Meanwell NES-50 cover with Banana sockets, C14 socket, fuse, switch

thingiverse

This is to attach to a Meanwell NES-50 or similar power supply with the same dimensions.http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/NES-50/NES-50-spec.pdf There are two components - Rear feet, and the main housing/cover. The rear feet simply screw onto the underside with a pair of M3 short bolts. The top cover is also retained with two short M3 bolts, one into the bottom, and the other into the Right side (assuming you're looking at the terminals end-on). It has provision for 2 Banana sockets with an 8.5mm diameter mounting hole.http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Banana/Red-4mm-PANEL-MOUNT-Socket/p/PS0406 There is also a hole to insert a screwdriver to adjust the voltage if you need to without taking the cover off. It also has a square hole designed for the seemingly common combo of a C14 socket, fuse, and switch as available both on ebay and at your local electronics shop:http://www.jaycar.com.au/Power-Products-Electrical/Distribution-%26-Interconnect/Moulded-Leads/IEC-Fuse-Chassis-Male-Power-Plug-with-Switch/p/PP4003 Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 100% Notes: I recommend 100% infill, and also ensuring that your shell thickness is 1.5mm. The walls are 3mm thick. This means your printer won't spent 10 hours on stupid little zigzaggy infill like mine is still doing right now. Also worth noting there is a large horizontal bridge of 47mm for the hole for the switch. I found with my printer set for 60mm/s and 0.2mm layer thickness, I had no problem. YMMV. I suggest doing a bridge test and see how your printer will go with that distance before committing to the print. No support should be necessary. Once my print finishes, I'll upload a photo. Post-Printing Assembly should be as straight forward as wiring up your switch/socket/fuse, banana plugs etc and putting it together. Use long enough wires so you can screw onto the terminals on the PSU as the last step, but not so long as you'll have a hard time putting it together. I would also suggest leaving the switch/socket/fuse module un-clipped while you push the PSU into the cover so you can use that hole to make sure no wires get squished between the end-stop and the metal chassis. From the photos above, you can see I had some warping. This would have printed much better if I had a hood over the printer for the duration of the print This warping made it necessary to make some adjustments with a knife to make everything fit, and I used pieces o the brim and some acetone (drops via a screwdriver tip) to fill holes. The fit was quite tight too. I then used my ABS juice in a spray bottle to lightly spray the surface to give it a nice shine. It didn't take away all of the lines from printing, but gave it a much nicer appearance. Good enough for 10 minutes of finishing. WARNING: you're playing with mains voltage if you assemble this. I give no warranty, take no responsibility, etc! if you're not licensed to work with mains voltage, you may want to get some one to do this that knows what they are doing! How I Designed This This was drawn in onshape, and the drawing is public. If you search for me and/or 'NES-50 cover' in the public documents, you should find it. If you make modifications or improve on it, please share and let me know!