Motorized Drift Trike

grabcad

IV2014 format. BUILD FILES ONLY! Video: First "stable" version: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ih1gwa9gwaiyyt/DriftTest2.mp4?dl=0I wanted to post this because there is very little info on building these things and I wanted to give back some to the community. Thanks to Ben Burgstra for his GX200 model (https://grabcad.com/library/honda-gx200); it made things much easier, even though I used a HF Predator 212 (clone).This isn't version 1.0, but it's almost where I'm currently at. I expect to update this project and even refine some of the elements I've already drawn.This is not something to be used in a render. These are files I've used to figure out geometry in the garage and to build welding jigs from. Looking at the sketches on TUBE1.ipt will show the basic skeleton and jig components. These sketches are exactly what I exported to my CNC router for jigs.I started with a Huffy Slider kit from Walmart. I ended up using only the frame and sawed the back end off right at the weld (the square bolt-on bracket). The first plan was to make a bolt-on rear end. This was dismissed soon after I cut all the parts for it.I bent (with a conduit bender) all the rear frame pieces out of 3/4 rigid conduit and welded them with Mr. Crappy the wire feed welder. All the notching was assisted by a site (I can't find it now) similar to http://www.blocklayer.com/pipe-notching.aspx.The rear end is all kart pieces. I have two sets of wheels, but have only used the narrow ones. The pillow bearings you can find anywhere (ebay, USA Bearing, etc.). I cut some HDPE bushings to shrink down the giant slot size.The front end was a fork and wheel off a random NEXT bike that was being junked. I converted it to a threadless setup and used the Huffy bars and headset. It uses the old U-style brakes and they acted as if they weren't there. The bike was also very back heavy. This is about the stage where my video was recorded.I also had a problem where the clutch engagement was lower than the idle, always launching you through the turns and spinning out, never disengaging. So I disconnected the governor (I know, I don't want to hear it) and limited the revs with the bracket on the throttle linkage to about 5800. Much better. I also played around with sprocket sizes. I started with a 53 tooth and it got scary quick! I ended up with a 72 (~10" diameter!) and it's much more tame now.I was using the Huffy plastic seat for a while but it was really bendy and sloppy. So I got one of these: (http://images.johndeeregifts.com/images/products_jd/en_us/detail/AM133476_LGDT.jpg), hence the seat adapter plates. It looks like most riding mower seats have this pattern, so it would be wise to just match your seat plate to this. The Huffy seat is crap. Don't even think you're gonna stick with it.So then, the front end... The brakes were useless and the wheel was slightly bent. I wasn't going to spend money on fixing a junk wheel, and I NEEDED brakes. So after talking to the local bike-store-guy, I started out on finding out how to put a brake disc on a 20" wheel. Properly. I stumbled across the Mongoose Massif and it's massive front wheel (http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/fat-bikes/874816d1394128393-massif-20-fatbike-img_5186.jpg). This is also designed to use disc brakes. I didn't want to buy the whole bike for $200 and then throw/sell the other 3/4 of it, so I took the less economical yet less wasteful route of buying the forks and wheel from Mongoose for about $120. It normally comes with mech disc brakes, but there are many complaints about them. I will be upgradng to a Shimano Disc brake setup soon. It also added a little more weight up front, which I desperately needed.I can no longer use axle pegs on this setup, so the next step will be welding some "highway" pegs on to the frame. I'll update the model when I get there.* UPDATE - Highway pegs weldedThe pegs have been bent and welded. I would recommend not going the route that I did. It was tricky to place them and I had to build a funky jig out of wood to center and hold them for welding. You would be much better off if you could take the off the frame straight somehow. I also added a Shimano hydraulic brake setup. It is effective but way overkill. I went with the largest disc (209mm I think) and I could've easily gotten away with the smallest disc. And... color change! Pics added.* UPDATE - Pegs failedThe way I welded the highway pegs to the frame failed. During use, the pegs actually bounce in and out very rapidly and caused the frame to fatigue right outside the welds. Right now I have the frame stripped (again) and a professional TIG welder friend is repairing it for me (way beyond my equipment and expertise). I am adding a large web to tie the two bars together horizontally and to the frame, and a small gusset vertically between the web and the frame. I'll update everything and take pics when I get it back. FYI, it took many drifting days for this to fail. I didn't even notice how much they were flexing until I saw a buddy riding it.I finally found a good way to mount the tires (pipes). They would always scoot around on the tires or get cock-eyed and run rough. What I do now is (1) put the cut pipe open-part-down on the driveway, (2) spray 3M Super 77 on the inside, (3) clean the rubber tire with gas, (4) spray rubber tire with 77, and (5) put 'em together before they tack up up too much and inflate to about 35-40 PSI. When a pipe breaks you can still peel them off and then clean the rubber again with gas or whatever solvent you have on hand. I have yet to try HDPE pipes, but I may in the near future.* UPDATE - Fixed and shored up highway pegsI got the frame back from the welder today and it looks great. See pics, models have been updated. The models don't reflect the lower vertical gusset because it had to be ground to fit. I still have to clean everything up and repaint, but it should be back on the road soon.