IKEA LACK ENCLOSURE V1

thingiverse

Check out Version 2 here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776584 This includes a 3,4,5 & 6mm version of the setup with a slightliy increased internal floor space and a variety of heights to fit your printer. Version 1 - Below: If you print it out please remember to share your make. It's always good to how other people have used the models :) Thanks! Looking for something specific? Use the contents section on the left to navigate around. If you spot any errors in this post please let me know and I'll update. This is a remix of the model made here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2012384 I loved this model due to the simplicity of the removable top. Since I wanted side panels I modified the design slightly to accommodate this while still allowing you to remove the top in one piece. So once you remove the filament you can just lift off the top table with the plexiglass attached. Features Designed for 4mm plexiglass Allows for printer height of 460mm, 490mm or 500mm Removable top as one piece including the plexiglass. Tabs to support plexiglass on each side. These are a push fit to clamp the glass to the top table. I wanted to keep the design simple and maximize access so opted to leave out door hinges. Instead I have gone for a removable front panel that just slides into the tabs at the base and assuming you cut the plexiglass the right size is a snug fit when closing (no door catch required - I'll see if this lasts over time) Print Settings Printer Brand: Prusa Printer: Prusa Mk2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.20 Infill: 20% Notes: I used ABS for this as i wanted to make sure the tabs that grip the class were flexible enough to bend when assembling. You will be OK with PLA but I would do a test print first and see if it fits over the plexiglass. Parts List Tools 3d Printer (You might think this funny but I suppose you could be building this enclosure for something else or don't quite have your printer yet) - If you are really impatient then I can print the parts for you so you are ready to go when your printer arrives. Just ping me and I'll sort something out (15 parts in total). For my printed parts: 32 screws 4mm drill bit Scriber for the plexiglass - £7: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0037Y991C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the other printed parts: 2 screws for the handle Xmm drill bit for the handle screws 5mm drill bit for the filament guide A Dremel (not strictly necessary) to help cut out the hole for the guide 50mm hole cutter https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-Holesaw-Blades-Pilot-Drill/dp/B0001P1968/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1491485282&sr=1-4&keywords=hole+cutter Printed Parts Form Here (13 parts in total) All files are listed above Top Leg x4 Upper Leg x4 - For Plexiglass @ 460mm (As per the rest of the instructions) Upper Leg Long 490mm - For Plexiglass @ 490mm tall Upper Leg Long 500mm - For Plexiglass @ 500mm tall LowerLeg x4 Upper Leg Template x1 Other Printed Parts I have used other parts to complete my final design. See links below. (Thanks to the other designers!): Ikea Lack Grommet - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225786 Handle for the front panel - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36465 TUSH Spool holder - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554 Vibration Damper - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045 Ikea Lack filament guide(s) (3 to choose from - I started with the 60mm one but want to print the 120mm as it will put less strain on the filament when printing at maximum volume. The only minus will be it will let out a bit more heat. 60mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2114888 90mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2228361 120mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2228363 Other Non Printed Parts 90 degree kettle lead extension. https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-Right-Angle-Power-Extension-x/dp/B019M5AVSO 608 bearings (for the THUSH Spool holder) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M0F3HK8/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w Assembly Instructions Top Of The Legs - Print out all for parts listed as "Top_Leg_xxxx_xxxx". As per the instructions with the table, screw in the legs into the table. I would do this first without the printed part. Unscrew the leg again and insert the screw into the centre of the part. Screw back on again until you get a tight fit. you will have to guess at the final orientation as you screw it down so you make sure its tight. Do this for all 4 legs. Upper Legs - Print out all for parts listed as "Upper_Leg_xxxx_xxxx". Hold the part over the leg and mark out the 4 holes for the screws. Pre drill the holes and then screw in the 4 screws to get things started. When you take the screws out make sure the bottom of the leg is flat as you will want the printed part to sit flush with the table leg. Get a marker and colour in the edges so you don't see them :) Attach all 4 of these to the table and they should look like this. Cutting The Plexiglass Using 4mm thick plexiglass I cut all 4 panels to a width of 444mm and height of 460mm. You can search google for lots of ways to cut plexiglass with everything from a table saw, jigsaw and a scriber. I do have all those tools but I went for the scriber option as it just felt like the least hassle. I was a bit worried about it working on a 4mm thick piece of plastic but everything worked just great. Just make sure you cut deep enough and get right to the ends to make sure you don't crack the corners off. Sorry i forgot to take some pictures of me doing this. I'll add in the next time I cut some plexiglass for reference. Plexiglass - Drilling the fixture holes. It's time to use the "Leg_Upper_Template" printed part. Just position the plexiglass in the correct position (probably best to assemble the table to do this and just reverse each of the upper leg pieces so you can get the height correct). Then drill through in the appropriate place. The template piece can be discarded once the table is completed Side note: You will notice the template is hollow in the middle. I thought I would do this to save on material but as it turns out, by the time you take into account the perimeters the amount of material is about the same as the 20% infill ones! Once in position using your 4mm drill bit, drill through the hole. Take your time here to make sure its in the correct place as this is what will be used to secure the plexiglass in place. Plexiglass - Fitting to the table (3 fixed sides) The parts are designed to grip the plexiglass once positioned in the tabs. Follow the steps below and you should have quite a sturdy structure. Slide the plexiglass into position like the picture above. you should be able to bend the leg out to align the glass in the correct place as shown above. It should be a tight fit and stop at the dimples designed to go in the hole. Push/hit the leg and it should snap into place. Provided you drilled the hole in the correct place this should lock the plexiglass in place. You should now have something that looks like this (minus the filament guide at the top). At this point the lower legs will be loose. Lower Legs - Print out all for parts listed as "Lower_Leg_xxxx_xxxx". Don't start this without fitting the 3 plexiglass sides as it will help align the lower legs. Assemble the table now with the lower legs sitting loose on top of the table (as per the last picture). Mark the position of all 4 lower legs on the corners of the bottom table so you know where to position them for the next step. Hold the printed part over the leg and mark out the 4 holes for the screws. Now pre drill the holes. Screw all 4 of the lower legs onto the table. You should now be back to this with everything screwed down. Adding the door and handle See the parts list for the handle. I used 2 screws from the spare parts bag in my printer. I pre drilled the holes very slightly smaller (0.5mm) than the screws and then just screwed them directly into the plastic. This does have the risk of cracking the plexiglass so be really careful. Its working OK so far for me as its not carrying much weight. Mark the position of the handle Pre drill the hole and screw in the screw. Once attached, Keep It Closed! :) Adding the grommet for the power lead Make sure for this step you mark your position and drill straight through the table so you have a centre point on both sides. Drill a hole 50mm wide in the bottom of the table. Do the same from the top. The grommet should fit tightly into the hole Fit the cover and your done! Assemble it! Now just put it all together! :) You will notice I don't have anything that holds the door shut. This is on my first plexiglass cut was very slightly off so its a tight fit. this allows me not to have a locking mechanism. If things loosen off then I'll make one but for the moment i'm just going to leave it. See "Items Still To Complete" for things I know I want to do next. Happy printing!! Filament Guide To be completed. I'll add this when I put in my 120mm guide. See the parts list for details. All done for now :) Thermal Performance I use a simple wireless thermostat connected to my home automation system to monitor the temperature. As you can see in the graph below, the enclosure heats up by 20 degrees (print still ongoing). I did open the door briefly during this print but so far so good. I'll take another view closer to the end of the print to see if the temperature levels out. My general aim for the enclosure was to reduce temperature fluctuations (people opening doors/windows) rather than reach a specific temperature so we will see how that goes. Items Still To Complete Screen Mount - Need to think about where to mount the screen to get easy access to the SD card slot. Out or in the enclosure! Hmm. Lights - I still want the top to be removable without having to disconnect wires all overt the place so will need to investigate something attached to the printer. Web Cam - Lots of camera mounts are available. I just need to choose one :) Placeholder Mark Jurisch's & TIMFOU Special tanks to Mark Jurisch's & TIMFOU for making the model for the Prusa Mk2 available TIMFOU - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194552 Mark Jurisch: https://grabcad.com/library/original-prusa-i3-mk2-printer-1 sspierings Also to sspierings http://www.thingiverse.com/sspierings/about for creating a wider filament guide on request. Awesome!!