon in the heatbreak like mine did, it would be inadvisable (because of toxic fumes) to use temps over 250 unless you change to an all metal hotend. The Z Axis Calibration current in the stock firmware is set to 1000 (over twice as much as it should be). This causes the soft rattle you should get when the X axis hits the stops to be very noisy and rough. It also causes bounce back and imprecise calibration. I have corrected this and also lowered the distance past Z Max a bit so the rattle doesn't go on as long. Remember that any time you flash firmware the printer needs to be turned off and back on, then perform a factory reset in the LCD menu. Write down your Z offset beforehand and adjust it back to that amount after the reset. <b>Dual Z Stepper Driver Instructions:</b> If you want to change to a dual Z axis stepper driver setup, do the following. Obtain another Fysetc TMC2130 v1.2 stepper driver. Access bottom panel with all power disconnected. Remove the current Z driver from its socket. Install it in the E1 socket. Install the newly obtained driver in the E2 socket. Don't forget to install the heatsink on it. Move the Z motor wiring connectors from the Z1 and Z2 sockets to the E1 and E2 sockets. Refer to the photo included. I would also suggest adding a second fan using my Dual 40mm fan mount. Put the bottom cover back on and power up. Install the Dual Z Mod firmware and you are all set. [Simplify3D Profiles for LEO](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4176426) [PrusaSlicer Profiles for LEO](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4171830) <b>Update 3-11-20:</b> Default K value changed. See above. <b>Update 3-26-20:</b> More testing and adjusting done. Dual Z driver version added (see above for more info). Performed more testing with S Curve Acceleration and found no result that was not better with it turned off so removed that version. I am getting very nice prints with these latest adjustments when combined with my profiles. <b>Update 6-25-20:</b> I have added the stock LCD firmware to the files.