Lulzbot Taz Pro, Taz Workhorse, and Taz 6 Front Intake Filter Mount and M6 Adjustable Feet Insulators - Keep Dust Out, and Noise In

thingiverse

Hi. Perhaps you want to modify your electronics box so you have adjustable M6 feet on it. Well, if you do that, you're going to have a situation where you have the risk of shorting some of the high voltage AC or high current DC lines because you've got a screw coming through the bottom of the chassis. Or perhaps your ear is right beside the air intake, and when the electronics box is closed up, it's kinda... noisy... but you notice if you put a filter in front of it, it becomes notably quieter. Or maybe you're sick of having a ton of dust get sucked into your electronics box, so you want to keep it cleaner. Whatever the motivation for doing so, here is a filter mount kit and M6 feet insulators. **DRILLING INTO YOUR CHASSIS CAN BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. DOING SO WOULD VOID YOUR WARRANTY INSTANTLY. IMPROPER HANDLING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH.** **NO WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED.** **USE OF EVERYTHING IN THIS KIT IS DONE SO AT YOUR OWN RISK AND BY DOWNLOADING THE FILES INCLUDED HERE OR READING THESE INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE INTENTION OF PERFORMING THESE ACTIONS IMPLIES YOUR ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF THESE FACTS.** To drill the holes, you'll need to unplug the machine, follow proper ESD precautions, and take all of the electronics out of the chassis. Then you can use the included jig to drill an appropriate sized hole for an M6 tapped screw hole, and then tap that hole. It's critical you tap the hole straight. You're going to need to make sure there are no loose metal chips, shards, or dust after drilling. Once you're done and sure, you can reassemble the chassis, install your M6 adjustable screws (20mm or less). Then, you can use 3M 300LSE Tape to attach the feet over top of the newly drilled holes to ensure there is no situation whereby the wires can touch those M6 adjustable feet screws. **USE FIRE RETARDANT ABS FOR THE INSULATION CAPS AND THE FILTER HOLDERS. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT HAVE VIABLE BURNING PLASTICS IN THE CHASSIS IN THE EVENT OF A CATASTROPHIC ELECTRONICS FAILURE.** Even with fire retardant plastics, these modifications may void safety certifications your machine / equipment may currently possess, and you agree to have the device re-analyzed and re-certified by your electrical authority before plugging in the unit to your electrical grid after any changes you have made. If you chose to use the filter mount, you similarly agree that you understand that this may reduce air-flow through the chassis and could lead to premature electronic component failure, particularly in instances where the filter gets plugged up with dust over time and restricts significant airflow. Again, any use of these parts is done at your own risk. I used a carbon filter - not because I am trying to capture smells, but because you can find nearly the exact required dimensions on your favorite discount retailer, and because they also allow more air through than HEPA filters, so you're less likely to restrict too much air intake. And the ones I am using, at least, seem to be non-flammable. A mock-up of the proper filter size required is included in this kit. Installing a filter in front should reduce the overall audibility of the noise from the chassis fan airflow, making your printer a bit quieter. Temper your expectations in this regard, as the change is minor. The filter mount and insulators can be mounted with 3M 300LSE tape. Want the same filter I used? Look for "Joseph Food Waste Caddy filters" This was a project for myself that I am simply sharing. I do not provide support for my designs, so please don't ask. Have fun. And again, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.