Kendama (authentic)

prusaprinters

<p>This is my take on a <strong>easy to print Kendama (no need for supports)</strong>. Every piece is held together with a <strong>twist-lock </strong>system. This makes is extremely sturdy and also easy to modify. You can <strong>change sides of the big and small cup</strong> to make it a left or right handed Kendama according to your needs. Or you can eliminate the small cup completely and just play two big cups on each side in the beginning.&nbsp;</p><p>The only thing <strong>you need to add</strong> beside the printed parts is <strong>a string </strong>(even tho you could play without a string as well).</p><p>The Ken A and B pieces look beautiful if you print them with an higher layer height of 0.30-0.32mm. The Layering effect makes it look a lot like typical wood structure. I recommend setting the <strong>layerheight to adaptive</strong> for every individual cup and the tama. I also <strong>prepared a .3mf</strong> with my print settings that worked just fine and has<strong> </strong>a <strong>wheight comparable to a wooden one</strong>. Both the Ken (handle) and Tama (ball) should weigh around 65g for an authentic playing experience (<strong>~130g int total</strong>). But if you want to <strong>save some money on filament</strong> it is also fun playing with a super light Kendama and you can go <strong>as low as 2,50€ for the full Kendama</strong> (comaparable <strong>wood Kendama costs around 30-50€</strong>)<strong>!</strong> I recommend an <strong>infill of at least 15%</strong> gyroid or 10% rectilinear.</p><p>Also should mention that this works scaled down up to 30% which can be quite enjoyable for more experienced players.&nbsp;</p><p>Hint: you might want to print 2-3 more spike-pieces in advance since this part is most likely gonna break at some point while you are practicing ;) Luckily its the smallest and cheapest and fastest to print part as well!</p>