Legacy: King Song S22 Sliding Mechanism Dirt Protectors

thingiverse

<strong>2022-09-11: I now recommend printing my new solution instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5508151</strong> <strong>2022-08-31: Uploaded S22_Inner_Only.stl if you want only the inner protector that goes into the channel and not the outer one that sits around the rail, this part should be compatible with Tim's 3D printed sliders with bearings (https://www.printables.com/model/268351-s22-3po-the-3d-printed-option-kingsong-s22-suspens).</strong> There are multiple problems with the original design of the King Song S22 sliding mechanism for the suspension system: 1. This type of design has problems with friction as the interacting parts and forces involved causes a lot of resistance making the suspension very stiff 2. Problem gets worse over time as dirt accumulates in the channels 3. King Song has installed rubber parts on the rails that is supposed to help keeping dirt out but they add a lot of resistance by themselves (this part is not a stopper! It's purpose is only to prevent dirt) 4. King Song has put grease in the channels which will accumulate and retain dirt This print is a "simple" solution that will not solve the problem but will help making the sliding mechanism better and less dirt prone, this is an iteration of an original design/idea that circulated on Telegram (author unknown), I have taken the original design and re-created the models in Fusion 360 but with better tolerances (less stiction) and also added a new part that goes around the rails itself for even more dirt protection. For this print you also need some PTFE dry lubricant, personally I use WD-40 Specialist PTFE Dry Lubricant as it comes with a long nozzle making it easier to reach and apply. <strong>Preparation & Installation</strong> 1. Print 4 of each stl file, every channel/rail will need 1 of each part <strong>1a. If you want only the protector that goes into the channel (which is comptaible with Tim's bearing sliders (https://www.printables.com/model/268351-s22-3po-the-3d-printed-option-kingsong-s22-suspens) then print:</strong> 4x S22_Inner_Only.stl 4x S22_Top_Slider_Protector.stl <strong>1b. If you want both the protector that goes into the channel and the one that sits around the rail (compatible with original KS sliding rails) print:</strong> 4x S22_Inner_Slider_Protector.stl and 4x S22_Outer_Slider_Protector.stl 4x S22_Top_Slider_Protector.stl 2. Remove and clean the grease from all 4 channels until they are dry and free from grease 3. Unscrew the rails from the motor hangers, remove the original rubber part on each rail and clean the rails from grease 4. Spray PTFE in the channels as well as on the rubber sliders on the rails 5. Important: After finishing the print test each part on the sliding channels, <strong>they should not provide much resistance by themselves and should slide freely and easily</strong>. If there are any blobs, strings or other artifacts that interfere with the sliding of the parts in the channels then remove those with a sharp tool but try to avoid damaging or cutting more than necessary 6. Push the top part into the slider channels from the bottom up all the way to the top, the square cutout should be facing inward towards the open part of the channel where the rail comes in and the angled edge on one of the ends should be facing downward (see photo) 7. Screw on the other 2 parts per each of the 4 rails (see photo) 8. (Optional): Spray some PTFE on the 3D printed parts. 9. With the parts attached to the rails you can again test that the whole mechanism can slide more or less effortless in the channels (note: when pushing the rails into the channel the slider pucks will offer some resistance this is normal, once inside however they should slide freely) 10. If satisfied with the amount of friction install the 4 rails back on the motor hangers 11. Install the motor back into the battery case, this part is a bit tricky and can be done by one person but it is easier if you are two, start by aligning and pushing each of the protectors into each channel and then work your way to getting the upper sliding pucks in there as well, once the sliding pucks are in the channels you can stand the wheel up and use gravity for leverage to get the rest of the rails in 12. Before completing the whole assembly you can screw the suspension linkage back on and test the suspension by moving the wheel up and down with a slight force, you should see some compression/decompression of the spring by doing this if everything is as it should be 13. Complete the assembly of the wheel and hopefully now you should have smoother running suspension sliding mechanism that will accumulate much less dirt <strong>Dissassembly Tip:</strong> To get motor out, besides disconnecting the control box on top, you just need to loosen the upper suspension linkage screws (the one that also holds the lift handle) and after that you can easily slide the motor out. Video added for reference, no need to follow all these steps: https://youtu.be/R7qBH7kbI6s <strong>Re-Assembly Tips:</strong> Don't forget to put some blue loctite on the screws that hold the suspension slider rails as well as the suspension link screws! Don't forget to put silicone where the motorcable goes into the plastic cover on the control box! Video added for reference, no need to follow all these steps: https://youtu.be/cnsVxZ1zJFQ <strong>General Tip:</strong> The motorcable is covered by a metal spring for added protection, this metal is not rust proof and will rust over time, I have coated mine with several layers of plastidip to prevent this. I recommend switching out the 4 screws that hold the protectors in place to stainless ones that are a tiny bit longer and more robust than the ones included from factory, screw size: M3x10mm