Number 98 Powder Baffle for MEC Reloader

thingiverse

Spring-loaded Powder Baffle to help improve repeatability of powder dispense and also reduce powder leakage on the charge bar on the MEC reloader. It's designed in three pieces plus the spring. The key feature of the design is that you can unscrew the upper and lower body sections so you change out the spring and slider if you want, and you can clean it out when it gets grungy. #### Components: - **Upper body**: print 1 (Print version "Upper Body.STL" if you want the baffle included. Print "Upper Body Hollow.STL" if you don't want the baffle, and just a straight open pipe. - **Lower body**: print 1 - **Slider**: print 1 (Choose the slider length that you prefer, or print the longest one and sand it down. The 4.5 mm length was about right for my tester's machine.) - **Spring**: 22 mm outer diameter, 10mm length, 1.4mm wire diameter. I bought this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/A2-304-Stainless-Steel-Compression-Spring-Wire-Dia-1-4mm-OD-10-11-12-13-22mm/183987314427?var=691676526105&hash=item2ad67f9efb:g:QcQAAOSwd9hdnCla) #### Notes: 1. Print the components in the orientation as shown on the image. 2. I printed using 0.2mm layer height to easily print the chamfers. 3. If the slider doesn't run smooth, sand some of the components to get rid of the printing grooves to make it work well. 4. There are several different lengths of the slider. The 4.5mm (4p5mm filename) was about right for my accomplice's setup. Or, just print the longest one and sand it until it works for you. 5. The spring I used was 22mm outer diameter and 10mm long. It's a little on the stiff side for my liking but it is reported to work well. Or just roll your own so you don't have to be patient for a package of springs to be delivered. Maybe you can find a different spring that works for you, let me know if you find a good one and the source. 6. The upper body has a long overhang for the baffle wedge on the inside of the tube. If this overhang prints too droopy, you may be able to improve it by tuning your nozzle temperature and cooling fan speed. Or you may probably cut off any droopy strings and use it anyway. Let me know if you have any trouble with it or if you have some ideas on adjustments. I made several iterations with my accomplice on testing the sliding nozzle dimensions to get it to operate properly. Also the operation may depend upon how strong your spring is and the fit of your powder bushings and charge bar. I've printed in ABS (see the yellow model in the photo) or in PLA. Both seem to work just fine mechanically but my buddy prefers the ABS version (I suspect due to the cool yellow color). Keep me posted if you get it to work or if you have any questions about it. If it's a disaster for you, then please chalk it up to a situation that "builds character" or as a "learning experience". License is currently defined as Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives. Talk to me if that's an issue for ya.