MiltyKoss-Alpha One, small Delta printer with sliding carriages

thingiverse

Presenting the MiltyKoss Alpha One! This is a small delta printer frame using the same frame dimensions as a Mini Kossel, but with a larger build area. MiltyKoss uses an innovative new design for sliding carriages on OpenBeam 1515 extrusions. The first prototype MiltyKoss is in testing, it is printing very well, so the design is being released to the wild! A lot of work went into designing a low cost highly functional sliding carriage. 20 or so different prototypes with different materials, shapes for the bushings, and contact points on the extrusion in different locations, different angles, and different methods of tension. What you see is fully tested for a beta release. They work very well and have ZERO backlash and very low stiction and friction, if installed with proper tension on the setting screws. Included are files for new frame corners, sliding carriages, and effector for Mini Hotend. Plus some small parts. Bed mounts, controllers etc are all stock Mini Kossel or whatever the user desires. Almost any Mini Kossel kit for 1515 OpenBeam can be adapted to these new parts. Of course they are not perfect, although print quality seems to be close to it. They are very effective and ready for additional testers for the second stage of the design process, feedback from users and refinement of the design. Update after testing: MiltyKoss works far better than expected, no wear on the bushings so far after hundreds if not thousands of hours of printing. Just finished first design and manufacture job, MiltyKoss printed 72 parts in 4 days running almost continuously. Frame and carriages are completely reliable for accuracy over several months before any adjustment might be necessary after an initial break in period and one minor tension adjustment after 10-20 hours of printing. Big file update coming soon, updated frame corners and E3D hotend effector, side mounts for a rotating extruder short bowden tube setup that allows bowden tube to be less than 400mm. Extruder on separate side mounted vertical rods allows further development options. In CAD development now are a carriage and stepper motor setup for the extruder height control to follow the level of the effector with very short bowden tubes, and a multiple extruder multi color setup that will work with height controlled extruder carriages. Link to YouTube video of flame vase time lapse:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwguORYFmqA Print Settings Printer: Monoprice i3 V2.1 Rafts: No Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: lower than .2 I would think, but your call Infill: as much as you can stand to wait around for Notes: If your printer will not bridge well you may need supports. your printer should be well calibrated for interior hole size and external dimensions. Some parts need rotating, sorry will fix soon. How I Designed This Print Quality Examples Here are some of the first prints from the very first prototype of MiltyKoss. Almost no calibration of extrusion and filament temperature yet they are still very good prints, the accuracy of the MKoss-Rod Bushing Carriage is outstanding. The very first print! Very pleasently surprised with the accuracy, needed to adjust settings but not the printer mechanics. The carriages work! First Benchy and around the 7th print on the new printer. Everything is new hotend extruder firmware and slicer so this is a great result for just starting the tuning process! Video of the Benchy print and carriage movement I was sort of freaking out so I had to mute the video, way to happy and excited combined with an ex fisherman's use of slang... lol not safe for work! First big print, excellent accuracy, still working on the extrusion and temps. Very happy with the carriages linear motion accuracy! .2mm layer, 60mm/s base speed with %50 reduction for outer layer only. The basic S3d speed setting for the default profile. Using the whole 160mm, could be 170mm if I get a bigger print bed. Max is just clearing the belts with the effector arm ball joints. Will check CAD and get a definitive answer when I can. This is the accuracy out at the edge, around 77mm from center and perfectly aligned, no effector tilt or carriage wobble evident. UPDATE! RATHER HUGE ISSUE, SET BED RADIUS TO 2MM LESS THAN GLASS DIAMETER OR NOZZLE WILL RUN INTO SCREWS TRACING SKIRT AT VERY EDGE!!! I CRACKED MY GLASS BED USING THE WHOLE DIAMETER TO PRINT THE SCREW SPIDERWEBBED THE GLASS FROM THE NOZZLE HITTING IT! HUGE BUILD AREA THOUGH I JUST NEED A BIGGER GLASS BED :D Build Tips Mini Kossel build guides can be followed for the most part. Electronics are not part of this design, any controller and firmware suitable for a Mini Kossel should work. However I do include recommendations below. The MiltyKoss is specific to OpenBeam 1515 extrusions, found here:http://www.openbeamusa.com/ I used ZT automations on Amazon for the frame, very quick service and nice people. Respond to questions promptly and I got the impression they are knowledgeable from using the products they sell, which so helps with everything.https://www.amazon.com/ZT-Automations/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_13588454011?ie=UTF8&node=13588454011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=ZT+Automations Kit I used for prototype found here:https://www.amazon.com/OpenBeam-Kossel-Extrusions-Clear-Anodized/dp/B0196FHIT0 I cannot say if this set of parts will work with other 1515 extrusions that is totally untested. The OpenBeam extrusions have EXCELLENT surface quality judging from the set of 12 different extrusions I received. The carriages slide smoothly, as evidenced by the print quality (see print results images, those are some smooth extrusions doing that). The effector and hotend are important, everything must be very light. MiltyKoss carriages are probably not good candidates for direct or even flying extruders. Moving weight for the entire system must be very low. The printer is built just like a Mini Kossel except the screws stand out from the extrusions to make mounting them all MUCH easier. Firmware settings are slightly different with a different radius and build height. Current firmware settings for the Prototype Unit Alpha One are as follows: M665 L223.5 R102.88 H278.10 B85 X0.15 Y0.40 Z0.00 M666 X-0.56 Y0.65 Z-0.08 As you can see the homed height is 278mm, functional build height is larger than the Mini Kossel's 240mm and the Build diameter can be slightly larger as well with the arm ball joint clearance redesign. Calibration is the same as a Mini Kossel or any Delta Rostock. With a Duet controller it is simple and happens from a g32 command before each print to ensure each is perfect! MiltyKoss parts change the following steps: Changed how screws can be attached between frame corners and extrusions. Changed how the carriages are assembled and function. Changed how top belt pulley is aligned. Change how belt tension is applied, all top frame corners held at ends of extrusions by caps. Changed how endstops are installed to frame. Change the firmware settings for radius, buildable radius, and build height. Radius decreased slightly with overhanging rods (radius is the same as a Mini Kossel with the optional 65mm arm mount and adaptor risers). Build area and build height both INCREASED through clearance of arms from belts and travel of carriages being redesigned. Buildable area can be set to edge of build plate, keeping in mind the offset of any leveling sensors. Limiting factor is effector contact with GT2 belt, anything slightly less than that is OK. Recommended Parts for the best MiltyKoss I highly recommend going with a 32 bit printer controller such as the Duet, which is running the MiltyKoss and features the simplest pre print auto calibration one could ask for. Smoothieboard is another option that is highly praised by Delta users I chat with online, I intend to try that next. The money you save on the linear motion, spend it on the more modern and user friendly 32 bit controller! You won't be sorry! Duet can be found here:http://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-controller-v0-8-5http://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-wifi Manual calibration is certianly possible, but I recomend the Mini Differential IR Height Sensor by dc42 available from Filastruder here:http://www.filastruder.com/products/mini-differential-ir-height-sensor An FSR kit is a very viable option, though I personally like a print bed that is locked down by screws to prevent bed rotation from the nozzle hitting a blob while at the outside edge of a build area. This can easily rotate a circular print bed. For FSR I recommend a hexagon plate that can have rotation restrained but still move in a vertical axis for the FSR activation. The Mini Hotend from DeltaPrintr is being used on the MiltyKoss Alpha 1 prototype and I am very happy with it but have not tested any others yet. I recommend it with some stipulations. The thermistor should be placed on the other side of the nozzle than the leads for the heater core, there is a handy second thermistor hole for it. A M3 screw with a head and a high temp silicon and then a metal washer should be used to secure the thermistor wire. There is a threaded hole for that as well. It adds a little weight but the thermistor should be mechanically restrained like this per RepRap guidelines. Update on the Mini Hotend, changing to HIGHLY recommended. The round heater core encasing the melt zone is far more effective than a barrel type heater core, it applies the heat more specificly allowing the hotend to run cooler overall with the same amount of heat reaching the filament. A PLA fan mount that is within 1mm of the screw for the thermistor is amazingly surviving far longer than expected while the PID is fluctuating .2 degrees. It applies heat very well therefore the PID has less oscillation is how it seems from an less than scientific print results based impression. I can't say for sure, but it certainly seems like something good is going on with this hotend versus the MK10 on my i3. The MK10 is well serviced and functioning nicely but can't hold a candle to the Mini Hotends performance even on simple angular shapes it is good at producing. Mini Hotend and Mini Differential IR Height Sensor, lightweight high tech awesomeness! All the recommended parts are extremely lightweight, complementing the MiltyKoss design principle of reducing all the moving weight as much as possible. This is necessary for the printed bushing carriages, a heavy effector and direct drive will not work. With lightweight parts the MKoss-Rod Bushing Carriages are capable of extreme print accuracy. Zero layer shift from carriage wobble. Rod assembly and ball joint accuracy alignment will be covered in an update very soon. I will be releasing the effector and arm design as they are I realize now an integrated part of the design. Heavy parts will not allow users to make a true MiltyKoss which is incredibly accurate. Rod Bushing Material Here are some links to suitable material to make 1/2" bushings from: PTFE rod:https://www.amazon.com/Sur-Seal-PTFE-0-25x24-RD-PTFE-Teflon-Diameter/dp/B01BSLI5W4/ Delrin Acetel rod:http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381754122751?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true these are just examples, searching will likely produce better results. I am using Delrin Acetal rods as I had some on hand in the 1/4" size from a previous project and it worked out as a wonderful material for bushings. There are better options though. Some super slipper pre lubricated plastics form IGUS or some PTFE rod, which I plan on getting soon to try out. I even tried 1/4" OD nylon spacers with fairly thick walls that one can find at most hardware stores, they work but not as well as the Delrin I had. Tubes compress more than rods, which can impart a tiny bit of play with lateral twisting. The rods solid core resists this and provides a stable contact and firm resistance at 2 points per side top and bottom, 8 total for one carriage assembly. This establishes linear accuracy is that of the extrusion and corners not play in the carriage connection. The trick is having them tight enough to not twist and wobble but loose enough to slide easily. BOM as of 09/15/2016 MiltyKoss AlphaOne Bill of Materials September 6, 2016 Updated 06/14/2016 Frame and Linear Motion Extrusions: 1x set OpenBeam 1515 Mini Kossel frame extrusions Printed Parts List: Frame Corners: 3x MKoss-Frame Motor Corner parts 3x MKoss-Frame Top Corner parts 3x MKoss-Top Corner Cap parts 3x MKoss-Endstop mount parts, or design your own for your endstops, holes for mounting are provided and it is a simple upgrade to change the size and position (Mine are the green ones with the rollers, very nice little endstops!) MiltyKoss Rod Bushing Carriages: Printed Parts List: 3x MKoss-Arm Mount V5 or current version (alternately print StockMiniKosselArmMount65mm and 6x Adaptor spacer parts for use of carriages with stock MK) 6x Mkoss-Rod Bushing Carriage parts Rod Bushing Material: 12x 10mm or ¾” sections of Delrin or PTFE solid extruded rod. Available online or at plastic suppliers. Very inexpensive, 1 foot, enough for 12 bushings with room for cutting, is anywhere from $2 to $8 USD online. V Wheels start at around $10 for a set so the RBC is cheaper than the cheapest roller wheels, and performs hopefully much better, need to test this part. Fittings and Fasteners List: Rod Bushing Carriages: 6x M3x35mm screws 12x M3x12mm screws (must not be longer than 12mm, seriously!) 30x M3 5.5mm hex nuts, see detailed build instructions for variations such as brass inserts for some of these. Frame Fasteners: 36x M3x8mm Hex CAP screws are prefered, these eliminate the difficult placement of M3 nuts or M3 tapped T slot nuts in the T slots. The screws stick out and are easily arranged and the extrusions attached to the frame corner, using 36x M3 threaded nuts to secure them. It can be reversed as the original MK is, nuts in the T slot, but I found that tedious compared to just lining up the screws and sticking them through the holes in the frame corners, attaching the extrusion easily. 6x M3 25mm-30mm screws for the top caps and endstop mounts, 6x M3 nuts to secure them 3x M3 30mm-35mm screws for the tension and compression lock at the top of each GT2 belt 3x M3 35mm screws for the Belt Pulleys, 3x M3 5.5mm hex nuts press fit into Top Frame Corner part and secure pulley axle 35mm screws. Extra hardware is needed to space the pulleys. 1mm printed washers filed to a cone on one side and brass inserts work well to space the bearings flanges and not contact the spinning parts. Prototype Electronics and Hardware costs, yours could be lower if you shop around: Duet $130 Mini IR Sensor $25 Mini Hotend $50 Nice Endstops with contact rollers $10 Zyltech Stepper Motors $60 OpenBeam 1515 kit $34 Bowden tube kit off Amazon with fittings $8 GT2 belts and pulleys $20 Stepper gears $10 Drive gear for printed B’struder $5 Printed frame corners $5-10 including misprints, worst case conservative estimate Screws, nuts, bolts (cap head screws) enough for extras and other projects $20-30 POWER SUPPLY IS NOT INCLUDED, HEATED BED NOT INCLUDED! I am using an ATX supply and no bed heater, the printer is for PLA prototyping fast and does not have issues with lifting corners so far. My ATX is my workstation backup and benchtip power for all my projects, so its expensive high powered and modular gaming/workstation PSU. Normal printer power supply is fine for a build that is not a prototype but just for everyday printing and more compact arrangement. How to install the MKoss Round Bushing Carriage on 1515 OpenBeam extrusions. The basic concept is the carriage has compression built in, which is pushed against by spreading with nuts on a screw. Parts list for 3 sets of carriages for one Delta, does NOT include arm mounting hardware. This list is for carriage to extrusion mounting only: 6x M3x35mm screws / cap screws or whatever, as long as they are M3 and you have a tool to tighten them. 12x M3x12mm screws, 6mm or smaller caps. low caps are better tall hex head caps for allen tools may stand up in the GT2 belt path. Depth is critical, 11.5-11.95mm thread shaft are standard for most, they must be under 12.1mm thread shaft or they will touch the extrusion! You don't want that! 30x M3 nuts / 12 must be small standard hex nuts, 12 may be brass inserts in printed thumb hex nuts as shown (small white hex nuts inner face of carriage back), 6 may be tapped plastic thumb nuts as I have used on the outer adjustment tension lock nut. The can all be small standard M3 nuts, if so use washers (18 total needed) on all printed faces. 2 MKoss-RodBushingCarriage mounts are mounted to one MKoss-ArmMount-V5 using 4 M3x12 screws, M3 nuts press fit into the carriages to engage the screws. Bushings of the material you have chosen can be inserted whenever, but its easier to leave one side out until the carriage is on the extrusion. Place the assembled carriage with arm mount around the extrusion without the back screws. One M3x35mm screw is passed through each carriage bushing mount with 2 nuts on the inside and one on the far end. The screw is tightened to the first inner nut locking that side in place. The second inner nut is turned to spread the carriage slightly to adjust compression or to insert a bushing. Insert all the bushings. The carriage will grip the extrusion at 4 points along the T slot. Now adjust the second inner nut, the 'compression adjustment nut' to achieve the desired stability and friction. Once you have the carriages sliding easily but without any play or slop the outer thumb nut, 'Compression Lock Nut', is tightened down to lock inner Compression Adjustment Nut. After the outer nut is tightened modestly (do not over tighten) the inner compression adjustment nut will need to be turned slightly outward to relieve compression added by the outer nut. Save that last step until both top and bottom carriages are adjusted, then adjust both again slightly after tightening the outer nut to achieve even compression and smooth travel of the MKoss Delta carriages. The adjustment is complete when the carriage slides easily while assembled with the arm mount on the vertical extrusion of the Delta printer. Individual carriages installed may slide easily, but adjustment when linked by the arm mount is different and must be done with the arm mount attached to 2 carriages (top and bottom) while on the vertical extrusion. It may take several attempts at adjustment for each carriage set to get them right. This is a new design prototype, I cannot guarantee any performance other than they are working for me in testing. I feel confident they will work for others at least as well as other printed sliding carriages I have seen. Feedback is encouraged to improve the design. If they work for you but could be better let me know! All contributors will receive full credit for any input incorporated into future design releases. Frame Corner Parts Assembly Tips Put M3 x8mm cap head screws in the horizontal extrusions, align to holes in corners, attach pushing screws through holes in corners, no mysteries from out of view components, super easy compared to lining up nuts in the T slots! Tap thread the extrusion center hole with M3 tapering tap to pull the extrusions into the corners from both mounting surfaces. Mount motors using the tool paths through the Frame Motor Corner parts. Part 'MKoss-FrameMotorCorner-PR2' is prefered for accessing motors after frame build. Making Precise Length Delta Arms Using Traxxes Ball Joints Cutting the carbon tube for the delta arms I had length accuracy issues (see image below), I made these socket adaptors as spacers. These allow setting the length of each arm in a jig without the restriction of having M4 threads and set screws rotated to match equal lengths. Nearly impossible if you ask me, how does one get the ball joints socket heads lined up correctly with threads of screws dictating the length? Not going to happen on all 6 for sure. So we ditch the screws and use an epoxy bond inside a link connector, sleeve, boot, whatever you want to call it. Cutting inaccuracy, does not matter much to this method, just within a reasonably close range will work. Making arms, not using the m4 set screws as most guides recommend as the threads prevent accurate lengths. Printed mounting sockets that press fit the RC ball joint and the 6mm Carbon Epoxy rods, and allow for easily setting the length. 2 M3 Hex Cap screws in a rail with printed washers and M3 nuts, to make a vertical axle jig simulating my printers desired arm axle spacing. assembling the arms Use a good strong epoxy in between the ball joint and carbon arm, enough the inner hole of the connector boot is full and some epoxy is linking the arm rod and the ball joint junction, not just on the surface of the connector boot. It is not the structural part it holds the epoxy in place which becomes the structural part in combination with it. Alone the connector boot is not strong enough in my estimation. Epoxy should be the kind that sets in 20-30 min as 5 min is probably not enough time to get all the arms set with one epoxy mix. Adjust if needed and do one or two at a time mixing epoxy in smaller batches. Put enough epoxy in the junction to make an internal fill of just the end parts, use a toothpick or something to get it into the carbon tube a about 8-10mm coating the inside and getting thicker towards the end, put on the connector boot, make sure epoxy squished out the middle hole put some more around the rim of the middle hole connecting the epoxy on both sides through that, insert the ball joint end, mount on the extrusion jig. CAREFULLY DO THE NEXT STEPS SHOWN IN IMAGES. Twist and push or pull the carbon arm rod in the socket adapter to get the right length. Install in the jig made from an extrusion section and the M3 screws. Roll both ball joints on the ball so they are both maximum rotation in the same direction to set the ball joint alignment. I repeat: Roll both ball joints on the ball so they are both maximum rotation in the same direction to set the ball joint alignment. And again, roll them in the SAME DIRECTION. This will set the length of every arm to the exact same measurement using a physical limit of the one jig and the unified rotation of the ball joints to the same direction on the jig mounts. It makes the center axis of the ball joint on every arm set to the same position in space when the epoxy hardens. The socket made from PLA weighs 1.28gm versus an M4 set screw per the MK original BOM weighs 1.34gm, no difference to speak of, PLA socket is much easier to install, but is it stiff enough? Specs for the new part are12mm long, 10mm OD, 6mm ID, and a thicker section (4mm ID) as a spacer internally (4mm wide, adding 8mm to arm length with 1 at each end) in between the Carbon arm and RC ball joint. Socket added to DL files-09/10/2016 The MiltyKoss Effector Releasing the effector design, it is specific to the Mini Hotend. If I get requests and dimensions I can make one for J head E3D. Version for public release, has a bowden tube strain relief bracket, saves the bowden fitting wear from tube pulling sideways on higher print layers. Prototype fan duct for 25mm stock Mini Hotend also included in files. Details of the details... How and why kind of stuff. The primary part and innovation of this design is the MiltyKoss Rod Bushing Carriage (MKoss-RBC). This is a very low friction sliding carriage using common 1/4 inch rod or tubing as the bushings against the aluminum extrusion. The new design carriage uses custom frame corners to maximize the benefits of the design (but can be used with existing 1515 extrusion Mini Kossels with an adapter riser plate). The MKoss-RBC design allows for easy replacement of bushings and adheres to the 1:2 leverage ratio rule for linear motion with bushing based systems (versus rolling or recirculating bearings). i.e. the belt mounting points are near centered and 22mm offset to the 55mm spacing of the bushings on the sides of the extrusions. 22mm:55mm. Following this rule greatly reduces the stiction according to major manufacturers of similar products (IGUS etc). The MiltyKoss new Frame Top Corner (FTC)part allows adjustment and access with larger than pixie fingers to install the belt pulley. The GT2 belt can be placed closer to the extrusions, allowing a smaller offset from the bushings point of contact and a slightly larger build area. The belt gear on the stepper motor shaft will need to be adjusted moving it outward slightly. It should only be offset to the shaft end a millimeter or two and should not be an issue for shaft stability. The MKoss-FTC can be used with standard Mini Kossel Frame_Motor corners that comply with the specifications of the original Mini Kossel design. Also included is the MiltyKoss Motor Frame Corner part that allows tapping of the extrusions center bore holes and using M3 screws to secure them in tension. It has points to adjust the angle of the extrusion slightly through tightening a screw and nut on the 4 vertical faces depending on the adjustment needed. It is press fit, just slightly tight on 1515 extrusions. It is stock Mini Kossel spacing as far as the 240mm extrusion and stepper motor mounting plates so it is not needed to use the carriages, the original Mini Kossel lower corners will work. A principal concept is that some amount of easy to perform maintenance, specifically replacing bushings, is preferable if the cost is greatly reduced compared to other solutions for delta printer linear motion. Reduction of parts and simplification of alignment are also important considerations. I developed many prototypes, using a variety of methods to achieve dimensional stability and smooth linear motion. MANY prototypes, with various methods of sliding and rolling. Even recirculating carriages! They are complex and the round channel a bearing travels in is a built in source of backlash and slop in random directions. They were fun to design and print, but way to complex and expensive without solving the basic 'round ball in round channel has play and backlash or it binds' issue. Flat bushings were tried, they work ok and may be experimented with in the future. Round rods in the T Slot naturally align better allowing parts reduction/weight reduction, so they won the initial prototyping evaluations and were further developed. Early prototype of the MKoss-Rod Bushing Carriage. This one used springs to set the compression, but nuts were more effective at precise calibration (more accuracy!). The MiltyKoss AlphaOne Thingiverse upload is the most successful at balancing friction and stability. It has no backlash or slop at all even when able to slide down an extrusion under its own weight, it will impart twisting forces to the extrusion before it bends or twists so it is just enough to accomplish the needed objectives of an all aluminum frame Delta printer. Any more strength and rigidity and tightness in the bushing pressure would only benefit a stiffer framed printer. It has a small amount of friction using delrin rod as the bushing. Nylon spacers commonly available at hardware stores can be used and are effective bushings. I feel the delrin adjust to a slightly lower level of friction without any backlash because they have less compression, so they ride on the extrusion T slot edge with less surface area. Any low coefficient of friction 1/4 inch rod or thick walled tube would work for experimentation. Compression would be a negative increasing surface area though, so it should be high durometer (not squishy). PTFE may work the best, I don't have any 1/4" rod of that to try it out though. The adaptor parts to use the MKoss-Rod Bushing Carriages with the original Mini Kossel frame corners simply raises the carriage to align with standard Mini Kossel dimensions. This requires a longer spacing of the bushings for leverage ratio vs stiction issues. The mount for the belt to the carriage should be offset less than half the distance between the contact points on the extrusion, the 1:2 leverage ratio rule again. Thanks to... Thanks to a few people are in order, none of them were aware of it probably ,but they helped inspire me along the way. Huge thanks first of all to Johann Rocholl for the Original Mini Kossel design, and for getting me thinking about different kinds of carriages with his recirculating delrin ball carriage designs. Thanks to OpenBeam and ZT Automations, wouldn't have built MiltyKoss without the low cost excellent quality extrusion kit they offer, seeing that on Amazon pushed 'i should maybe build a printer' into 'wow I built an awesome printer!'. It was literally the start of it all. Thanks to Ryan Carlyle on Google groups. This person deserves some kind of award for being brilliant yet humble and always willing to offer good advice without any ego attached, just pure helpfulness and knowledge. People like him make it much easier for newcomers to enjoy 3d printing, I think every manufacturer should send him a personal thank you, he solves problems and keeps people printing on a daily basis. Thanks to Thomas Sanladerer for hosting a great 3d printing YouTube channel that I have watched since I bought my first printer. Thanks to the guys at DeltaPrntr for designing the Mini Hotend, which got me excited about building a lightweight effector Delta and started all this. And a final thanks to all the people that published sliding carriages of various types on the interweb. People sharing their ideas helped my ideas develop, and I will pay it forward :o) Updates Update #1 09/05/2016 Added MotorFrameCorner-PR2 part, better version of MFC-PR1. MFC-PR1 are the parts I am using now on the test printer, PR2 are refined from the experience and feature the ability to loosen and slide the 240mm extrusion screws to remove the motors through the tool path in the MFC-PR2 part. A long allen wrench allows stepper motor change easily without partial tool turns or offset angles. Added better pictures. Created thanks section to credit those that have helped and inspired the project. End Update #1 Update #2 09/06/2016 The first prints are starting to look great! New slicer and extruder to calibrate but the carriages are working better than expected for accuracy and stability. I will have to print a few thousand meters to get an idea of longevity, but so far so good! Pictures of prints added. Update #3 09/07/2016 Changed order of text. Added Benchy image. Wish sections could be rearranged thingiverse! Will redo entire post soon for clarity and presentation impact. Big Update #4 09/10/2016 Messed up the post trying to edit but it is all fixed now. RELEASING THE EFFECTOR AND HOTEND FAN MOUNT FILES!