MPSM v3/Pro Manual Bed Leveling Hack + Test files

MPSM v3/Pro Manual Bed Leveling Hack + Test files

cults3d

Not satisfied after this try: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623313 Inspired by what I made for the v2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4626595 This is the final design I use on my machines, with good result. You can now replace the sensor with a cheap SN04 if your is broken/missing. Bye bye crappy auto-leveling! Update: Tutorial for MBL in preparation Hardware you need: 3x M3x10mm bolts 1x M3x12mm bolt* 8x M3 nuts 4x M3x6mm female to female thread brass standoff pillar This is the special part that convert the male feet of the aluminium bed. Update: M3 Threaded inserts for plastic can be a good alternative! M3 washers (recommanded), under the bed +/-over the bed, for a wider and more stable contact with base plate. *12mm bolt at ORIGIN. Jam it in place. This give a 2mm play for the 3 other corners to set the level. **Remove the 3 nuts under the heating plate, as final design is 2-3mm higher. I pointlessly tried to keep them on, with 5mm spacer and 1mm conductive pad... I wasted my time, don't. --- Manual Bed Leveling --- You can look-up your values with m503. Clear mesh with following commands: M421 x0y0 z0; (null corner 1) M421 x0y1 z0; (null corner 2) M421 x1y0 z0; (null corner 3) M421 x1y1 z0; (null corner 4) G500; (save your values) G28; (home, done) "Bed level correction" or "Tune" set ORIGIN (and the entire print, which you will fine tune). It sets the distance between a flat bed and your nozzle. This is called "z offset" in the firmware. I know offset is right when the priming line sticks well. Set speed at 0.1 give you more time for live leveling. Use gcode or console (pronterface) to home then move at G0 X10Y10Z0, then move 100mm in each direction to roughly level each corner with a post-it (0,1mm). Then I let the print go and level the other corners during live printing.

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