Microswiss filament guide insidert

cults3d

I was getting a lot of misfeeds with the new microswiss when using 90 shore or less TPU/TPE/TPV. I tried a number of things to find a solution and this is the one that has worked best yet. Regardless how much I tried to squeeze the capricorn tubiing right up to the gears, that soft stuff would still squirt out the side even if I cranked the print speed way way down and regardless where I put the temperature. I found a model of the full microswiss unit and used it combined with my own measurements to tweak this as close as possible to push the filament right up between the gears. The tolerances are so close, I usually have to sand the outside a bit before inserting and I intentionally make the inside just a hair too small as the layer lines will constrict the soft filament due to friction. To deal with the friction inside, I first take a series of guitar 'nut' files through it to smooth out the layer lines, then I take a piece of one of my 'harder filaments' (e.g. Polycarb works best) and run it back and forth through the extruder gear to put 'bumps' on it and use it as my final 'file' with some dry silicone lube. It sounds like a lot of work but I can usually smooth one out in less than 2 minutes with the files and filament-file. I recommend printing these in a strong, high-heat filament. Some of the carbon filaments I have tried were both brittle and abrasive, so I wouldn't recommend those. Printing vertical is about the only way to keep the shape consistent, and as a result you need to know your high-heat filaments well to know what creates the strongest layer lines. I originally made these with PETg then switched to a Polycarb/PETg blend. Next I'm going to try them in Nylon. Since you're 'inserting' this into the bottom of the microswiss, I don't recommend using any 'finishes' such as a lacquer or glue as it will get stuck. (and since any breaks will be on layer lines, good luck getting a lacquered piece out) What I tend to do is 'anneal' it to strengthen the layer lines. Use a temperature that won't cause distortion and leave it in a toaster oven for 30-45 minutes. (about 175F for PETg, 200F for PC/PETg, 250F for Nylon) The notches on the sides are just so you can line it up. The side with the 'cut out' goes under the swing arm.