Ikea Antifoni Lamp (99-07ish) switch housing 120V conversion & hinge replacement

thingiverse

12V AC adapter burned out. Original piece cracked from high heat. Here's my highly customized replacement and upgrade to 120V. Update 2017-01-16: Hinge cracked off frame so I made a replacement hinge. Update 2017-06-17: In order to reduce electrical consumption I designed a new housing which supports a long LED bulb (photo 9) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/172586562616). This way the bulb doesn't extend past the lip (photo 10). STL can be mirrored to make a full set. Print Settings Supports: Yes Resolution: .2 to .1 Infill: max Notes: Max infill. At least 3 outlines. supports underneath which need to be removed.. and might be difficult to do so because it ends up getting trapped underneath during the print cycle. My silver ABS from makergeek(s) was crappy (printed at 216c to prevent sludginess) so I had to use raft to prevent curl. I used .2 resolution until it reached the break for the air flow fins, where I had it changed to .1 all the way to the end. 2 hours print with S3D. Update 2017-06-17: Because newer design is for LED bulb, printing in PLA is fine. I used dual extrusion (PLA and PVA) for dissolvable support. For the wire conduits clips I used white PLA (so easy to work with if heat resistance and/or strength isn't a must). I lost one of the nut holders so I printed a replacement for a silver nut I had on hand (I believe it matches original nuts) with the silver abs to test the filament. Post-Printing This is a highly customized thing which needs post-printing cleaning and fine-tuning. In other words, the cable conduits inside the switch housing needs widening out to make room for fat wires. The wires from the ceramic bulb holder need to be routed in an intelligent way to make for the tinier size (its smaller than the original-4th photo), by having the negative wire meet around the switch cylinder and exiting out the back through a curve. I used a dremel, air mask and periodically vacuuming in order to make everything fit. I used two pairs of wires. One white pair to go with the style and lightness of the original design and a black one (with plug) leftover from an Ikea TERTIAL work lamp I gutted (great deal for an articulating arm). The meetup takes place in the bottom of the lamp directly above the connection to the base weight (7th photo). But it works great. I'm using a 120V 50 W bulb which lights up my work place beautifully and nice heat addition during the winters. I put the switch location on the underside because it allows me to simultaneously turn on and direct the light. Switch wiring has center pin/loop to hot end. Update 2017-06-17: If you want LED glow while off, wire outer switch pin to hot, leaving center pin to bulb. How I Designed This I took all the necessary components dimensions and inserted it into my CAD program in a way which made sense. I upgraded the screws length in order to help extract heat from the bulb, exposing it to the air beyond the end of the lamp shade. Original Antifoni lamp design and use of 12V explains why are no wires between the base and the head because the electricity is conducted through the frame itself; sprayed with insulating paint to prevent short (it still does if it gets scratched off). This is how the constantly-hot-brick of an AC adapter burned out. I replaced it with another adapter which didn't like being connected to power 24/7, so I decided to forego the adapter, and run 120V direct via an electric wire neatly clipped to the frame. I designed the contact of the ceramic bulb holder to the plastic housing to be as airflow supportive as possible. Drawing cool air from inside of the housing to be brought outwards via the cooling ducts (as like the original) and screws (acting as heatsinks). 4th photo is the the prototype I made which I used acetone vapor treatment for shine (which I later opted not to do for the reprint), only included to show size difference.