Mavic Mini / Mini 2 Case - Minimal - Like a Glove

thingiverse

NOTE: This works identically for the DJI Mini 2. I have both Mini drones and they both fit in this case perfectly. The Mini 2 is the exact same size as the original Mini. I wanted the smallest possible hard-shell protective case for just the Mavic Mini by itself. Now when I go hiking with my fanny pack, I can slip this in and it can't take up any less space. Plus it looks pretty darn cool. This case truly "fits like a glove". There is virtually no movement inside when you gently shake the closed case. I designed it so that the drone rests on it's "belly" surface inside the case. There is no contact with the gimbal protector, and no weight bearing on the rotors underneath. No padding is necessary since nothing moves. To "trap" the lower props, I put the drone on the table upside-down and arrange the bottom props and then lower the case down onto the drone before picking the whole thing up and turning it back over. Then arrange the props on the top and put the lid into place. The Lid "clicks" lightly on with the protruding, tabs. In this case, "protruding" means, "take care or you'll snap them off". With any degree of care, the tabs should last and last. Gently pry on the front tab as you gently lift the lid and the lid will come of nicely. To print the thing, download the two STL files into your slicer. Ignore the 3MF file. The next four paragraphs describe why the 3MF file is included. This is optional: When I printed the lid, I didn't want to have to use supports and leave any scars from support removal, so my solution was to "split" the lid halfway through the thickness of the main plate. This is easily accomplished with the "CUT" tool in Prusa Slicer. Just import the lid ("MavicMiniCase_Final_Lid.stl") and flip it over it so the outer surface is facing down towards the bed. (Just the elevated "dome" will be touching the bed.) Then "CUT" the lid at an elevation of 5.80, keep both parts, and check the "rotate lower part upwards" option. You can see in the photos how I printed the lid as two separate parts. After the print is done, I just use a gel-based "super glue" to glued the lid together. Be careful with the alignment since there are no alignment aids. It's not hard to make sure it's aligned correctly. I included the "pre-sliced" setup I used as a 3MF file in case you have any trouble. This is how I set the parts up in PrusaSlicer for slicing. NOTE that in this 3MF file there are also "support blocker" objects at the rear of the BODY and the LID. These look like big "blocks" of unwanted material attached to both the Lid and the Body, but they only appear in the 3MF file ("MavicMineCase_Final.3mf"). These "blocks" do not appear in the STL files. There is no need for supports on the little "latch" features. So I added these "support blocker" bodies while I was inside PrusaSlicer to prevent any unwanted supports from getting generated by the slicer around the latches. I don't know what other slicers will do with this "support blocker" information in this 3MF file. Which is why I provided the "clean" STL files for the BODY and the LID. You can totally ignore the 3MF file. I printed the whole thing at 0.10 layer height in order to get good detail on all the filleted surfaces and to give lots of "steps" on the gently-sloping surfaces underneath. The print took 16.5 hours. Totally worth it.