Minox / 8x11 development Reel (Paterson-fit)

prusaprinters

<p>I shoot and home-develop a lot of different film formats, and after releasing a few different reels for lesser used formats (110, APS, disc), I started getting approached by people wanting one of equal quality for the Minox 8x11 subminiature format. I put those requests on the back burner for a while, but eventually relented. This is the result, and I'm happy to say that it includes a couple new features that I'm proud of, and which will trickle their way back into my other designs.</p><p>Obviously this is being offered on here so that people can print one for themselves (if you do, please let me know!), but if you would like me to print one for you, I'm happy to for a reasonable price. Just email me and we can hash out the details.</p><p>MAIN FEATURES OF THIS VERSION<br>------------------------------</p><ul><li>Supports up to (and exceeding) 36 exposure carts</li><li>Twist-lock for easy separation of the reel halves, so unloading the film is simple. This also makes it a little more legit to people, since it works/feels similarly to the other (OEM) plastic reels that they are used to</li><li>TWO different film loading methods are now available in this reel.<ul><li>Push-feed loading. This is easily my preferred loading method. It is super quick, and ultra simple (once you get a hang of it). It is the method that all of my other reels use (except for the disc reel, but that's an entirely different beast altogether), and has been proven to be really popular</li><li>Twist loading. This is a feature a few people have asked for, to make it operate a little more like the reels they are used to from Jobo and Paterson</li></ul></li><li>Added a push-feed lock on inline, so the reel doesn't unnecessarily twist when using the push-feed loading method. To use the twist loading method, just twist past the lock/bump. It's super easy</li><li>Improved the &nbsp;anti-crawl-back mechanism at spiral entrance. This really isn't typically necessary, but &nbsp;because some people reported their films would sometimes wiggle/crawl out a little bit during development, I've added (and improved) this feature. This should help with those (rare) occurrences</li><li>There is a "Pa-8x11" (name of the reel... intuitive, innit?) label on the reel's center core, to make it so we don't have to rely on our memory to know which reel to use for which film. All my reels have their unique identifiers built-in like this. Great for reference, *especially* if you have multiple development systems you use (like, Jobo, Paterson, and/or Nikor/steel)</li><li>All the edges are tapered/chamfered, for better handling experience. This is basically a touch sensory, and cosmetic feature, but also helps a little with fitting the reel on the tank's core/rod<br>&nbsp;</li></ul><p>To see actual prints of my design, check out the “Makes” tab (I print basically everything I design.)</p><p><br><strong>Print Instructions</strong><br>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Printer:</strong> Any (I used a MakerFarm Pegasus 10)</p><p><strong>Rafts:</strong> None</p><p><strong>Supports:</strong> None</p><p><strong>Resolution:</strong> 0.2mm</p><p><strong>Print Speed:</strong> 40-50mm/sec (slower is better)</p><p><strong>Infill:</strong> 20%</p><p><strong>Filament:</strong> Any PLA (I used eSun)</p><p><strong>Nozzle temp:</strong> 205-220°C (Find your filament's sweet spot, mine was 210°)</p><p><strong>Bed temp:</strong> 55-65°C (Find your filament's sweet spot, mine was 60°)</p><p><strong>Notes:</strong><br>Brim: If you find your print warping/curling at all, a brim will help. I found a brim wasn't necessary, but your situation might be different</p><p><strong>Post-Printing:</strong><br>Nothing special for post-printing. Just basic removal of the brim (if used). Also, depending on your printer's tolerances, the center hole may be a perfect fit for your drum's center core rod, or it may need some minor sanding. All printers tolerances are slightly different in my experience, so adjust accordingly</p>