JAP LCD Printer (Improved)

thingiverse

WORK IN PROGRESS Update 2019-05-05: Added 'Variants' section, filled 'BOM' section Summary ==================== LCD printers become more and more popular as provide incredible printing quality and getting more and more affordable. LCD printer is a type of photo polymer printer - it cures resin with UV light layer by layer. UV light is masked with regular LCD matrix - black pixels displayed on LCD prevent resin above the pixels to cure. One day I found [JAP LCD 5.5 printer](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-first-acquaintance-with-jap-lcd-55/) on internet. It looks pretty simple to build and set up. Studying its drawings and BOM I realized I already had number of parts, but they were slightly different from ones suggested by author. Additionally I was not happy with some of the technical decisions. So I decided to make an improved clone. Basically this printer is a DIY analog of mass produced printers such as Wanhao Duplicator D7 or KLD-LCD1260, providing basically the same capabilities: - LCD resolution - 2560x1440 - X-Y dot size - 47um - print area - 120x68mm - Z resolution - 10um Differences with original JAP printer ==================== You can find original articles (Russian only, try using google translate) here: - [Introduction](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-first-acquaintance-with-jap-lcd-55/) - [BOM](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/you-need-to-build-lcdprinter/) - [Part 1](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-assembly-of-photopolymer-printer-lcd-jap-55-part-i/) - [Part 2](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-assembly-of-photopolymer-printer-lcd-jap-55-part-ii/) - [Part 3](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-assembly-of-photopolymer-printer-lcd-jap-55-part-iii/) - [Part 4](http://3dtoday.ru/blogs/3dlab/the-assembly-of-photopolymer-printer-lcd-jap-55-part-iv/) Overall I tried to preserve original dimensions, as well as printed parts. Here is a brief list of my improvements: - Box and mechanics - The only way to get the electronics compartment in the original design was a big hole at the bottom. I added a door instead - Added a bottom plane with plenty of mounting holes - Used MGN9 rails instead of 12mm shafts. Though shafts support is preserved, you can use either of them - Electronics - Using Raspberry Pi instead of connecting printer to a computer via HDMI - Used CNC Shield v4 + Arduino Nano instead of CNC Shield v3 and Arduino Uno - Alternatively it is possible to use a Raspberry Pi shield specifically designed for LCD 3D printers. - Added 16x2 LCD screen - Using powerful MOSFET to drive LED instead of relay (which caused significant electical interferences) - Software - Targeting to [nanodlp](https://www.nanodlp.com/) software - Use own [arduino](https://github.com/grafalex82/JAPFirmware) and [nanodlp shield](https://github.com/grafalex82/nanodlpshield) software Variants ==================== I am still experimenting with various setups for a better print quality and printer stability. Thus, initially I was using MGN9 rails for Z-axis because I had ones. Once I noticed that back side of the wooden carriage (the plate where MGN carriages are screwed to) is not super rigid. This caused some bending of the Z-carriage when moving up during printing. Although this did not impact printing quality I decided to try using 12mm shafts and flange linear bearings instead. I have not tested this new set up yet, so please stay tuned for an update. Also I was using an arduino + cnc shield to drive the motor. This setup was somewhat buggy, arduino-raspberry communication failed randomly, it has a lot of wires and poor connections between components, and a few other issues. So I decided to develop my own nanodlp shield for RaspberryPi. See [details here](https://www.nanodlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=1841). Perhaps Arduino-based setup could be tuned for a better stability, and wiring issues are also could be fixed with a cable management. But I just wanted to practice in developing RaspberryPI shields :) In any case I am describing both setups in this thing Bill Of Materials ==================== Below is the list of materials and components that are currently used on my set up, Materials: - Laset cut 6mm plywood (see DWG files in Files section) - PLA for printed parts - Some acrylic or glass-fiber laminate - aluninium self adhesive tape (it is just thin and non-transparent) - various thin and thick wires, e.g. [awg26](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Set-10-Meters-UL-1007-Wire-26AWG-1-3mm-PVC-Wire-Electronic-Cable-UL-Certification/32823559868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4deiDDTA) for signal wires, 2x1.5mm2 or 3x1.5mm2 (or even 2.5mm2) wires for power lines and LED. Harware stuff: - 2 pcs 300mm MGN9 rails + 2 pcs MGN9H carriages - OR 2pcs 350mm 12mm shaft + 2 pcs LMK12LUU flange linear bearings - 8mm diameter 300mm length 4mm pitch lead screw - 2 nuts for the lead screw (I used POM nuts) - 2 pcs 608zz bearings - 60 pcs square M3 nuts for box assembly - 60 pcs M3x15 screws - 30+ pcs M3 locknuts + 30+ pcs M3 washers - 30 more pcs M3 locknuts + 30 more pcs M3 washers if using MGN9 rails - 30+ pcs M3x12 screws for mounting electronics (depends on how may stuff you want to mount) - 20+ pcs M3x20, and 20+ pcs M3x25 screws (not really sure how many of them I used) - 8 pcs M4x15 screws, 6 pcs M4x20 screws - 2 pcs M4x70 - 2 pcs M4 wing nuts - 10 pcs M4 locknuts - 1 pcs M5x30, 2 pcs M5x50 - A few M5 nuts and locknuts - 2 pcs M5 wing nuts - 1pcs M6x70, and 1 pcs M6x80 screws - a few M6 nuts and locknuts Electronics: - Raspberry PI 3B+ or newer (Actually performance does not matter during printing, but important when you slice models using onboard slicer) - [LS055R1SX04 5.5 inch 2560*1440 2K LCD Screen](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-5-inch-2560-1440-2K-LCD-Screen-LS055R1SX04-HDMI-to-MIPI-driver-controller-board-for/32909798531.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dD7aEGK) - HDMI controller for LCD screen (usually available in the same lot) - Protector glass for LCD screen - HDMI cable (There are [different angled connectors available](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30cm-Mini-HDMI-Male-to-Female-Converter-Up-Down-Right-Left-Angled-Adapter-Cable-dropshipping/32955846889.html) ) - [100W UV 405mn LED](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UV-Purple-LED-Ultraviolet-Bulbs-Lamp-Chips-365nm-375nm-380nm-385nm-395nm-400nm-405nm-3W-5W/32837957302.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4drb8SYI) and [a heatsink with a lens](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50w-100w-high-power-led-heatsink-DC-12V-1-2A-led-cooling-fan-44mm-lens-kit/32720635079.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4drb8SYI) - [150W Step-Up converter](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-30V-to-12-35V-Step-Up-CV-CC-150W-10A-DC-Buck-Boost-Converter-Car/32800195388.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4drb8SYI) (pay attention it must have 'CC' or 'constant current' in its description, otherwise it is not suitable for driving LEDs) - [12V 20A power supply](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-AC85-265V-110V-220V-to-DC5V-12V-24V-36V-48V-1A-2A-3A-5A/32780272089.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4drb8SYI) - Populu Stepper Motor Driver (I used 'silent' TMC2100) - [200mm Fan](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Colorful-LED-fan-Red-Blue-Yellow-Green-200mm-20cm-fan-quiet-for-power-supply-for-computer/1337681336.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dAeMlef) and [200mm fan grill](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Pieces-20cm-200mm-Fan-PC-Case-Net-Chrome-Plated-Protector-Finger-Guard-Grill/32815545644.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dyRB1W0) - 2 pcs 80mm fans - [2x16 symbols LCD with I2C adapter](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shiipping-1lot-2pcs-1pcs-1602-16x2-HD44780-Character-LCD-blue-1pcs-IIC-I2C-1602-Serial/32685612494.html) - [I2C level converter](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IIC-I2C-Logic-Level-Converter-Bi-Directional-Module-5V-to-3-3V-For-Arduino/32589088559.html) for the display - 2 pcs 16mm push buttons (I used [nice looing buttons with color LEDs inside](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/16mm-Metal-brass-Push-Button-Switch-flat-round-illumination-ring-Latching-1NO-1NC-Car-press-button/32676526568.html)) - An [Up-Down button](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OOTDTY-New-Arrivals-Universal-Plastic-Direct-Current-12V-20A-Auto-Car-Power-Window-Switch-5-Pins/32843273153.html) - [Power socket](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10A-250VAC-3-Pin-iec320-C14-inlet-connector-plug-power-socket-with-red-lamp-rocker-switch/32958550277.html) For an Arduino based setup you will also need: - Arduino Nano - [CNC Shield V4](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-CNC-Shield-V4-Engraving-Machine-3D-Printer-A4988-Driver-Expansion-Board-for-Arduino-Diy-Kit/32833955665.html) - USB-MicroUSB cable - 10-15A MOSFET module (I soldered my own with IRL2203 transistor) Box assembly ==================== The box is made from laser cut 6mm plywood. In addition I sanded the surface with 400-800 grit paper and coated with couple layers of varnish. For parts assembly I used M3 screws and square nuts as well PVA glue. Box assembly is pretty straightforward: - mount top, middle and bottom plates to side walls - mount front and back plates - there are 2 parts supporting bearings glued below top and middle plates Carriage assembly: - Glue top and bottom horizontal plates - screw/glue vertical panels - screw/glue back panel - Screw linear bearings if you use shaft version It is a good time to assembly anti-wobbling parts to the carriage as it will be quite tricky to do this later: - Print top and bottom anti-wobbling parts - Screw them with M3 screws - Install T8 nut - POM nut at the top, and brass one at the bottom. - Use 4 M3 screws for each nut. Check T8 lead screw moves freely, but without backlash, tighten screws if needed TODOs ==================== The work is in progress. There are number of items to do. Here is a reminder for myself: - upload final STLs and DXFs when ready - upload detail parts and assemblies pictures - describe assembly steps - Describe software set up Let me know if you would like to join the project. Current work in progress sources are located at https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e9d65b07c23a08b13072c45e/w/5bea1c47c1cb98c3704fd181/e/c33ec5266769ab47ec768ee5