Icarus - QIDI X-Plus / I-Mate (S) Carriage for Sherpa Mini R1 & Dragon / Mosquito

thingiverse

<h2>The design files and instructions have been moved:<br><br> <a href=https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/81321-icarus-qidi-x-plus-i-mate-s-carriage-for-sherpa-mi>Icarus - QIDI X-Plus / I-Mate (S) Carriage for Sherpa Mini R1 & Dragon / Mosquito</a></h2> Update November 24, 2021 New belt tensioner: The new Icarus belt tensioner for open belts has been tested now for a few weeks with no issues. It is compatible with the current version of Icarus so there is no need for a reprint, the same carriage is used for both stock (closed) belts and open belts. If you're looking to replace your belts and pulleys to “industry standard” GT2 this should be happy news. The tensioner needs an M3 heated insert installed (or M3 nut) and the belt peg a 30 mm M3 socket head through it, I will not cover this in the assembly guide, it should be pretty self explanatory. These parts are already included in the BOM. Meanwhile, the actual belt peg was refreshed and the new version has a hole for the socket head, this hole can just be ignored if you use a stock (closed) belt. The new files to print are: icarus-belt-peg-1.2.stl icarus-belt-tensioner-1.0.stl Also, I've added a back to stock firmware gcode you can print if you want to go back to stock firmware settings for whatever reason, you will find it further down on the page. Update November 9, 2021 Assembly guide: The step by step assembly guide has been updated below and new pictures have been added. A video was posted earlier, it's posted just below. Update October 25, 2021 Icarus 1.2.1 has been released. It is just a facelift release with small adjustments. Changes: Added a window below the PCB holder where cables can be routed through instead of around. Other very minor aethetic fixes. Fan duct updated to 1.3.1, minor fixes. Hotend mounts updated to 1.1, minor fixes. If you printed 1.2.0 already there is no need to reprint unless you really want to. About Icarus is a strong, lightweight and dimensionally accurate one-piece carriage for the QIDI X-Plus and I-Mate (S) that was designed focusing on strength and ease of maintenance while keeping it very lightweight. The PCB snaps in place, no need for any screws. The whole carriage is very light and only around 70 g depending on infill and filament type used and the extruder and hotend are easily accessible without removing any other parts. Once the carriage is installed, there is no play between the bearings and the carriage. Icarus is using the new high quality and increasingly popular lightweight Sherpa Mini R1 dual gear extruder and Dragon or Mosquito hotend. The extruder has a 50:10 gear ratio, is ready to print flexible filament directly and weighs only around 120 g including motor. This makes the Icarus printhead very lightweight, allowing for higher print speeds as there is less mass to move around when printing. This means the Icarus printhead is more than 250g lighter than stock. Why? I have earlier developed the Hercules mod. While print quality with Hercules is just as good as this, the BMG extruder and the V6 groove mount are not ideal for flexible filaments. This design uses a rigid mount and has a much shorter filament path from the extruder to the hotend. I also wanted to offer a truly lightweight option which this is. What to print: Print these files: icarus-1.2.1-for-sherpa-mini-r1-normal.stl sherpa-mini-r1-dragon-mount-1.1.stl icarus-dial-holder-1.0.stl icarus-belt-peg-1.2.stl icarus-fan-duct-1.3.1.stl icarus-sherpa-mini-r1-dragon-and-mosquito-ptfe-cutting-jig-1.0.stl If you're using a Mosquito hotend instead of Dragon, print this instead: sherpa-mini-r1-mosquito-mount-1.1.stl BOM - Bill of Materials I buy most of my 3D printer parts from Trianglelab. Shipping takes a while from China but quality is excellent on the Trianglelab products and the prices are good. I will link to a couple of different stores for each product as sometimes one is out of stock, you obviously only need one from each row. I will also link to Banggood, sometimes you can find they're cheaper. I might add more stores to the BOM later but it's a lot of work keeping it updated and current so I will try to keep it short. Printer You probably already have the printer but if not, here are a couple of good places to buy it from, I've used both. QIDI X-Plus Printer AliExpress Banggood QIDI I-Mate S Printer AliExpress Banggood Hotend / Extruder You can go with either Standard Flow or High Flow Dragon, I have both and they're both great. Dragon Hotend AliExpress AliExpress Banggood Sherpa Mini R1 Extruder (genuine) AliExpress Banggood 6x20MM 24V 60W Heater Cartridge AliExpress AliExpress Banggood T-K500 Thermocouple (3 x 15 mm) AliExpress AliExpress 24 V 4010 fan AliExpress AliExpress Fasteners You need some M3 hex bolts (socket head) at various lengths. It's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and many more. Heated M3 inserts are required too, for example for attaching the fan duct to the carriage, you will find out more about this later in the build. 440 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap Kit AliExpress M3 Heated Inserts (13 pcs needed) AliExpress AliExpress Tools You also need a JST crimping tool and some JST-XH terminals and connectors. I'm using this IWISS crimping tool which is inexpensive and is doing a good job. A digital dial indicator is optional but it's recommended so you can level the bed perfectly. A soldering iron is needed too for the heated inserts. IWS-2820M Crimping Tool + Terminals & Connectors AliExpress Digital Dial Indicator AliExpress AliExpress Soldering Iron AliExpress Banggood Optional Parts These parts are optional. You can use the extruder PCB and blower fan from one of your old Qidi printheads. The other parts are spares that are good to have on hand except for the Energetic PEI sheet which is recommended. 5015 blower fan 24V AliExpress AliExpress Dragon heatbreak AliExpress AliExpress Dragon heatblock AliExpress AliExpress Plated Copper T-V6 Nozzle AliExpress AliExpress Banggood Hardened Steel T-V6 Nozzle AliExpress AliExpress Banggood Energetic QIDI X-Plus Powder Coated PEI AliExpress Qidi extruder PCB AliExpress How do I use the Dial Indicator Holder? You can achieve perfect bed level in about a minute without removing any parts / carriage. As the dial holder is in front of the carriage it doesn't measure on top of the bed leveling screws but it doesn't matter for accuracy, we still achieve perfect bed level. The script checks the bed level on three different spots on the bed in a triangular pattern. Adjust the bed leveling screw closest to where it measures and by the time the script has looped three times the bed will be perfectly level. Copy to your USB and just print it like you would a normal model: qidi-xplus-imate-icarus-dial-bed-leveling-script.gcode Caution! The dial holder attachment should not be inserted during normal prints, it may hit the frame and break! Step Files The source step files for the current version of Icarus can be downloaded here if you like to edit or remix yourself: icarus-1.2.1-and-hotend-mounts-step-files.zip Print Settings Print the carriage in high temp resistant filament. I recommend using Polycarbonate (PC), a PC blend such as PC-FR (flame retardant PC), PC-CF (PC with Carbon Fibre) or PA-CF (Nylon with Carbon Fibre). This PA-CF should be a great option: eSUN Carbon Fiber Filled Nylon Filament 1.75mm 1KG To summarize, print the parts in PC if you can to be on the safe side. Print all parts in 0.2 mm layer height using a 0.4 mm nozzle. I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports. The optional dial holder needs some supports but is easy to print. Notice: If for some reason you find the carriage sits too tight or too loose you can print one of the other carriages with narrower or wider clearance for the bearings. It also depends on slicer settings so make sure you dial in flow before you start. Precaution! Before you start, please ensure you use the parts in the BOM only. It's very important to use a high quality thermocouple that is rated for 500 C for example, the stock Qidi thermocouple is only rated at 300 C. If you want to increase the print temp beyond 300 C (stock) you can enable it in firmware, I have commented it there. Do the mod at your own risk. Never leave your printer unattended, stock or not. Assembly Instructions Just below is a picture of the assembled unit. This carriage was printed using another Icarus 1.2 carriage with Orbiter 1.5 and Trianglelab Dragon Standard Flow at the recommended print settings. But we start the guide from scratch. Notice: If your Dragon hotend has a V6 groove mount installed, remove it now, it is secured with two screws from below the top of the heatsink. We do not use the groove mount with the Icarus build. Insert 4 brass insert using a soldering tool to the bottom of the carriage. Press it slowly then once it's almost fully in, turn the carriage around so it's standing up and then press down the whole carriage for 10 seconds on a flat high temp resistant surface. The backside of the QIDI bed plate is perfect for example. Do the same for the dragon mount, the blower fan mount, the dial holder and the ribbon cable bracket, for these inserts you can use the Qidi metal scraper to ensure they are flat against the surface. In total 9 brass inserts will be mounted in the carriage and 2-4 in the hotend mount (depending on hotend mount). Cut the heater cartridge cable to about 16 cm. Leave a few mm unshielded and screw it to the heat block. Time to fix the blower and hotend fans. Cut and crimp as described below. If you don't know how to crimp with a two step JST crimper we use in the BOM, there's a quick quide just below the pictures, it's easy so don't worry. Crimping guide (video) Next, cut the thermocouple cable to about 15 cm. Crimp on a JST-XH connector on the thermocouple. I used heat shrink tube on both thermocouple and heater cartridge but it's optional, it can be easier to get the pin header to grip by doing so. The thermocouple can be a bit difficult to work with so take it slow. Notice! If you get a temp drop when you start heating the printer for the first time you have probably reversed the thermocouple cables. If so just unpin the connector and switch over. Cut the Sherpa Mini motor cable to around 15 cm and crimp on a 4-pin JST-XH connector. The correct cable orientation for the LDO motor is as pictured: Blue, yellow, red, green. If you're using a motor by Moons, this is the correct wire order: Blue, red, black, orange. Graphics: Gerald Abao Yuvallos Mount the two small hotend screws to the the hotend mount and tighten it with the hotend sitting behind it. Look at the picture for the correct orientation. In my experience 2 screws are enough but the design allows for four screws to be used. Then cut a 17 mm long PTFE tube using the printed jig, the PTFE should have an inner diameter of 2 mm and outer diameter of 4 mm which is the standard for 1.75 mm filament. Insert it into the hotend mount. Next, mount the extruder over the hotend mount so that the PTFE tube sticks up into the extruder. Secure it with 2 x 12 mm M3 bolts. Caution! Tighten it but do not overtighten it as we don't want the brass inserts to come loose from the carriage. The same applies everywhere in this guide. Insert the 4010 fan between the carriage and the hotend mount. The sticker on the fan should be facing the hotend. Then line up the screw holes before fastening it with two 25 mm M3 bolts, I find it easier to do if you use a thin pin or a thinner allen key for example to line it up before tightening. I designed the carriage and hotend mount this way for stability as the bolts secure the hotend mount as well, preventing hotend roll. Fasten the cables from the heater cartridge to the PCB (from your spare extruder) then carefully press down the PCB into the slot, no screws are needed. Insert the blower fan and secure it with a 20 mm bolt. Do the same for the dial indicator holder if you wish to use it. The carriage is now assembled and can be installed in your printer. Next, remove the original QIDI extruder and carriage. It is not fully pictured but to do so remove the screw from the top cover, remove the cover, unplug the ribbon cable, unscrew the extruder from below with the two screws (and possibly fan duct if you have one), lift out the extruder, remove two screws holding the belt plate, lift over belt then pull off the whole carriage carefully but firmly, it can sit very tight on. Picture: Olaf Krause At this point it's time to install the Icarus carriage into your printer. Line up the bearings below the carriage until you feel the location is correct then press down, use both hands if needed, it is a good idea to hold the rods as well so they don't bend down. It will sit firmly and will snap over the bearings. Once installed there should be no play in the carriage against the bearings. Install the fan duct from below using 4 x 8 mm M3 bolts. Move over the belt over the belt holder. Insert the printed belt peg, it acts both to secure the belt but also as a limit switch plate. Place the ribbon cable over the ribbon cable bracket and then insert it into the PCB, not the other way around. Do this with the printer shut off. The main objective of the bracket is to keep the weight from the ribbon cable from stressing the connector. It will also help preventing the ribbon cable from dipping down too much. Fasten the ribbon cable with an 8 mm M3 bolt. Now you're done with the physical installation. Time to print some files for firmware adjustments! Download the gcode files from here, extract the files and place them on your USB stick: icarus-sherpa-mini-r1-xplus-imate-gcodes.zip If you want to you can save the current configuration to the USB stick before you start. It's optional (you can always revert to stock firmware by printing files received by Qidi support). Print this file: output-configuration.gcode Next, there are two files to print. First the firmware, then the PID tune. So go ahead and print the firmware appropriate for your printer. icarus-sherpa-mini-r1-xplus-imate-firmware.gcode Just place it on your USB stick and print like you would print a normal model. It will make adjustments to the motor directions, X and Y distances, E-step adjustments and finally save it all. It will save immediately, no need for a reboot. Next, we do a PID tune because if we don't, the temperature will jump up and down more than we want because we've changed the heating and cooling properties with new heater and fan so it's no longer stable. After we've done the PID tune it will likely stay within 1 degree of target temp once stable, it's normal for it to overshoot the temp a little when heating from cold though, especially with a stronger heater cartridge like 60W. I've made an auto PID tune gcode that you just need to print, you no longer need to connect Octoprint and send the commands to the printer and watch the output and apply yourself. Print the file, it will heat up to 230 degrees in eight cycles then use the output result and apply to the printer immediately, no need for a reboot. pid-autotune.gcode It will take a few minutes to run so be patient until it finishes. My firmware adjustments does not change the max print temp which is set to 300 C but it is commented in the firmware if you want to increase it (at your own risk). Now it's time to check the functionality. First, do a manual X, Y and Z adjustment and see how the carriage moves. If everything looks normal heat up the extruder to printing temps and feed in the filament using the load menu. If everything goes well it will now extrude from the nozzle. Level the bed and you're done. Important! Screw down the bed leveling screws quite a bit first because the carriage sits a bit lower than stock so you must lower the bed a few mm. If you don't, the nozzle may crash against the bed! Also, remove the bed sticker on the first attempt so you don't accidently run into it. If you have a dial indicator now is a good time to perfectly level the bed. Screw in the bed leveling screws quite a bit so the springs/silicone are firm, insert the dial indicator and start the bed leveling script. The script checks the bed level on three different spots on the bed in a triangular pattern. Adjust the bed leveling screw closest to where it measures and by the time the script has looped three times the bed will be perfectly level. Copy to your USB and just print it like you would a normal model: qidi-xmax-icarus-dial-bed-leveling-script.gcode All done. Enjoy! Just a few tips on settings. The Dragon hotend does not need as much retraction as stock Qidi. I find around 0.8-1.0 mm is good with a retraction speed of 25 mm/s, depending on filament. If you get blobs on layer changes, disable "travel prime" in your slicer. Also, print a few flow calibration cubes and temp towers for your filaments to dial in your printer, I have everything you need, check my other designs. If you have a dial indicator you can now insert it to the holder and run the bed leveling script. Icarus full weight including Orbiter extruder and motor, Dragon hotend, blower fan, PCB, bolts, 3010 fan, fan duct with bolts, dial holder with bolt and belt peg is 343g on my scale. It is 173g lighter than Hercules with pancake stepper and more than 250g lighter than stock. Back to stock firmware? If you ever wish to go back to stock firmware, if you're selling the printer and want to keep the fancy extruder and hotend for example, you can reinstall the stock printhead and print this gcode and it will be back to stock (right-click “save-as”): qidi-back-to-stock-firmware.gcode