Komatsu PC75 UU2 Door

thingiverse

<b>Updates:</b> <b>27/03/2021</b> Just updated the fusion file with a few minor adjustments that should make it easier to print without using any supports. I chamfered the upper window slot so it can be printed with the flat slotted side on the bed without using supports (45 degree angle.) I also altered the bolt holes to tear-drops so they should print without supports and maintain their shape. <b>Summary:</b> This is the Fusion360 file for the replacement door I designed to be printed on my Anycubic Predator. It fits my Komatsu PC75 excavator but since I didn't have any of the door hardware I simply removed the existing latches in the doorway and made mounts that allow me to fasten the door into the opening when it is not in use. It is meant to keep out the water and snow during the winter months while the machine is not in use. I remove the door when it is in operation. Rather than provide STLs I opted to provide the fusion360 file so changes can be made to fit your own machine/design. I did use a few variable parameters to try and make it easier for making adjustments. Sorry, but I used inches in the parameters because my tape measure didn't have a metric scale. I tried to keep the design simple to allow it to be altered more easily. This particular design is a cleaned up version of my original. I have not actually printed this design so verify all your measurements before printing a final copy. My original took about 3kg of filament. I used PETG. I used a 2mm plexi sheet that I had to trim off one edge to fit (approx 40mm). I decided on 2mm because I did not want to form the sheet and it needed to flex on its own and not cause too much stress on the edges of the frame. I used two threaded rods down each edge to hold the parts together. The front and back sections are held together with some stainless bolts. These, along with the slots for the plexi-glass widow, appear to keep the door relatively unified. The new design has addition holes on the outside edge (front and back) to help align the pieces at the outside edge. Either a single rod in each can be used or small sections of rods can be inserted (as alignment pegs) to help with the alignment. My original design did not have this for alignment so I printed some small clips that fit on the outside of the edge over the joints. You could probably glue the parts if you would rather but I preferred to keep mine separated in case I wanted to disassemble it. The new design also has a cross tie connector that can be used if desired. It helps hold the vertical tie rods from bowing out in the centre. My original design does not have this and although there is some bowing (as the plexi tries to flatten in the centre) it does not appear to cause much of a problem. This design does not include the mounting hardware which is a couple of front clips that mount in the door frame using existing screw holes and a slide bolt that fastens in the body behind the door where the original door used to slide. The parts are easy to design and depends on what door hardware exists etc. If anyone wants my designs I can upload the STLs for these as well. I used a 0.6 nozzle and adjusted walls and infill to to provide me with good strength with the least filament and quickest times. I found that increased wall count and thinner infill line width & percentage worked pretty well. Layer height: 0.4 Line width: 0.75 Infill line width: 0.5 Infill: 8% Wall count: 4 Top and bottom: 3 <b>Note: Do not use the uploaded STL. I have uploaded it so it can be viewed on Thingiverse in 3D. It is not for printing, unless you have a very big printer.</b> The Thingiverse 3D view of the STL does not work well with this model. I assume it is too large and you have to zoom way back to get the pivot point in a position to rotate it properly.