Leadscrew 3D Printer 4.5mm Acrylic Frame

prusaprinters

<p>This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8edHfJSzcEW">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8edHfJSzcEW</a></p> <p>Tinkercad file is a virtual assembly, a couple iterations behind the .stl and .svg files included.</p> <p>You will need 3X the "Leadscrew Small Y Mount" to hold 3 20mm piezo discs.</p> <p>Some cable management, particularly on the Y carriage is not detailed here. I'll be using a drag chain, but haven't got the mount points included.</p> <p>There are some holes missing in the bed for the front and rear mounts for the Y axis motor and bearing holder. They're there in the model, but didn't render in the .svg.</p> <h3>Post-Printing</h3> <p>Obviously there are parts that you need. Smooth rods for the X Y and Z axes, NEMA17 motors. The Z and Y motors can be almost any depth, the max recommended for the X axis is 48mm. Some sort of extruder/hotend selection. I'm using a direct drive, so I'm not using it,but I included a mount for an E3D V6 print head bowden mount for the print carriage. I'm not actually sure that this would go low enough to clear the lead screw drive, so it may need some assistance/modification that way. I changed my mine after designing it, and before printing it. (I'm still using the Bowden style extruder, but it's now directly coupled to the hotend.)</p> <p>The PSU mounts are configured for my PSU on the left hand side panel. The control board mounted on the right hand panel is for a Duet Wifi, with standoffs that have a 1/2" offset, so the measurements are going to be a little weird. I probably should have used straight stand-offs.</p> Category: 3D Printing