Iris Keyboard Case (v2)

thingiverse

Case for each side of an Iris Keyboard kit (built/tested with v2.6 PCBs) Features a thick integrated switch plate and a base that provides a 6 deg incline. PARTS: * [Iris PCB kit](https://keeb.io/collections/keyboard-pcbs/products/iris-keyboard-split-ergonomic-keyboard?variant=8034004860958). Includes PCB and various components * [2x Pro Micros](https://keeb.io/products/pro-micro-5v-16mhz-arduino-compatible-atmega32u4) * [TRRS Cable](https://keeb.io/products/trrs-cable?variant=8139444519018) PRINTING: Print the bases upside down and turn on supports (supported bridges as well if needed) so that the cutouts for your ProMicro and TRRS jacks don't sag. Print the top portion right-side-up with supports. If you don't like using supports or your printer doesn't do well with them, you can split the top portion horizontally into two pieces 8.5mm from the top face. If you go this route, print the lower half upside-down and the upper half right-side-up and then chemically weld the two halves together The STLs should already be oriented to accomplish the above. ASSEMBLY: [PCB Build Guide](https://docs.keeb.io/iris-build-guide/) You will want to keep the solder cone height on the through hole diodes and promicro pretty minimal. Also clip the excess leads as short as possible. This is due to the thick switch plate that will interfere with the solder joints and the PCB won't fit correctly if you have giant ugly solder blobs for joints :D Recommended to utilize brass heat-set inserts to connect the base with the top portion of the case. McMaster item # 94180A312 and M2 screws. Use soldering irion to Insert them into the holes on the bottom side of the top portion of the case, slightly inset. Be careful with your soldering iron while installing the heat-set inserts and while soldering your PCB. Accidentally brushing it against the case will melt the surface! And don't over-tighten the screws.