Mini Inkle Loom - Double Frame and Wide Body Remix

prusaprinters

<p>Remixed from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151798">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151798</a></p> <p>Imported from thingiverse, so apologies if the post is janky. Original upload here if I forget to edit this<br/> <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4673166">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4673166</a></p> <p>As other users commented, the original could not hold any tension, especially with cotton fibers. I went ahead and modified it so it has a full frame that prevents frame flex. While I was in there, I made it a bit wider since torque was less of a concern, so 100mm m4 screws are now required through the body instead of the m4x45 screws. I also corrected a few wonky nut retainers, and repaired all errors that the original files generated when sliced in PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 alpha4. I strongly recommend using knurled thumb nuts, or at the least, wing nuts, to secure the right side frame since it will need to be removed every time the loom is warped.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>I went with 0.2mm layer heights at 40% gyroid infill, which could probably be higher, in Prusament PETG (pistachio green, and terracotta light).</p> <p>Supports are kind of a nightmare to remove in the body grooves and clamp brackets, so be generous with your support contact Z distance, and XY separation settings. If you're using the C-clamps in the original design, print body pieces 1-8. I do not recommend printing the C-clamps in PLA.</p> <p>I suggest printing everything grouped by height.</p> <h3> Post-Printing</h3> <p><strong>Modification notes</strong></p> <p>The new body section isn't mirrored, so the nut retainers face in on the right side frame. Since the right side of the frame has to be removed in order to warp the loom, I placed nuts between the tubes and the right ride frame. You can either turn the nuts so they line up with the nut retainers perfectly, or ream them out to slightly larger than the nuts like I did.</p> <p>If you want to use m5 screws through the body, I made the tubes wide enough for them, but the frame and tensioner will need to be drilled out.</p> <p>I strongly recommend having some longer full thread m3 screws on hand to pull the nuts into the recesses where needed.</p> <p><strong>Warping the frame</strong></p> <p>When warping the frame start with the tensioner screw in the middle of the slot and tighten it, since you'll need to release tension to get the right side frame lined up with the screws through the tubes. I like using two knurled thumb screws on the tensioner screw to act as a thread holder when adding heddles or changing warp colors. My apologies for forgetting to add a starter screw, but a piece of tape works just as well. Warp configuration will yield roughly between 30cm and 100cm of workable warp, depending on which tubes you warp.</p>