Marvel X-MEN Master Mold Sentinel 22-24" tall

cults3d

12/7 - Added the finalized chest piece to the zip 11/6 - I uploaded new photos, the paint isn't done yet, I still have to weather and varnish but I will likely work on it this weekend. Please be gentle, I have never painted a model or used an airbrush in my life. Updated - 10/16 There's a folder labeled Updates-10-16-20 - I split the shoulders into 2 pieces to make them easier to paint, I also smoothed out the head and put 3 holes through the back section to the mid section and the chest, all 3 pieces of the torso for lights. The newer chest piece is also a better sculpt and fits the shoulder pieces far better. This model was designed for print on an Elegoo Mars, can definitely print on any similar or larger format printers. This was not an easy build or an easy print, at all, hopefully I either went through enough trouble that it will be far easier for you or you have far more experience with something like this (likely the case) but this is a ton of work. I likely printed enough parts to make 2 or 3 of these things... there was a lot of failure. You should be able to do this without a rotary tool, just using files for sanding, the two exceptions are the bottom piece where the legs attach. I printed it sideways, exactly how it loads into chitubox, cutting off the top corners of the keys for the legs. I found that it fitted so much easier and required a LOT less sanding. The other exception is the crotch piece. I included all of the original slices in case you want to do your own thing with how they fit (I wanted to be able to get everything in position and upright without glue or any modifications for which I was unfamiliar, so we added keys) but I will do my best to explain the process. If you find interesting ways to make improvements or have any advice, please feel free to hit me up, I would love to know. The most important thing to note, and this was my biggest mistake... you MUST HOLLOW OUT THE LEGS AND SHINS, no matter what. The shins might need 2 or 3 drain holes, just look at the depth and scroll through the x-ray to make sure that there are no areas where resin can get trapped. 1 at the bottom (I placed mine in the key hole) and 1 at the top (by the key for the knee) should be fine as long as they are deep enough. The legs, I placed 1 drain hole in the key. Seriously, I can't stress this enough, I had cleaned and cured everything, had it laid down but once I turned it upright, after a few days I noticed resin had leaked all over it, I had to reprint the entire bottom half as it all started cracking. All pieces will need to be filed well to fit, but take extra care with the shins, hands and legs as they have small tabs that can break, just the other day I broke the ankle off of a foot day simply because I was putting too much force on it. Obviously be mindful of the angle for which you are printing, your supports, digging them out of the feet sucks, you can probably get away with medium/heavy depending on what type of resin you are using and which pieces you are printing For the shins, remove the tabs (at the top, in the opening below the key) with pliers, cutters and/or file, trying to fit them into the knee is a massive waste of time. The crotch piece looks like it will fit very well up until you place the love handles, we probably could've done some more boolean differences there but it will need to be sanded a fair amount to fit with them. The love handles did not fit at all at first but I subtracted a few parts from them and now they slide right in, just be very careful when removing supports. The first torso pieces had some rough keys so I brought them back into meshmixer and cleaned them up quite a bit, they fit much better now. The chest piece has a subtraction for a light, if you do want to light it, you should hollow it out much more so the light disperses, I used a rotary sander as I did not want to reprint the piece, if you don't want to light it, you can reattach it in meshmixer or simply print the part and slip it in, it really doesn't need the key but it's there nonetheless. You may notice where the shoulders fit, there are some small inserts sticking out of the torso pieces, not unlike the shin, I just sanded those out and used the keys, personal preference. I find it very tough with resin printers to get things to fit that precisely. I included the eyes in case you want to add them to the head, you would want to scale them a bit and boolean union in meshmixer. If you want to light the eyes, don't worry about them, just hollow the head in chitubox and use a 6mm drain hole on each eye, I made additional, large holes on the bottom of it, and the back (I probably didn't need the back but guiding my lights through the bottom sucked and I didn't want to reprint) I drilled holes through the back, and middle of the torso so I could run a light to the chest, 1 to each shoulder and 1 to each leg. I left the shoulders alone as the light fits into the back but I drilled out the circles on the legs and drilled a hole below his glutes to feed the light through. I think I covered everything but again, the only parts that HAVE to be hollowed are the shins and legs, I might do the head as well just to be safe but that's up to you. I think everything else is pretty straight forward but please let me know if I missed anything, if you have any questions about the files, the positioning to print, or anything like that, please feel free to ask.