Omega MSX Computer Case

Omega MSX Computer Case

thingiverse

Omega MSX Computer Case I recently came across the Omega project on github: https://github.com/skiselev/omega It's an awesome recreation of the MSX2+ standard as a PCB and keyboard mechanism using 'proper' components you can build for yourself. You'll end up with a real computer to own and enjoy, and have a lot of fun building it along the way. The designer has even come up with an acrylic case to cut out and house your creation. But wouldn't it be nice to have a 'proper' case? There are indeed a couple of such designs already to be found here on Thingyverse, but in the interests of "more is better" I thought I'd throw my hat in to the ring. A compact original design that gives off what I hope are sufficient retro vibes while being very much it's own thing. It accommodates the system boards as designed without any need for flying leads or modifications. I have also tried to build in easy customisation options, and included the original 3D files in several formats to allow for endless fiddling if so desired. As a baseline there are also .stl files ready for slicing and printing for the two primary case designs I included: Omega_MSX_Case: One cartridge slot on top, with optional cover, and a port around the back for second cartridge slot or expansion header. Omega_MSX_Alts: Two cartridge slots on top, with optional covers. Consequently the expansion opening round the back is blocked off. Within the various files I've also included the option to relocate the joyports should front mounting as per the original design not be desired. Go in to the original 3D files, remove the joyport wells, add the blanking pieces, and then use the joyport cut-out to cut out holes where you would like them to be - by default the cut-outs are located to the left side of the case. Of course relocated joyports will require flying leads from the PCB. Printing Tips: I have NOT AS YET made any attempt to print these parts myself! Given their size this will be a long old print with a lot of wasted plastic if it goes wrong. I expect no significant issues but consider this a fair warning - you may be the first to try this print! As you probably don't have a printer large enough to produce the main parts in one go. Your best options will be to: -Use your slicer to cut the top and bottom parts in half, front to back, and print as four separate pieces. When doing so ABS would be the obvious filament as the parts can be permanently welded with acetone. Regrettably much refinishing will be needed if you don't want the result to look like garbage. -Have the parts professionally printed. I know, but they will look much better as a result and bad prints will be their problem. I've tried to give some attention to the vagaries of FDM printing when coming up with this design, so there shouldn't be any real show-stoppers. Just remember to pay attention to your supports where needed, and ticking that 'fuzzy' option in your slicer should result in a nice 'retro computer surface texture'. But test the settings before plunging in with your main print. If you want a similar texture for the top of the keyboard (it's best printed face down) I would suggest taking a small roller and some PVA glue to your print bed and letting it dry before printing. This print is going to take a devil of a long time no matter what so there really is no point in skimping on the quality options or the infill, especially as the parts are structural. Just remember lower detail parts tend to be stronger so try to find a happy balance. Both main parts will need printing with support. As the keyboard top should be printed face down but the rear section will not be flat I'd advise using a support layout that will leave behind some pleasing stipes on the case top if you don't intend to sand entirely flat. Have fun!

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