Makerfarm i3v Z Motor mount & Coupler Upgrade

thingiverse

**9/2/2018 Update** I have since updated to using the M8 leadscrew & remixed cperiod's design of the lead screw nut plates that allow you to use the same Z motor mounts without any changes. You can find his design here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917730 and I also made a remix of it. It has been work quite well. I made this for the Makerfarm i3v 10", but it is my understanding this part is the same for the 8" & 12" version also. This is for the i3v that uses M5 threaded rod. I worked on this design a year ago, but just got back to the design recently. I used the design files from the 12" version located here for the dimensions for this: https://github.com/DonKahones/MakerFarm-Prusa-i3v-12-Inch I mount each plastic z motor mount to the wooden frame with 2 - M3x20mm screws & a locknut instead of the original M3x16mm & nuts. I can make a version for the M8 rod if someone wants that. I pretty much worked that out already. The plastic coupling is 42mm high with 2mm of plastic between where the motor shaft ends & the M5 threaded rod begins. It connects to 19mm of the shaft. It would be 20mm, but I added a 1mm chamfer at the top & bottom of coupling opening. You should be able to slide the coupling all the way down the motor shaft & it will not hit the motor or the plastic mount. The procedure I followed to upgrade this was: 1. Print out 2 **Z-MotorMount_Rev31.stl** or if you prefer to use the supports your slicer creates print 2 of the **Z-MotorMount_NoSupports_Rev31.stl** You should be able to easily break the supports off with very little filing needed. I used a wire cutter to pull the supports at the base away from each other & then use a needle nose pliers as needed. 2. If you are going to use my plastic couplers, also print 2 of the **ShaftCoupler_M5x20mm_M5x20mm_rev16.stl** parts 3. Unscrew the set screws in the couplings from the Z motors 4. Raise the X-axis up with the threaded rods out of the way & clamp them to the frame some how. 5. Unscrew the screws holding the wooden z motor mounts to the frame. 6. unscrew the M3x10mm screws holding the motor to the wooden z motor mounts Before beginning to install this, make sure the plastic z motor mounts fit & file down with a file or rasp so they fit. I only spent about 2 minutes on each mount filing for fit. 7. Mount the motors to the new plastic z motor mounts with those same M3x10mm screws 8. Before mounting the plastic mounts to the wooden frame insert the M3 locknuts in each mount. (It is easier to do this now than later). I use the M3x20mm screws to initially pull it in place. I added a photo for this. 9. Mount each z motor mount to the frame & tighten the M3x20mm screws. If you are not using the plastic couplers I provided, attach your couplers similar to instructions below 10. Attach M3x16mm screws 7 locknuts to the plastic couplers 11. Orient the coupling with the text Up on the top of coupling & press each onto the motor shaft until it is all the way in. 12. Unclamp your x-axis as needed & insert the M5 threaded rod into the coupling until it is all the way in. 13. Tighten the 4 - M3x16mm screws until they are tight enough 14. Check all your connections to make sure nothing came loose during your upgrade. My hotend fan came loose when I was doing this. 15. Turn your machine back on & level your bed. That should do it. I printed my parts using esun PLA+ yellow filament. I used Slic3r Prusa edition 1.40.0 with 40% gyroid infill, .2mm layer height and 3 perimeters. The arch I added to the design to give it a little more strength. The only wooden parts left on my printer are the large frame parts.