OSOYOO 5inch DSI Touch Screen Mount for Ender 3/Pro

thingiverse

My old Touch Screen design was not working very well with OctoDash as it works best with a high refresh rate and at least a 5 inch screen. So I picked up this touch screen and made a mount for it. Since this LCD only needs 1 ribbon cable I decided to make a mount just for the LCD. Then you can mount a Raspberry Pi 3/4 anywhere you want as long as you can feed this LCD the ribbon cable it needs. It also requires no drivers and this mount doesn't require you to rotate the display. It is 100% plug and play. Here is a link to my modified Pi3/4 case with a v slot mount I am using You need at least a 150mm Ribbon cable for this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4536100 F3Z Files Included. Links: OctoDash https://github.com/UnchartedBull/OctoDash OctoPi https://octoprint.org/download/ Malolo's Pi 3 Cases https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3719217 Malolo's Pi 4 Cases https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723561 BOM: Here comes the catch. The Touch Screen comes with a 100mm ribbon cable which won't get you much than the raspberry pi sitting directly under the connector on the LCD. This Touch Screen needs a Type A ribbon cable. All the Raspberry Pi Ribbon Cables are Type B. That means the exposed connectors on one side are exposed on the same side on the other end of the cable. Instead of it being reversed on a Type B. While Type A FFC Ribbon Cables are not rare the 15 pin ones with 1mm pitch are for some reason. I could only find them on Mouser and Digi-Key. Even then the selection is small. I couldn't even find any longer than 100mm on AliExpress. I have provided links to the selections they provide. They are really expensive for a ribbon cable but it is what it is. If you can't order from one of those two places what you are looking for is a 15 pin, 1mm pitch (Distance between pins), FFC Jumper Cable, with same side connectors. I bought and verified 3 Mouser part numbers listed below that work. 1x OSOYOO 5 Inch DSI Touch Sceen 5x M2x8mm Hex Socket Head Cap Screws 5x M2 Nuts (Possibly Optional) 1x FFC Jumper Cable with Same Side Connectors at whatever length you require. LCD comes with 100mm OSOYOO 5 Inch DSI Touch Sceen https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KKB5YS9/ VIGRUE M2-M3-M4-1080PCS Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KBVZVV/ Digi-Key Type A Ribbon Cables https://www.digikey.in/products/en/cable-assemblies/flat-flex-ribbon-jumpers-cables/457?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&sf=0&FV=89%7C6219%2C258%7C413867%2Cii15%7C2166%2C-8%7C457&quantity=&ColumnSort=-77&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25 Mouser Type A Ribbon Cables https://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/FFC-FPC-Jumper-Cables/_/N-ad930?P=1ybxhzpZ1z0wxg4Z1yzi0xp 152mm - Perfect for my linked case and the Pi sitting directly under the LCD https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/710-686615152001 203mm https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-15039-0847 254mm https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-15039-0851 Don't remove the parts from the print bed until it has reached close to room temperature. This makes sure the parts come off perfectly flat. This is especially recommended on LCD Front part as it has a 0.4 mm thick layer that covers the LCD. LCD Front should have 4 Walls instead of 3. So that the diagonal piece sticking off the print bed has 100% infill to make it as strong as it needs to be and so that the print head moves straight across it when printing. This makes it look nicer as well as something this thin will probably have infill marks on the outer walls. Install Notes -Run a M2 Screw through all the holes to break the bridging. -Press in the 5x M2 Nuts with a pair of needle nose pliers (preferably angled). I made the screw holes on LCD Front small enough you way be able to get away without the nuts if you want. It seemed to be strong enough in testing without nuts. -Install the LCD into the LCD Front part. -Place the LCD Back part on. -Screw in the 5x M2x8mm screws till they are snug (not tight). -Install the ribbon cable by using a small screwdriver or Allen key to assist you. The exposed contacts should face down toward the PCB. It is easy once you have done it the first time. -Place the assembly on the Ender 3/Pro and start both screws but don't tighten yet. -Press down firmly on the area below the LCD but just above the mounting screws so that the cut away on the back is held against the aluminum extrusion. -Then tighten the top then bottom screw while holding it down. -The LCD mount should be just as solid as the stock metal one on the other side and not flex when you tap the LCD.