Molle/Textile Mount for "Larson Scanner 2" Light

Molle/Textile Mount for "Larson Scanner 2" Light

thingiverse

#Two mounts for "Larson scanner 2": I've made two mounts for "Larson Scanner 2" made by Burgduino. One for Molle mounting and one to be sown onto textile/fabric. #Why wear a Larson Scanner on you? Visibility and recognition as someone walking. The reason why it might be a good idea to use a sinusodial lightsource is that it will amplify natural movement and you will hopefully be more easily detected in traffic. Your motion will be superimposed onto the Larson movement and create a natural motion more easily recongized as a walking person, rather than a steady position light or cyclic point light. The light is probably best aligned vertically to pick up the sinusodal motion of your walkcycle? (but we do tend to rotate horizontally too so I wouldn't bet on what would be the best alternative for alignment and visibility?) For example: The light appears to travel 13 cm on the Burgduino Larson scanner, and the human vertical variation in (for example the head) in the human walkcycle is 1-9cm. That would give a bouncing point light with a range of 14-20 cm. That should be good enough to be spotted quite a bit further away than any normal human motion would... (out in the countryside, cars would typically drive in speeds of 70-90 km/h so that is quite scary in the dark... ) #What do I need? 1. A "Larson scanner 2" from Burgduino, found here: https://www.burgduino.com/product-page/larson-scanner-2, or at Tindie, https://www.tindie.com/products/soubitos/20-led-larson-scanner-ii-kitt-or-cylon-eye/ 2. 2,5 x 100 zip-ties (For molle mount) 3. Some sort of Glue. You will need to secure the glass print onto the bottom mount with glue. It has a very close fit, so you might also need to trim part here and there by hand to make it fit perfectly. It will stay on without any glue, but it wont stay if it takes a blow. #NOTES The bottom layer is a solid 0.2 mm thick and will generate a one layer print in your 3d model if it is set to "Fine". That is correct, since it seems very hard to print so many holes correctly directly onto the printsurface. The layer should be very easy to punctate with some tool. #videos https://youtu.be/u8CTEGzc0gQ https://youtu.be/o19khD0dkak

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