MyRCCar 1/10 MTC Rigid Axles: 4 different axle wides, 8 different CVDs, wheelbases from 290 to 330mm and universal shafts

thingiverse

After listening to the crowd I had to do this last work about RC car styles. When I designed [MTC Chassis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942931) I knew I wanted to be able to build an "hybrid", a rc car with independent suspension in the front and rigid axle in the back, but I have gone a little more far... Now you can reuse some of the original MTC Chassis printed parts to build a Monster Truck / Crawler with rigid axles, 4 link suspension system and universal shafts, I think they call it like that to double cardan variable length transmissions. **Hey! No video by now :( Anyway suscribe or visit my [Youtube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoferANebmE&list=PLcLMZYx-MUSk63bc5_w4uvcIJXNg8tXqJ) to see previous videos from the MTC Chassis and the Pickup** I'm a little tired right now to write up very specific instructions, maybe by now this publication is just for "experts" like those who can recieve instructions directly from the shapes of the design and logic patterns. ###The Axles: As you can see there are 3 different center parts for the axles. This will give you 3 different wides for your axles... You just have to choose. But there is also a wider one using the long axle and the "long C-Hubs" or "long rear fixed blocks". You can use 4 different CVDs with the long axle plus 2 more with the long c-hubs You can use 2 different CVD combinations with the medium axle You can use 2 different CVDs with the small axle ###The Steering: There are 2 different C-Hubs, the long one is only for HSP 108015 and HSP 188015 There are 4 different Steering Blocks, the same types than in all MyRCCar publications There are 6 different Rear Fixed Blocks, 2 of them longer for HSP 108015 and HSP 188015 There are 4 different steering plates or "bars", one for each axle width. XL, L, M and S ###The links: This links are Print in Place ball joint articulated. I use to print with -0.02 horizontal expansion to get the correct results, this time i printed them with -0.03 to be sure i could unlock them. I have created some fixed length links and other parts to build variable length links. This links have to adapt to the chosen wheelbase, from 145mm PWB to 165mm PWB. But also they have to adapt to the different axle types, the long, the medium and the short one. There are also 2 possibilities to assemble the bottom links in the long axle, you can mount them in the outer holders of the axle or the inner ones. But resuming, using the variable length ones, wich are available in 2 lengths and for M3 or M4 screws, you will be able to have any of the needed measures. Use the drawings to choose the right ones for your wheelbase and axle width from the fixed length ones or print 12 adjustable long heads for M3 or M4 as you preffer, and 4 adjustable short heads. Use M3x50 or M4x50 for the long ones and M3x40 or M4x40 for the short ones. ###The Universal Shafts: If you have the typical sourced parts for the MyRCCar projects, as 02024 with pinion and universal 1/10 vase for the F/R diffs, and a 1/8 center diff as the Trooper or the SST ones, then you can use this transmission. There are 4 types of forks, they are: - Fork1, for 1/8 diff. This one goes into the 12mm output vase of the center diff and uses a M3x18mm Countersunk screw to act as torque transmitter and also to fix the fork to the vase - Fork2, connected with the Fork1 with the 11mm cube and 3mm piano wire portions, one 3x18mm piano wire part and two 3x7mm parts. I originally designed it to use M3x8 grub screws but they get out of place after some play, so better piano wire and loctite them. This fork also connects with the 12mm outer axle. - Fork3 is the one to mount on the 1/10 input vase of F/R diffs. Use a M4x5 grub screw to fix the Fork to the vase - Fork4 connects with Fork3 with same method than F1 with F2, and with the 10mm inner axle. Use M3x16 countersunk screws to fix the inner and outer axles to F2 and F4. Take a look to the names of the different inner and outer axles of the universal shaft to have a clue about wich ones you need for your wheelbase and riding height! ###The fake SST Fixed Differential: Just two parts wich must be joined with 2 M3x8mm countersunk screws. Then use the normal adaptors and 12x18x4 bearings for your SST diff and mount the fake fixed diff. into the gearbox. ####ATTENTION: The position of the motor is very important, and I have designed it to work with the gearbox and 14T pinion for the motor attaking a 28T gear. If this parameters changes then the motor can touch the universal shaft or the lower links, the space is very important in this build! ###Other Things: - I created a Battery Box for the standard top cover. I mounted it in the back but can be mounted in the front part too. - You must use the front platform inverted in vertical and front/back in combination with links_FrontPlatformHolder. You don't need rear platform - You can put ESC and reciever over front platform if you mount the Battery Box in the back Please analyze the info here and in the photos and drawings, the same than in previous [MyRCCar projects](https://www.thingiverse.com/dlb5/designs) and [MyRCCar Group](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/myrccar) to solve great part of your doubts.