Oculus Touch Modular Gun Rig [OcToMoGuRi]

thingiverse

{Updated 02.14.2017 -- see Custom Section for notes} The OcToMoGuRi is a severely overly-engineered solution to a simple problem. Since the dawn of Touch mankind has desired to tie their hands to sticks to shoot imaginary steel blow-darts at each other. Now, finally, this future is here. All kidding aside, I decided to start working on a modular gun rig that just makes sense for the 3D printing community. The Oculus Touch VR hand tracking system in particular has been lacking in cheap, effective designs so I started my focus there. Technically there's nothing stopping anyone from making a compatible screw-bar mount for other systems, and I may do so myself in the future. Of note, this project is open for development in a non-commercial sense; I always think printed designs sound remain free rather than up-charged for online sale. The main screw-bar and thumb screws are the basis of this project. The threads are sturdy M20x2.5 M-tooth ANSI style, and if you're lucky enough to use metric you may even find the same components in a local hardware store for metal components. This specific thread type makes for a lot of friction fitting, such that with plastic at least, the thumb screws can be counter-tightened to either side of an attachment and it will hold damn near forever. Attachments should fit a 20mm tall by 12.25mm wide (and in my case 50mm long) slot. The fit can be a bit snug if you like, as you can move the parts around with the assistance of thumb screws if needed. The tighter, the sturdier. Just don't go so tight that you strip the threads from the screw-bar. For reference, I've used 3mm thickness for the walls of my attachment sliders and seen zero flex or failures so far since they were mostly solid. This seems like the magic starting point. The Oculus Touch components are printed a tad thinner where possible to reduce the occlusion of the controller tracking rings. I've tried even a tad thicker and seen noticeably worse results, and thinner seems to be too weak without printing solid plastic. You can try to tweak the models to fit your needs, but I think I found a good balance here. However this complicates printing by design, so please check the print and post sections for details. I'd love to hear feedback so I can tweak my design or add extra components. Currently planned is an RIS rail block for fitting custom stocks and additional grips. I'd love to hear about more ideas. Have fun! Print Settings Printer Brand: Wanhao Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: Variable 10-20% Notes: Note that I use Simplify 3D, so some terminology may not match your own software of choice. I'll try to stay general. Also note that this print relies on a mid-large format printer without modifying models, but splitting the models is very, very acceptable in terms of end-quality and strength. Materials: I designed this print to use ABS, as it has a bit of flex and can stand accidental wall-smashes. As such, the STL files are sized for a pretty typical 1.25% shrinkage. This shouldn't affect the end results for other materials, but will affect the dimensions should you design your own parts. Screw-Bar: Print as many as needed to your desired length, four recommended. For the full layout you will likely need four of these; without the butt stock you only need three, and for compact SMG sizing you can even barely get away with two. Print this bad boy vertically, nub screw end pointing upward. 0.2mm height works perfectly for a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No supports should be needed. I recommend using three outer walls, three floors, and three ceilings for the model to strengthen threads. The outer walls specifically help with layer-toLayer adhesion of the screw threads. Infill can be low (10-15%) for this part, but as there's not much time added and this part is under the most stress, I recommend 20% or more for this one. If you have the ability to do multiple processes like in Simplify3D, I wholly recommend printing the lowest 12mm and the upper 12mm (143mm and up) so they fill completely solid. With a lot of materials the male and female screw bits can print too thick and may crush each other, breaking them free. Printing solid prevents breakage. This should only add about 40-50 minutes to each print. Thumb Screw: Two needed per attachment. Follow the same instructions for the Screw-Bar, only you'll need to print two of these per component you plan on adding to the rail. If printing a bunch with ABS, you may want to keep the bed temperature lower to prevent warping since these are thin. Left/Right Gantry: Two needed, one for each hand. These parts are similar, but slightly different for exact fit. Mirror this part on any axis to get a left and right version. Technically you can print either gantry and the cups will still fit, just off center. Again, 0.2mm height works fine for this part. Use supports to aid the lower curves, though they print mostly fine without. These are designed to print on a whole 200x200mm bed, taking up about 185x160mm to be precise. Infill can be about 15% without any noticable hit, suposing you use three outer walls as well. In this case the outer walls provide a tremendous amount of strength, especially in the corners. If you use a smaller printer, slice up this part into the four corners and avoud slicing the angled section and you should be fine from a structural standpoint. Left/Right Handle Cups: One needed per gantry. These should aim to be as solid as possible. I printed with four outer walls thickness and 30% infill to connect the inner and outer walls, and this worked well. Realistically though, three walls thickness and 20% infill (of a smaller pattern, for more contact points) should do just fine and may allow easier insertion and removal of your Touch controllers by way of a slight flex. If your STL file loads at an angle, rotate the model to print with the open side straight up; Mine load in requiring a -60 degree X-axis rotation, for example. Supports are not required but make for a smoother graded curve on the outside, which may make for easier gripping of the cup. Sliding Brackets: One needed per attachment. Print these with an open side facing up. They can print with low infill but should have thicker than normal walls. 15% infill and three walls thickness worked alright, but I would probably go 10% and four walls for a sturdier build next time. The fit is what matters most here, as the part doesn't truly allow for flex in the first place by design. Stock Body: This should print very much like the gantries. If splitting to fot on a smaller printbed, I recommend slicing it about halfway down the long edge to allow for solid glue points and minimal reduction in structure. Stock Butt Plate: This is intended to print with the flat end touching the build plate. This part requires at least 15% infill in my testing or else the curves warp or shift while building. Effectively the infill works as a surface for the near-constant ceiling printing of the curved top. Wall thickness isn't much of a concern here as the whole part is cylindrical in shape and very strong. Post-Printing Assembly This design was created with the intent of gluing components together. If printing with ABS as recommended, a dab of acetone to each connecting surface allows the parts to fuse into solid plastic. The same applies technically to PET and PETG, though I haven't tried this myself. If using PLA, use MEK or methyl acetate if you can find it. If you can't, you can try heat-welding the parts or good old-fashioned super glue. If choosing to use actual glue, I cannot recommend sanding the connecting surfaces rough and then using water-activated Gorilla Glue hardly enough-- the hold will be about as strong as ABS with acetone welding. Screw-bars assemble exactly with the smaller screws. For added strength I highly recommend loading the threads with either thread locking glue or the solvent for your plastic (acetone in the case of ABS). This will allow the parts to form one solid bar. Once all attachments are assembled, screw a thumb screw onto the rail. Move it to the desired location, then slide on the attachment. Follow up with another thumb screw. Tighten the screws against both sides of the attachment until snug enough that friction holds them in place, but not so hard that you bust the threads. If you do, the thumb screws were designed as a cheap point of failure so they would be easy to replace. Gluing/welding the thumb screws should not be necessary, and is optional. I recommend keeping the front hand at the least unglued so that you can adjust as needed per gun used, as this becomes important in games like Onward where LMGs require longer grip stances. And that's it! Enjoy your new Oculus Touch Modular Gun Rig! How I Designed This This was my second project using Autodesk Fusion 360. The initial protytype was, believe it or not, built in Microsoft 3D Builder which comes with Windows 10. After issued with that design (which held the parts from below and blocked reloading animations), I decided to try out Fusion 360 since it's been getting good press. I'll upload the design file soon for everyone to use once I've cleaned up some of the various small adjustments in the build history. Custom Section Valentine's Update [02.14.2017]: As a way to say "I love you guys!" I've added a few more parts. There is now an Extension component that can be glued or welded to the top (or side if you so wish) of any of the 5cm long brackets. This part allows the use of an additional Screw-Bar and Thumbscrews to square the entire frame as well as provide offset triangular absorption of torque forces on the attachments. While not necessary if printed properly, this Extension piece does provide much more strength than really ever required for the Screw-Bars and takes something slightly within breakage margins and gives it some buffer space. You can also technically add more Extensions infinitely until you are satisfied with the overkill. For convenience and strength I've added DoubleGantryBracket and DoubleStockBracket parts as well. If you don't have the strongest of glues or can't weld your material with solvents, I would recommend this option. Only one day old and already there's improvements! Have fun, ladies and gents.